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problem with carbs ? after running for a while


Robin260z

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No, they run across the back and drop down through the floor pan on either side of the spare tire well, you have to remove the right side interrior panel and panel that goes across the back. Just push the center pins out of the plastic fasteners and gently pull them out the pins will be on the floor pan ready for re-use.

You acn see where the 1/2 inch line enters the tank by looking under the car where the exhaust exits the body on the left side, that hose actually contains fuel on a full tank. That one usually fails first.

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It's not as involved as it looks. Use your existing manifold halves. Bolt the euro style balance tube to the manifold. Remove the mounting studs from the old manifold and replace them with the longer studs from the E88 manifold, then just swap everything else from the new setup over. You will need to come up with holes or something for the throttle return springs to hook to.

The flat top aircleaner has a square mouth. The round top carbs have a round mouth. Either come up with a later aircleaner is you don't already have one or we sell a set of adapter plates to mount the later aircleaner.

Our JUST SUs dvd would be a help in cleaning up and setting up the new round top carbs. S couple of float bowl lid gaskets and maybe the fuel llines if yours are hard and you should be able to get them to where you can see what kind of shape they are in.

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  • 1 month later...

hi guys, sorry i havent let you guys told how it went but the car is runnign much better now.

I;ve installed the su carbs en let them synchronised and adjust the mixture/ idle speed.

now the cars starts all the time instead of when hot no more.

But there al still a few minor problems.

The car starts very fast when turning on the key but when hit the gas it isnt reving. but when one the rigt temperature the car runs ok.

A classic car mechanic told me that it was wise to change the thermostat because the heater inside isn't getting hot also. This will help the car getting earlier on working temp i too i guess?

So will a new thermostat help the firs problem to let the heater getting warmer earlier and so the engine to?

second question is about the ignition i guess. When the car is at working temp. ( 90 degree celcius ) and i'm waiting in first gear for a traffic light the car idles ok, but when hitting the gas and let the clutch come up the car comes in a kind of dip and it lookes like the car isnt getting fuel or isnt getting a spark. Sometimes when this happens ther is also en small explosion out of the carbs.

I am sure the carbs are adjust good. So i think the ignition is failing.

So i am considering to order a pertronix ignition kit with new spark plug wires. Will this fit onto a 1975 260z and will this be the answer to the second problem.

Many thanx for your help guys, In holland there aren't much datsun clubs and so less information.

I hope it is no problem that i continue in this topic.

greetings from holland!!

robin

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Robin, it sounds as a lean condition, but it can be many things, vrong dampner oil, vrong ignition timing ect., i suggest you upload a photo of the dizzy and also the stamping on the side og the dizzy.

Other than that, get hold of this guy.

Chris

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Robin,

How old is the fuel filter? Could it be clogged? How old is the gasoline? Could you have rust in the tank? How about the fuel pump? If the fuel pressure drops under load, the response will be sluggish. Also, check the fuel tank to see if there is an electric fuel pump on it. There could be a clogged filter there.

Pertronix does not list a 260Z compatible product in its catalog (http://www.pertronix.com). If you REALLY want to change the ignition system, you could swap to a 1979-1981 ZX distributor. Look at my link for Blue's collection of tech tips to find how to do the swap. Note: it requires a 280ZX distributor mounting block to complete.

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