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Mikez73

Appraise mine?

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I know this board is pretty much for purists and most boards frown on this question being asked but...I'm gonna say Dave did it first LOL

I'm going to sell my car as soon as I get the electronic ignition sorted out...or revert back to points distributor, whichever comes first ;)

My car doesn't really have any secrets...I've kept an online log pretty much since day one.

http://67.18.219.83/image_hosting/web_pages/Mike88se/images/240/240Z.htm

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Houston area -you should be able to find a buyer at $4,500.00 to $5,500.00.

Body mod's like the wheel flairs, molded rear spoiler and 280 Hood really hurt the resale value of a 240Z.

What were you thinking price wise?

Carl B.

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Body mod's like the wheel flairs, molded rear spoiler and 280 Hood really hurt the resale value of a 240Z.
Unless you can find a buyer who like the exact mods on the car even better than you do.

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Looks like everyone in the Houston area is trying to sell their Z car. Must be the weather. To freaking hot to enjoy it.

I'm trying to sell mine and i'm not sure if I will be able to get what i'm asking for. Not sure what its really worth either. I know how much i've spent and how much time i've spent on it as well. I don't think there are many Z's in better shape in the area. Never thought I would sell but oh well. Time for someone else to enjoy it.

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Okay coming from someone who has a 240 that is well..uh modded beyond belief. I dont think its gonna hurt the value to much. Is it gonna keep it outta the hand of collectors prob. But yours would make a good start to a track car. I will echo though 4,500 to 5,500.

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Are you looking for an eyes-on appraisal or one from the boys and girls here?

Just casual conversation advice really. Unless you're volunteering...in which case you could help get that damned electronic ignition going ;)

Houston area -you should be able to find a buyer at $4,500.00 to $5,500.00.

Body mod's like the wheel flairs, molded rear spoiler and 280 Hood really hurt the resale value of a 240Z.

What were you thinking price wise?

Carl B.

I don't know Carl. As much as possible obviously. I had it for sale at 6500 but then I discovered that crack in the spoiler. I got a lot of interest but I suspect all 240z's do.

Unless you can find a buyer who like the exact mods on the car even better than you do.

Except for the head lights a lot of people do like the car more than I do. Enough to buy it? I don't know. I know the purist would not be my market but that's okay. There are a lot of people who like modified cars. The one concern that everyone has is rust or bondo. This car never had much rust and the only rust I haven't eliminated is minor surface rust on the rails which you can see in some of the pics on the pic page.

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Not sure if I missed it or read over it, but how did you treat the rust in the rear quarter, hatch and other repaintd areas??

Other than that, I'd agree with Carl and others on the $4500 to $5500 range. Start at $6000, and when they show interest, drop it to $5500 "Just for them" and see how it goes.

Just don't post on here That any of the $0.10 parts were "Walked" out of the Junk Yard, or unpaid for, or Enrique will delete the thread. ;)LOL

Great Car Mike.

Dave

Edited by Zs-ondabrain

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I know this board is pretty much for purists and most boards frown on this question being asked but...I'm gonna say Dave did it first LOL

I'm going to sell my car as soon as I get the electronic ignition sorted out...or revert back to points distributor, whichever comes first ;)

My car doesn't really have any secrets...I've kept an online log pretty much since day one.

http://67.18.219.83/image_hosting/web_pages/Mike88se/images/240/240Z.htm

Well I guess the word "purist" is a relative term. Most of us on this site has some kind of modification. The EI modification is actually a very good one because points are/were so unreliable. I have the 280z EI swap and it's awesome. Anyway, I think you can find many helpful threads here to help you figure out the problem with your EI.

Other mods may change the value of an early car depending on what was done, and I'm sure you'll see plenty of helpful responses here. But, your best value is to make sure the work is always done RIGHT. Cars with quick fix-me-ups can be seen a mile away, so, I encourage people to always do it the right way the first time.

