need info on V8 swap

[ZHeadV8]

My Chevy is running 420 BHP and 418 ft lbs of torque - bought brand new as a crate engine - it is the Edelbrock Performer package. Not in the car yet but soon ...........

[waynekarnes]

there is a guy selling the jtr mounts on e bay ... he apparently owns a machine shop and says he can make most anything ...

the JTR kit is the way to go ... engine sets back and low. JTR also sells the modified camaro free flowing 2 core radiator. use the ford taurus 2 spd electric fan with it.

a 4 or 5 speed trans is more fun, but an automatic is an easier install and is less hard on the drive train.

you can spend big bucks on a 3.1 over bored 6, with lots of speed equipment on it, get 300 horses of undriveable horsepower ... or

spend less on the conversion kit and a 300 horse chevy ... be docile as the family mini van, yet put you back in the seat, when you stand on the loud pedal.

you might also want to put a turbo zx engine in there ... that would keep the straight 6 .. add an intercooler and electronics ... that would be a fun reliable combination.

for the excitement of doing it ... there are a few 300zx V6 engine swaps out there ...

seems to me, the same amount of work as the chevy or the ford V8 ...

again as suggested earlier ... hybridz.org great place for any modified z car ...

mine is a 72 with a scarab z kit ... supposedly built in 1977 ... chevy 350 and vette 4 speed ... 200R rearend out of a 280z with 280z half shafts ... toyota fourrunner calipers on front ... rear disc kit waiting in the garage ...

due to a bit of bad luck, z is stripped ( was evicted from the body shop, by the new owner of the body shop ... shop was sold before my car was finished ) and under a tarp in the driveway .

what ever you decide .. try not to bite off more than you can chew ...

be sure you have tools and friends willing to lend a hand, neighbors that don't mind you wrenching into the wee hours, and more money than you thought you needed.

as far as getting the head bolt out ... you'll need to change the temp of the block, get it to expand, while keeping the bolt from expanding. liquid nitrogen comes to mind ...

missed your post ... if some of the bolt is sticking out, thread two nuts onto it, with two wrenches, tighten one and loosen the other so they bind on one another ... take a small propane torch, heat the bolt, nut cherry red, but good and hot ... rap straight down on the bolt with a small hammer, as if knocking on a wooden door. while still warm, take a wrench, on the lower nut and see if you can't get the bolt to spin out of the block.

if no threads sticking out ... and the bolt is broken well below the surface of the block ...

set up a jig, to guide your drill or steady hand if you dare ... use a metal bit, drill out the center of the bolt, then use a tap, thread the bolt, put a nut on a bolt that fits the threads you tapped, run the nut up to the head of the new bolt. lightly paint some JB Weld onto the new bolt,and insert into the threaded hole .. bottom out the new bolt into the one stuck in the head ... put a few drops of JB Weld on the block ( clean it well ) careful, you don't want it getting on the stuck bolt ... run the nut on the new bolt down into the JB Weld, so it gets "welded" to the block. let it dry, when you are sure the nut is secure, use a wrench to turn the new bolt ... if all goes well, the nut should hold, the nut should hold and the head bolt should at least break free, allowing you to either back it out or use an EZ out.

i have also done this bungering up the threads on the new bolt ... leave the 1st 3 threads alone, use a file or hammer ... mess the threads up a bit on the new bolt ... run it in with a wrench .. it'll bind a little, but the good threads should pull it in. bottom it out ... with any luck, the bungered threads will cause it to bind. now heat the new bolt, it'll transfer to the stuck bolt ...

while still warm, turn the new bolt as if removing it .. the stuck bolt should break it's grip.

one more trick is to use a bit that is a slightly smaller to the diameter of the original hole, and cutting oil, run a tap down, this will groove the sides of the bolt ... now ... using a slightly larger bit ... as close to the size of the bolt hole as you dare go ... drill into the bolt, this time only go down about an inch .. use a tap that is the same size and thread pitch as the hole in the block, run that into the hole ... with luck, and cutting oil, the previous tap left the bolt a hollow tube, and this tap, will cause that tube to break up as you thread this tap in.

or ...

call an automotive machine shop or drop by ... tell em you are planning on rebuilding your engine, explain about the head bolt, ask if they can suggest a way to remove it ...

few years back, a guy towed his car to the machine shop to have a broken bolt removed.

if you don't want to remove the engine, take it to the machine shop, taking the whole car may be your option.

[Aussie260z]

Does the JTR engine set back plates work on Right-Hand drive cars?

[Bambikiller240]

I don't know, but below are the contact info for them. Perhaps they know.

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/

JTR@JagsThatRun.com

[Aussie260z]

Already did that, the bloke there said he had no experience with his engine fitting kit working with Right-Hand-Drive Zeds

Some folks on Hybridz though the JTR kit might work if you switched the engine set back plates over (LH to RH and RH to LH) but no one was certain...........

[zed240au]

the jtr kit would work on rhd car have the book and even cut all the mounts but decided to go with a later motor myself

the jtr way is really so simply

Mick