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4 hours ago, Careless said:

speeeeeeeeeedin' right along.

 

question: did you entertain using a battery hold down bar as a ground connection rather than a wire that exits the box? would be a neat idea, i think.

Hmmmm,  I have always believed (taught decades ago in auto class) that the ground wire should be the same thickness as the Positive, in this case no# 2 cable and that is grounded into a 7/16x20 seat belt anchor nut. If I were to ground that #2 cable to a  little M6x1 bolt on the hold down bar, well it just wouldn't feel right, doesn't seem like there would be enough surface area. I know it would work but I'm thinking worst case scenario, doing 150mph with high beams on wipers on fast, stereo blarring, blower on full while I lean on the horn, happens all the time:rolleyes:



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26 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Hmmmm,  I have always believed (taught decades ago in auto class) that the ground wire should be the same thickness as the Positive, in this case no# 2 cable and that is grounded into a 7/16x20 seat belt anchor nut. If I were to ground that #2 cable to a  little M6x1 bolt on the hold down bar, well it just wouldn't feel right, doesn't seem like there would be enough surface area. I know it would work but I'm thinking worst case scenario, doing 150mph with high beams on wipers on fast, stereo blarring, blower on full while I lean on the horn, happens all the time:rolleyes:

simple fix. 3/16 steel plate with a provision for the battery lug, and a way to secure it into the battery box with M8 bolts on either side, clamps down on the battery and the neg post with more than 16mm of surface area for grounding.

On 5/5/2017 at 6:36 AM, Namerow said:

Where have the mice been living while you've been remodeling their home?

Hopefully one of my three cats got them.

Made some good progress today, finished installing the front suspension so the car can come off the jack stands now and back on to wheels, got the engine bay wiring harness in, door glass and quarter windows in and started playing around with the leather trans tunnel cover, also almost finished the firewall insulation. Starting to get more comfortable with contact cement and the tack off times.

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Thanks Blue,

 

8 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Boy I would sure love to be there the day that thing hit the road for the very first time!!

Well thank you Bruce I appreciate the offer, I'll give you a couple of days notice,:rolleyes: I will certainly need some help trouble shooting all the gremlins and bugs that are sure to show up.

Re your leather gloss issue for the door panel material, why not just try a coat of paste wax (or, if it makes you feel better, clear shoe polish)?

Alternatively, check to see whether SEM (or a competitor) offers a satin finish clear for use with vinyl and leather.  Suggest you have a look at 'Parasol' (Toronto).  They will custom-mix and ship to your door.  I had very good results with their products.

10 hours ago, Namerow said:

Re your leather gloss issue for the door panel material, why not just try a coat of paste wax (or, if it makes you feel better, clear shoe polish)?

Your right John, the door doesn't really need to be much darker, I'll bet just some more shine will give it a darker appearance. Can't say I like the idea of black shoe polish right next to where my wife will sit with some favorite white top that will be ruined and I'll never hear the end of it.

Got home early today so I thought I would get everything prepped for installing the engine later on this week but as it turned out I had just enough time to get it in, not a minute too late, I'm getting too old to be dropping engines in by myself. I'm running out jam.

Thought I would take a pic of all this new hardware cause I aint going to see it again once it's in the engine bay,

DSCN1472.JPGrear end almost finished, just have to fit the exhaust system now,

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I got the header heat shields in, the D/S side rail vinyl done and installed some of the pretty bits in the engine bay.

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