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Just don't post on here That any of the $0.10 parts were "Walked" out of the Junk Yard, or unpaid for, or Enrique will delete the thread. ;)LOL

I don't want to hijack this thread, but, Dave *I* was the one who deleted the posts about stealing from the junkyard. $0.01 to 1MM, we don't encourage walking parts out of anywhere. It's not good for the soul. :)

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Dave...On the spoiler section I first removed all material back to where there was no rust. About 1/2" around the perimeter of the rusted area. Then I removed the rust down to shiny metal. Then phosphoric acid and rust converter just for sealing. Then zinc primer. Maybe overkill or maybe completely wrong. I'm not a restorer. I reattached the spoiler's right "wing" using metal to plastic/fiberglass/urethane two part epoxy.

I had everything perfect and ready for paint but I have very limited space and I accidentally pushed the car where my engine stand was sticking out. Smudged a 3" strip of wet primer :stupid:

That is proving to be harder to fix than the wing.

On the other areas it was basically the same procedure as the rear. Removed the rust with drill-mounted wire brush and/or sandpaper. Applied rust converter as sealant, then zinc primer.

The spoiler and hatch area were pretty easy. Lots of room to work. The radiator support and under the cowl were a lot harder. There are nooks & crannies there where it's hard to get sandpaper and a hand into. I can't guaranty that all the rust there was removed but I'd bet money that there was more blood and skin left behind than rust ;)

It isn't perfect but I believe it has less rust than 95% of the 240's out there.

Thanks for the compliment and for adding your thoughts.

BTW...you lost me with the 10 cent parts and Enrique thing. The guys and gals at LQK usually let me slide on small parts and I know one of the managers there so I get good deals on everything. They just rarely have anything I want. Last time I was there was for Pathy parts.

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Sounds like you did it exactly as it should be done. It's always a good selling point, knowing "How the Rust was Taken care of". You removed it, killed it, covered it to prevent future rust. Perfect.

Sorry bout the $0.10 cent thing. It was the wrong subject in the wrong thread. Threw ya for a loop though huh? Occasionally, I like to toss a Hand-grenade in the Preverbial Jello.

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Looks like everyone in the Houston area is trying to sell their Z car. Must be the weather. To freaking hot to enjoy it.

I'm trying to sell mine and i'm not sure if I will be able to get what i'm asking for. Not sure what its really worth either. I know how much i've spent and how much time i've spent on it as well. I don't think there are many Z's in better shape in the area. Never thought I would sell but oh well. Time for someone else to enjoy it.

I just saw your ad on zcar.com. Very nice car. I hope you get 6500. You should have a look at my interior. We should trade steering wheels...my wheel matches your shift knob and my shift knob matches your wheel :surprised

newZ_019med.jpg

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I just bit the bullet and looked at your repair log and checked out the pictures. If she didn't have the square headlight buckets I would be on a plane to Houston now. The first Z that I ever saw was in high school. It was a 280Z, silver, with the same spoilers front and back, fender flares, and deep black wheels. I drooled over that car for 3 years till it graduated. I've been into Z's ever since.

If I had the money, and a way to easily get there I would so take it off your hands. Your asking price is a bit steep though (for me that is). If you are offering a "just for me" special, I would love to discuss it more through email NCPhotoTrekker@aol.com.

Edited by Smokey

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Haha. I was hoping to get it to match closer but it still looks better than the original wheel. That picture makes it look off, but its not to bad in person.

This one is a little better.

IMG00622.jpg

Good luck with the sell.

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That pic does make it look like a closer match. S30's usually fetch a pretty good price here. I think you'll get your price or very close to it. It's a beautiful car. Maybe when all this rain moves out.

I don't really like my steering wheel or the shift knob. I'd like something that matches the rest of the interior. As soon as I get this thing running I'm going to detail the interior. And give the car a good wash and wax and get some better pics.

@Greg: I'm not crazy about the headlights myself but the lights are bright and the buckets are fiberglass ;)

The PO sent along hardware that he said was from the original lights. No buckets or lights though. I don't have a price yet. If you came by this weekend with 4500 I'd take it just because I'm tired of fooling with the ignition. It's such a simple system but I can't figure out what's wrong and it's making me feel stupid :bunny:

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I'm working this weekend, or I would have to think about it really hard. I could grab a quick loan, fly down, and drive up....if we can put the points back in and get it running. That would be a long trip to NC though. Lemme see what kind of options I can come up with.

