Ignition Key

[AZMarty]

I have a 1975 280Z Coupe. The ignition switch works just fine, but the key (original well-worn Datsun key) can be easily removed in any position. Anyone have any ideas about how to get the key to lock in place in the on and start positions?

[Captain_Zeros]

The Datsun ignition lock cylinders wear out. I don't think there is really any "fix" for this other than replacing the ignition lock cylinder itself which is a pretty simple operation. I did this on my Z cause it made me real wary that I could fire up my car with any key-shaped object.

[FastWoman]

You'll have to unbolt the ignition lock from the steering column, take it in to a locksmith, and have the cylinder replaced with a new one. I believe I removed the bolts by drilling holes and removing with a bolt extractor. As Zeros said, a badly worn lock can be started with just about anything, including a house key, a screwdriver, or even a popsicle stick!

[Gary in NJ]

The slide-out-in-any-position key is a feature

[Unkle]

Argh . Your key can be professionally ''read'' by a competent locksmith .

This means he/she will measure your key with a micrometer , transfer these specs onto a new key via code cutter , and after testing said key , ask you for around 20 bucks if you bring the car in and park it nearby the shop. You will end up with a key with factory ''square'' cuts, not rounded worn ones like you have now. These ''square'' cuts will allow the ignition wafers to sit and stay in them, thus eliminating the possibility of removing the key while in the ''on'' position. This new key will also work the other locks like ''new'' ! This by far is the cheapest option !

Option 2 is more involved and costly , and yes it does mean ignition cylinder replacement . If you combine option 1 and 2 , you will eliminate all wear and end up with a proper factory spec setup.

Always try option 1 first as this really does work most of the time, and is by far the cheapest and quickest.

Yes I am a locksmith with 25 years of ''hands on'' experience . The above is just advice, take it or leave it the way you or your budget see fit .

[Zed Head]

I had a new key cut for my car using the code number on the glove box door. More accurate even than measuring with a micrometer, I assume. The old key would barely work on one door lock only, not at all on the other.

But, unfortunately (or not depending on perspective), the new key still easily comes out of the ignition switch at any point in its rotation.

Just one real-world experience with a new key on a 1976 car. I added a fuel pump cutoff switch because of this, mainly to stop joyriders since my car wouldn't be worth extended effort to steal.

[Unkle]

That's why a combination of new code cut key AND new ignition cylinder would work better in your particular case !

I still can't believe the amount of keys people have on their keychains !

10 , even 5 keys on a ring being bounced around on a daily basis takes a huge toll on the tiny soft brass wafers , springs , and pot metal cylinders . Also the codes hand written on paper tags in the glovebox are rarely there after 25-40 years later !

Edited October 15, 2010 by Unkle

[Arne]

I replaced the wafers in my ignition lock, and had a pair of keys cut from the code from the inside of the glovebox door. (Yes, my handwritten paper sticker is still there.) Works like new. I then (once I knew for certain that it was all good) had a final key cut on a repro factory-style blank (as seen in my avatar and below). Also note that while I do have several keys on the same chain as the daily driver key, for my Z I have a special keychain that carries nothing other than the Datsun key.

If the sticker in the glovebox is missing, I seem to recall hearing that the code can often be found on the door locks. They would have to be removed from the car to see them, I suspect. I did not remember to look for this on mine when I had them removed for painting.

Edited October 15, 2010 by Arne

[Zed Head]

Is replacing the wafers a locksmith job or a DIY? That plus a new code-cut key seems like it gets you back to brand-new, with a single key for locks and ignition. Minimizing the number of keys. Everyone is happy.

[Unkle]

Is replacing the wafers a locksmith job or a DIY? That plus a new code-cut key seems like it gets you back to brand-new, with a single key for locks and ignition. Minimizing the number of keys. Everyone is happy.

Locksmith job . You really aren't saving time / money by DIY.

Do you have correct replacement door caps ?

Alligator cap remover ?

New , keyed to your key ignition cylinder ?

Wafer kit / springs / experience to say whoa , not needed/needed ?

If you jam a key in the ignition , do you know how to remove without destruction ?

Etc

Just some questions/thoughts.......

[Arne]

If you have access to the wafers, the ignition lock can be a DIY job, but not so the doors or hatch.

I did my own ignition lock wafers. If fact, I did a pair of them, keying a spare lock from one of my parts cars to match my car as well. I used a Datsun lock service kit I borrowed from another member here. If you don't have access to such a kit, let the locksmith handle it.

[Zed Head]

2nd edit - So, it sounds like you can buy a new cylinder, take it and your key code or the key you want to match to a good locksmith, and get back to brand new, one key operation. I didn't realize that it was that simple.

I didn't fully understand Unkle's Option #2...

Edited October 15, 2010 by Zed Head