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Everything posted by Mikez73

  1. You would think so but then I should also be able to do it through the unsubscribe link provided in each email. Unfortunately neither method is functional. As I stated, I have no subscriptions. I would guess that is why the unsubscribe link doesn't work...
  2. I get multiple emails each day for new ads. Some days I get one or two...some days ten or more. I'd like to be removed from the mailing list. I have no subscriptions to any ad categories. This is the second time I've made this request.
  3. I'd go with thermal coating. Functional and looks good. This is mine :
  4. I think my next car will be a 280z or a z31. I'm a non purist and if I buy a 280 it will get an L28et and a standalone engine management. The obvious benefits are that I'll have no emissions testing and I can get rid of most of the cluster**** of wires and hoses. Anyway...like it or not, I'm still lurking
  5. I just used some common rubber bushings of the appropriate size. I believe it was John Coffey who said the main point of using rubber isolators is to protect the aluminum radiator from radiator core support flex which will destroy the radiator.
  6. A z31 friend asked me to measure the hatch or the hatch glass of my car. It was a real hectic day all around and I forgot to get the measurements. Now my car is gone so I can't do it. Anybody want to help out?
  7. Good luck and I hope things pick up soon. I have a good working radiator I'd give you if you weren't so far away
  8. Jared, that's pretty much why I didn't want to run a CL ad. The fear factor not so much of a worry but the time wasting of no-shows and people out for joyrides definitely. I put mine on CL after all. But the carbs have been removed to sell separately so nobody is going on any joyrides in the car . Unfortunately the "sellability" and the price also take a nosedive. If nobody buys it I'll just do the turbo swap when I can afford it. I didn't really want this to turn into a project and at this point I'd just like the car gone so I can go back to the car I know best...but I can't just give the car away. Its just too sweet looking of a car that's about as rust free as an unrestored 240 gets. Good luck selling yours.
  9. Basically there were no buyers. I only listed it here and at zcar.com. I'm really leery of listing it on craigslist. I had a guy drive almost 300 miles to look at the car. I expected him to buy it because he pulled a trailer down and he knew everything about the car before coming. I don't think he really had any intentions of buying it at all. He did take a lot of photos of it for whatever reason. Plan B is to sell the L24 parts and the carbs and buy an L28et. That isn't going well either No interest in the parts either. so far. It really seems like a great time to be a buyer...not so great to be a seller.
  10. Thanks Bob. They used to use that or water back before Seafoam right? At any rate the carbs are not gong back on the car. Since I can't seem to sell the car I'm trying to sell the carbs, motor, tranny, header, gas tanks, etc and install an L28et. EFI + turbo=happiness to me.
  11. My ad says SOLD! too but it isn't. But then it really isn't very for sale either . Also could an admin fix the unsubscribe feature of the classifieds? I really didn't want to be subscribed but it happened. When I try to unsubscribe I get an error page.
  12. Thanks guys but the carbs are off so taking the car out and driving it are out. I don't think it's that serious but that's just my opinion. The motor is strong and when I last drove it I could smoke the tires which seems pretty good for an L24 with 245/50 tires. But when you're trying to sell a motor and the compression test says problem then it is a problem. Thanks
  13. My car hasn't been driven very much since I bought it last November..maybe 6 times total for less than 5 miles each time. It's been driven once in the last six months...about a one mile drive. The previous owner rarely drove it. I did a cold compression test today. I figured this engine had high compression pistons but the piston, cam, and any other specs were known only to the original owner who is unfortunately no longer with us. Well, it has high compression on 4 cylinders . I'm not sure what to make of the results. Too much sitting up or sticky valves or both. Rings? Any thoughts? 1-185 2-200 3-100 4-195 5-185 6-115 I tried 3 and 6 again after a couple squirts of oil. 120 on both.
  14. I don't know anybody else here but with the guys I came up with, turning over means the starter is turning the engine rotating assembly. If the crank ain't turning then it isn't "turning over"
  15. Pick-up coils are cheap and easy to replace. Measure the resistance between the green and red wire. Should be 1 to 2 ohms according to the electrical guru at HZ. I don't think it's bad from what you've written so far. New wires and cap should help a lot if you have visible arcing.
  16. It's going to be a fun car regardless of which engine you use. I'd choose "none of the above" and get a turbo EFI engine. Second would be Bruce Palmer's suggestion. A well built L24 w/ triple Webers is fun too.
  17. Damn...it was only 7pm when I posted so I don't even have an excuse
  18. Is this the same car referenced in the original post???
  19. We've told you how it's supposed to be. Rotate the crank so that the pointer is at 0. Remove the valve cover and make sure the first two cam lobes are pointing up...not necessarily straight up... just up. Now you're at TDC compression stroke. The rotor should be pointed at the #1 terminal on the dizzy now. If it is pointing to #6 then remove the dizzy, disassemble enough that you can turn that part circled in red in the diagram around. Reassemble the dizzy. Install plug wires in correct positions. You should be fine then if everything else is in order. Let me know if you need any tips on disassembling the dizzy to turn that upper shaft around.
  20. I'm sorry...on the dizzy it's 1-5-3-6-2-4 counter clockwise. The cylinders are 1 2 3 4 5 6 from front to back regardless of where you stand
  21. As stated previously...on the dizzy the terminal nearest the radiator is #1. Going clockwise from there its #5-#3-#6-#2-#4 The cylinders in the motor are just as you'd expect: 1-2-3-4-5-6 If you need to reorient the dizzy as in a post stated above, you nedd to disassemble the dizzy and rotate the part circled in red in this diagram:
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