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I ended up giving the old dizzy away. I would need to buy another points dizzy to revert back to stock. I think the EI will happen. Got to be something simple and obvious I'm overlooking. I have fuel, spark, and compression. I just have to figure out why they aren't playing nice with each other ;)

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Have you been by to visit Doug Bakke at Awesome Z yet, Mike? He may have a points dizzy you could use or give you some advice on where to go from where you are.

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@Greg: I'm not crazy about the headlights myself but the lights are bright and the buckets are fiberglass ;)

Have just the headlight buckets been changed? Most of the cars with them have fiberglass fenders as well.

Just curious..

Carl B.

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Mike what exhaust tip is on your Z? Curious because my '71 240Z has a similar tip as well as the same rear spoiler.

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Have just the headlight buckets been changed? Most of the cars with them have fiberglass fenders as well.

Just curious..

Carl B.

I have started to wonder the same thing. Looking at the pics, it looks like one piece with the fender, maybe just molded in. I would hope that they are just the buckets so they could be changed out and reverted back to the original round lights. I feel like a Jeep snob right now talking about round vs square lights. The round are just so much better looking IMO.

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Have you been by to visit Doug Bakke at Awesome Z yet, Mike? He may have a points dizzy you could use or give you some advice on where to go from where you are.

No Frank I hadn't thought of Awesome Z. You recommend the shop? Also I'm curious if you are/were a member of the Z club in Houston. I had a couple of z31 friends in the club. Spot and David. You might know them?

Have just the headlight buckets been changed? Most of the cars with them have fiberglass fenders as well.

Just curious..

Carl B.

Only the buckets are fiberglass Carl. I went over the entire body with a small magnet LOL. Was this a pretty common modification? I'm surprised that more than one person did it LOL

Looking at the car I wonder if the owner was going for a little bit of a 930 look but 930's had round head lights of course.

Mike what exhaust tip is on your Z? Curious because my '71 240Z has a similar tip as well as the same rear spoiler.

Can't help you out there jmark. The original owner did all of the modifications on the car. He is deceased. I bought the car from the second owner. He bought the car in 1994/95. But...he really didn't know a lot about the car.

As for the ignition problem, Adrian, who posts here as Ahlbin, has been helping me out. I'm not going to go into all the details of the swap but I've got quite a few parts that were defective. I'm on my second dizzy. I confirmed yesterday that the upper shaft on this one was installed backwards. I corrected that and with the engine at TDC and crank timing mark at 0 degrees the rotor points to #1.

07-02-10_007-t.jpg

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I heartily and highly recommend Doug! He knows Zs inside and out, even races one.

Sorry, I don't know a "Spot" and there are a couple of "Davids" in the Club. Maybe they've left for some reason, or I just don't recognize the name with the cars.

BTW, if you can get yours running, Baker Tuning is having their Grand Opening on 10 July and are sponsoring an all Nissan car show at their north location (Baker Nissan). They're a big sponsor of the Club and the more Zs, the better!

Hope to see you there!

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I confirmed yesterday that the upper shaft on this one was installed backwards.

How did you do that?

I corrected that and with the engine at TDC and crank timing mark at 0 degrees the rotor points to #1.

The piston will be at TDC and the timing mark will be on "0" on both the compression and exhaust stroke. So you have to also assure that your #1 cylinder is on the "compression" stroke. You do that by looking at the position of the intake/exhaust cam lobs. They should be pointing more or less UP such that the valves are CLOSED.

Keep in mind that if your #1 cylinder is actually on the exhaust stoke - the rotor in the distributor will be pointing 180 degrees opposite the #1 plug. {just as it was before}

I'm sure you knew that - but just for those following along. Very important to confirm the compression stroke.

FWIW,

Carl

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