Replacing heater hoses

[bobc]

Carl, if you need a heater core, let me know. I think I may have one.

Bob

[Willoughby Z]

Replace the heater core??? Where do you find one? I looked everywhere I could think of about six months ago - no one had any at that point. Motorsports shows one - for like $300.00 - but did not have any to actually sell.

FWIW,

Carl B.

http://www.marketworks.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxeSFshop.aspx?sfid=75198&c=421891&search_text=&srch=586539657&page=2

[Carl Beck]

http://www.marketworks.com/storefrontprofiles/deluxeSFshop.aspx?sfid=75198&c=421891&search_text=&srch=586539657&page=2

THANK-YOU, THANK-YOU, THANK-YOU Kris!! How you found that I do not know. According to the salesman there it is actually their web site mostly for company use - they don't promote it in their advertising!! Anyway I have two on the way!! At $109.00 they are very reasonably priced as well...

Glad I delayed putting the heater back together this week :-)

FWIW,

Carl B.

[dltalfa]

THANKS GUYS!!! I ended up removing the easiest hose, (which wasn't all that easy),..and then I removed the control valve as suggested and pulled the other hose out thorugh the interior cabin,..then removed it from the valve.

It took me much longer than I had expected,..but I now have all new braided hoses on my car. It was worth it once I saw the finished product.

[AZ-240z]

Jim, is it just me, or are your heater hoses going throught the firewall grommets reversed? They both end up at the correct hookups, but, on my car, the inlet hose goes through the bottom firewall grommet and the outlet hose goes through the top grommet.

Dan

[simmonsviolet]

Hello.

You can remove the hose and carefully scrape the fittings clean, then apply a small amount of gasket sealer to the fittings to assure a tight seal with your new hose. Apply sealer to the fitting only this will help avoid any excess from possibly clogging the hose or a water channel in the block. Thanks..

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[w3wilkes]

On ‎5‎/‎13‎/‎2012 at 6:51 PM, Pat Carr said:

I disconnected the heater control cable from the valve, removed the more accessible hose from the valve, disconnected both hoses from the engine, and removed the valve and second hose together. This way I was able to easily remove the second hose from the valve out of the car. I cleaned the valve and replaced the second hose, then reversed the process. There was no way I was getting that second hose clamp loose in that small space (I have the dealer installed AC).

I know this is an old thread, but Pat, you deserve a BIG THANK YOU! After 46 years I had one of my heater hoses start leaking where it attached to the Y thing by the reducer hose on the engine side of the block, when I pulled the hose off it looked like it was disintegrating. The reducer and the other heater hose that connects to the block looked like they would probably fail in the not to distant future too. I also have original dealer installed A/C and thought I'd started an impossible task. Finding your approach of removing the control valve made the removal doable. After getting the 1st hose and transfer hose off my biggest issue was that the original factory installer faced the screw on the second heater hose clamp straight up (must have been a mean joke) so I ended up having to use wire cutters to get that clamp off. I'll be switching to regular worm gear clamps so I can use a nut driver with an extension on the new clamps. All new heater hoses, reducer and transfer hose are on the way. Next time this becomes an issue it will be some one else's problem.

Edited September 7, 2017 by w3wilkes

[siteunseen]

I've only had to do it once thank goodness but I mounted the new valve then the very back hose first, middle I think then the short one.  A quarter inch socket and fittings was my life saver.  Oh yeah, a big arse pillow over the door's sill plate.  If I had to do it again I think I'd take the seat out but I managed to do it without removing it.  Killed my back!

Good luck with your's.

[w3wilkes]

Well the new hoses are all in! The easy way for me was first to install the back hose on the heater core. Then I attached both the transfer hose and the other hose that goes through the firewall to the valve. Slid the hose through the firewall, connected to the block and then connected the transfer hose to the heater core. Last thing was to re-attach the valve to the heater core and last re-connect the control cable (I had marked the cable before I disconnected it). Oh, the reducer was a piece of cake, did it first.

This is a job I don't want to do again, but if I have to the first steps will be to disconnect the cable from the valve and then unscrew the valve from the core, remove the transfer hose from the core, remove the other end from the block and take the whole thing out, then removing the hoses from the valve is easy. After that I'd have full access to the back hose on the heater core. Way easier once you've done it once!

Again, a big thanks to Pat for making this job much easier!