Blower motor issues . . .

[New-to-240z]

Ok, so rather then keep on going off-topic in the Honda Motor thread, I'd thought I'd jump in to my own and keep it simple.

So, what I've done so far is to remove the AC system in the passenger footwell. (At least that is what I am hoping is the AC system hahah.) I unbolted everything and it pulled straight down and out. What's left is now just the blower and I found the power and ground wires. So . . .

Ignition turned to on and knob turned to HIGH, I tested at the motor and no juice was apparent. I then looked at where the wiring went and found that it when to a cable above the motor that had about 3 other wires going into it. This cable then connected to another cable that seemed to go from the passenger side all the way over to the driver side. I'm trying to follow the wires from there but its getting pretty hard with all the crazy things going on!

I think I'm going to try running a wire straight from the battery pos and neg, to the pos and neg on the blower. That way I can see even if the motor is working. If yes, I'll then just run an inline switch to have the fan running at full power when needed. The question I have now . . . will this cause any issues? I mean, I can run it over the ignition wire, but why? I mean, I think I'll be able to "hear" my blower running and know that the switch needs to be turned off before turning off my car. Is running a wire directly from my battery to my blower going to cause any longevity issues? Is it to much power? for the blower to handle?

By the way, this will just be temporary until I pull out the entire dash to re-do the problems it is having, along with all the gauges I want to put in. So, I'm guessing it will only be used like this for about 1 - 2 years.

Edited June 4, 2010 by New-to-240z

[Inf]

I think you need to invest in a multimeter and learn how to use it. We can give you suggestions, but when it comes down to it, we can only go off what you tell us, which is limited to what you know about the situation.

I honestly can't imagine troubleshooting electrical problems without a multimeter. As an analogy, I would say that would be like trying to put a jigsaw puzzle together in the dark.

You could have easily verified if your fan was getting voltage with a multimeter, without having to follow wires or remove any parts - just unplug the two wires, stick the multimeter leads in there, and measure the voltage. Simple.

Just my 2 cents.

Good luck!

Edited June 4, 2010 by Inf

[Walter Moore]

Try these:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=multimeter

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Digital-Multi-Meter-Dorman_5760112-P_N3389_T|GRP2018____

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-92020.html

Any of those will help considerably to track down the problem.

[New-to-240z]

I think you need to invest in a multimeter and learn how to use it. We can give you suggestions, but when it comes down to it, we can only go off what you tell us, which is limited to what you know about the situation.

I honestly can't imagine troubleshooting electrical problems without a multimeter. As an analogy, I would say that would be like trying to put a jigsaw puzzle together in the dark.

You could have easily verified if your fan was getting voltage with a multimeter, without having to follow wires or remove any parts - just unplug the two wires, stick the multimeter leads in there, and measure the voltage. Simple.

Just my 2 cents.

Good luck!

I have a multimeter and tested out the power going into the blower and nothing was there. I then found the inline fuse with the blue wires that everyone said to find and tested that, but I got no difference in the reading when testing the fan knob set at off, low, med or high. I actually found 3 different in line fuses and tested all of them but all read a full 12.00+ reading when using the multimeter.

I did however find one that had a red wire and was actually missing a fuse and I couldn't find the other end of the wire so I couldn't test if it was the issue. I'm just trying to find a wire that varies its voltage when i turn the knob and also has an inline fuse.

I really appreciate everyone's help so far. I've forgotten how much fun it is to tear apart cars! I'm finding the urge to tear this baby down more and more everyday.

If you can all continue to help I would greatly appreciate it. I'm thinking I'll still be pulling out the center consol of the car to reall dig deep on where the wires are and what wires go to what parts. I have found other threads that outline how to do this, and I think it would be a great help. The hard part is, that when the SR20DET was swapped into my car, so were a lot of extra wires and its been a PIA to find the ones I need. haha

[Walter Moore]

Stick a 10A fuse in inline holder that had a blue wire on one side and a red wire on the other. Now that you mention that detail it seems like the fan circuit had some strange color code deviations from the drawing.

[New-to-240z]

I'm going to dig deeper today on this and see what I can find. I'm so tired of running back and forth from my condo to my garage that I'm buying a damn laptop today or tomorrow to stop this waste of time haha

[AlexS13]

any updated with this? I'm having this EXACT same problem! I just removed my A/C system and now my blower motor will not work. Every wire that i'm testing for power is giving me constant 12v which is turning the motor on but i have no control of it with the switch. Can someone who has a non A/C 240z tell us exacly where the postive and negative wires coming out of the motor are leading to?

The only electrical component of the a/c i removed was the switch on the drivers side but I don't see how removing that will give me this problem.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

[Mikes Z car]

On my early 240 (MFR date 1/70) the motor wires go straight up out of the motor about 3 inches and plug into two similar wires that continue straight up another two inches that then go into a hole in the very top of the fan box nearest the edge toward the passenger seat. I assume the resistors for slowing down the fan speed are in that hole. A wire bundle comes out of this same hole and goes maybe 3 inches before having a molex connector pair on it (male and female connected together). This wire bundle continues maybe 9 inches on to another molex connector pair (male and female pair connected together) that is 5 inches from the fan control switch on the dash and continues on to connect to that switch. This molex conductor has a red wire coming out of it and if I connect 12 volts to that red wire the blower runs. This red wire plugs into one end of a blue wire that goes to an inline fuseholder in the passenger footwell that currently has a 15A fuse in it. The other wire from the fuseholder is also blue and goes into the wire harness. My fan will run if I connect 12 volts to the fuse but I am not getting 12 volts to the fuse for some reason. Hope this helps, my car is a 1/70. I can take pictures if needed since I have my radio out and I can see a little bit. Also a hand mirror with a small bright light helps. I use a 10 watt halogen bulb in a wire cage connected to a 12 V power supply.

Mike

Edited August 3, 2010 by Mikes Z car