Ever blow a Freeze Plug while Driving?? I did....

[prilofx]

Hi All' date='

To install them I used a socket that just fit and bapped them in with a BFH. Is there something I missed? I did not use any kind of sealer/adhesive as the NAPA guys said they weren't necessary. Any advice will be appreciated. Dave, did you put yours in yet?

Cheers, Mike[/quote']

I have had to do them on my other cars in the past. I tap them in with a round thing like a big socket with electrical tape on the meeting edge to get them lined up straight and in and then put a bit of 2 x 4 over them and whack with a hammer. You gotta make sure they are straight in the hole. You want the whacking to apply even pressure to the edges instead of the center or one side to make sure it goes in straight. They like to blast out if the plugs aren't flush. NEver had to use any sealer, just had to make sure the plugs were in straight.

[Pop's Z]

Thanks all for the advice and commiseration. I asked my wife to take a picture of me laying on top of the engine with much padding underneath, but she was laughing too hard. I replaced the core plug and in preparation used my Dremel tool with a sanding flapper attachment to really clean out the hole. I also used a thin film of Permatex#2 around the sealing edge. My big fear is that when I painted the block I didn't remove the paint from the hole surfaces before installing the plugs, and that could be the cause of the problem. Fingers crossed that I don't have to re-do every bloody one of the plugs. It's much more difficult too do with the engine in the car.

Cheers, Mike

[prilofx]

Fingers crossed that I don't have to re-do every bloody one of the plugs. It's much more difficult too do with the engine in the car.

Cheers' date=' Mike[/quote']

I've done the plugs on 7 of the 10 cars I've owned. I'd rather have my eyes put out with rusty grapefruit spoons than do another one :sick:. Which reminds me... that's something I haven't checked on my Z yet. ah well... a week off school is coming up.

[JimmyZ]

Bummer to hear about the extra damage Dave. Isnt there a freeze plug or two (coolant related) underneath the front cover? (It's been a while since I had one apart)

I installed all new (steel plated) freeze plugs three years ago and am already having to replace them. Guess the plating on the steel freeze plugs isn't what it used to be. The last set of steel plugs lasted 15 years.

A friend of mine had a Ford Taurus that had all his plugs go from rusting through. He was in a tight spot finacially so I helped him replace them. When the plugs inside the bellhousing/behind the flywheel let go I told him to get another car.

Next time I rebuild I'm definitely using BRASS plugs.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Yup, nothin but brass now. not likely to ever skimp in this area again. Ever..

Dave

[Zs-ondabrain]

Well, I had to bite the bullet today and make a decision I didn't wanna make so close to Canby. After fixing the water pump and freeze plugs, I took it for a test drive to heat it up and check for leaks....... I blew so much smoke around the neighborhood that I thought they'd hunt me down and do a good old fashioned Linching.

My rings, valves and motor in general is just shot. I burn thru over a quart of oil per tank of gas. If not more.

SO.......... The 260Z motor has been sitting there and it's better in a car than out. So me and Tyler and my neighbor started pulling everything off the motor and transfering everything over for tomorrows SWAP.

Gonna borrow a friends hoist and try and whip it out in a few hours.

I'll let ya know how it goes. But at least I won't be smoking everyone out at Canby this year. I typically take the rear of the line of Z's to help everyone avoid breathing my smokey exhaust. Just ask Arne and Gary.

Dave

[Zs-ondabrain]

So me and Tyler got the L26 in today. It looks so damn pretty in the engine bay. Tyler had to leave just after I got it running so he missed the test drive after a few standard adjustments (New clutch = adjust the adjustable pushrod) Top off the fluids, look for leaks, Marked the pulley and set it at 7* @ 750 RPM.

All warmed up so I took her for a drive around the block.... Oh MY GOD!!! I've been so used to a 40 year old motor that has smoked from day 1 of ownership that I almost crapped myself when I laid on it. It was a little wet out so the tires kicked out from under me, rocked it sideways in a drift motion for about 150 feet, hit third and was GONE!!!

Same exhaust, same carbs, no stage 2 cam but this thing sounds Raspy as all get out. Almost no smoke worth mentioning, drops back down to idle-nice and smooth without a stutter. had it idling at 400RPM at one point, and it was smooooth to say the least. She's now at a perfect 750 RPM and good to go.

What should my timing be at @ 750rpm??

Dave

Edited June 7, 2010 by Zs-ondabrain

[alhbln]

What should my timing be at @ 750rpm??

Dave

With an engine management system (Megajolt as example ) you can set idle independently of the rest of the advance curve, but with a mechanical advance setup i would rather focus on the max advance and let the idle follow.

If you care for a smooth idle, turn the distributor to 10º with a warm engine, then start the engine and slowy turn the distributor in both directions and listen to the engine where the idling is smoothest. Might be anywhere between 6-15º depending on the engines condition, carbs and air supply.

[S30Driver]

Sounds like its running great Dave! I think you made the right decision.

Post a pix of the new motor. Do you plan to rebuild the old motor?

Makes me want to get my swap from the blue car done even faster now....

[Zs-ondabrain]

With an engine management system (Megajolt as example ) you can set idle independently of the rest of the advance curve, but with a mechanical advance setup i would rather focus on the max advance and let the idle follow.

If you care for a smooth idle, turn the distributor to 10º with a warm engine, then start the engine and slowy turn the distributor in both directions and listen to the engine where the idling is smoothest. Might be anywhere between 6-15º depending on the engines condition, carbs and air supply.

Wow, Ask a simple question and get Rocket Science instead. Thanks but all I wanted to know is.....

What should the timing be at for a 2.6 (L26) at 750RPM? That's it. That's all.

Pictures as soon as it stops fricken raining. Cause it sure looks pretty Now. With the exception of Chevy Orange block and highlights, but the Polished Everything else looks great.

Dave

Edited June 7, 2010 by Zs-ondabrain

[Basil]

Wow... I never would have thought to look at the plugs... I me and my girlfriend are about to pull the motor from her car (76 280z 2+2) and give it a good once over. We are replacing the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, valve lash, etc... I think I just might check the plugs as well haha. Also, when I was replacing the clutch a few weeks ago, I thought it was funny that there is a freeze plug behind the clutch... isnt that a little hard to access? Glad to hear that you like the new L26

[sblake01]

I changed all of those including to one behind the clutch when I bought my 78 in 1997. No problems at all over the following 12 years. I sold it last year.

On a totally unrelated note, when I read the title of this thread, I can't help thinking of the song "DID YOU EVER SEE A DREAM WALKING?"

(that will date me!!)

Edited June 9, 2010 by sblake01