Only starts when jumped..?

[SteveJ]

Okay, the data is getting better. I'll post some more suggestions later on to help with the diagnosis.

[SteveJ]

Okay, let's get some better diagnostics going. These diagnostics assume that you know how to take voltage, current, and resistance measurements. If you don't, use your favorite search engine on how to use a multimeter.

Measure the resistance of your battery cables. There should be only a tiny bit of resistance. On my 73, the 15 year old negative battery cable showed only 0.1 ohms to ground. Post your results for what you get.

Fully charge your battery. Install it in the car and measure the voltage at the posts. It should be around 13.2 volts or so. Now measure from ground (any exposed bolt on the body) to the bolt where the positive cable attaches to the solenoid. Let us know the two voltages. If they match, your battery cables are definitely good. Let us know the voltages. Saying a signal is present does have any useful diagnostic meaning in these tests. Look for corrosion around the solenoid while you're at it.

Now, if the battery is draining fast, you need to see how much current is flowing through it. With the battery in the car, hook the positive cable to the battery. Do not connect the negative cable. Make sure you are using a multimeter capable of measuring 10 amps. Set it to the 10 amp scale and plug the positive lead into the jack for 10 amps. That lead will go to the negative terminal of the battery. The common lead of the meter will go to the negative battery cable. If you do not get a reading, set the meter at the next scale down, move the positive lead to the proper jack, and measure again. Keep dropping the scale until you get a reading. A normal electrical system should only be drawing a few milliamps. I suspect that you will have a higher reading than that, though.

Common problems that can cause a high draw on the battery are

bad voltage regulators (Unplug the voltage regulator and re-test. If the current drops to zero, replace the regulator.)

shorted alternator (Again, unplug just the alternator and re-test.)

improper stereo installation

improper aftermarket alarm system

short circuit (remove fuses one by one until the current drops)

You'll also want to check to see if the battery is getting a charge from the car. First check to see if you have enough tension on the alternator belt to turn the alternator. After starting the car, take a voltage measurement at the battery. It should be around 14 to 15 volts depending upon the temperature with the car at 2500 rpm.

If you have a Haines manual, look at Chapter 10/Electrical system. There is some good diagnostic information there.

If all else fails, send me a pm.

[Stickerman]

Jumped the car and let it run for about 10-12 min to charge the battery. After, I turned it off and had it sit for about an hour - hour and a half (all this time leaving the battery connected).

If your battery is completely dead, charging it from the alternator for 10 minutes is not much of a boost. Did you have the idle up to make sure the alternator was kicking in?

[JohnnyP]

Battery charged and installed in the car, car running: 11.5-12 volts

Ground to (+) on the solenoid: 11.5-12 volts

The multimeter I have only reaches 250 milliamps, is this acceptable or should i just take it to have it load tested?

I checked the continuity across the battery and I got a closed circuit.

You mentioned improper installation of a stereo; I do not have a stereo installed at the moment, and most of the wires for it are exposed. Could this be a problem? Again, Im new to all this, so if that is a huge no-no, forgive my ignorance.

Thanks for the help everyone, SteveJ your list of advice was well needed and used.

John

[SteveJ]

Battery charged and installed in the car, car running: 11.5-12 volts

Ground to (+) on the solenoid: 11.5-12 volts

11.5-12 volts is on the low side at the battery, even with the car at idle. What was the RPM? Did you do the test at 2500RPM? What was the voltage with the car off?

The multimeter I have only reaches 250 milliamps, is this acceptable or should i just take it to have it load tested?

An ammeter with a 250mA scale may be enough, but there is a chance it isn't. You can look at this multimeter on Amazon. It's under $14 shipped, and it does have a 10A scale. The test I wanted you to do is to look for a shorted component that is draining the battery. If the battery is being drained quickly, it could have a large (greater than 1A) draw. If you order the meter today, you could have it by Wednesday.

I checked the continuity across the battery and I got a closed circuit.

Not surprising, but not meaningful unfortunately.

You mentioned improper installation of a stereo; I do not have a stereo installed at the moment, and most of the wires for it are exposed. Could this be a problem? Again, Im new to all this, so if that is a huge no-no, forgive my ignorance.

Exposed wires can lead to short circuits. Improper stereo installations sometimes involve bypassing fuses, eliminating protection for the wiring. This can lead to draining of the battery or even an electrical fire. Tape off any exposed wires.

Please go back to my detailed procedure. The wording and order were given on purpose. If you don't understand something in it, send me a PM. Heck, I'll even call you and talk to you about it. Besides, I have a numb hand and don't feel like typing out explanations for all of the tests.

[=Enigma=]

John, Steve gave you some REALLY great advice in post #14. Did you take the time to measure the draw on the battery like he recommended? If so, please post the numbers. This will help identify where the draw is coming from and could explain why your battery is being drained.

[JohnnyP]

UPDATED:

Fully charged battery installed in car, with car on at 2500 RPM's, and with it off: 13v

From ground to positive lead at the solenoid: 13v

When I went to measure the amps from the negative terminal on the battery to the negative lead, the needle on the meter I was using went backwards (to the left). Im not sure what this means, but I would guess it means the meter is not strong enough?

I removed the center console to get a look at the wires for where the stereo was. The PO really hacked up that harness. I taped off and caped the unused wire ends.

[SteveJ]

When I went to measure the amps from the negative terminal on the battery to the negative lead, the needle on the meter I was using went backwards (to the left). Im not sure what this means, but I would guess it means the meter is not strong enough?

If the meter goes negative, reverse the leads and try again.

[Colin240z]

I am no expert on the subject...but I went through a charging challenge a year and half ago, where I was not getting anywhere close to 14.5V across the battery (~12.7V)...turned out it was a short in the harness. Once you have ~14.5V across the battery, your system should be charging properly....anything less and you have a drain in the system. It may be worth going to a mechanic/service station for a check on your charging system (could be alternator, voltage regulator, or a short?).

[JohnnyP]

I reversed the leads as suggested and the needle went to the extreme right (off the scale).

I was reading my Haines manual for the car, and by the description of what the voltage regulator is supposed to do, it sounds like that could be my problem. The cut-out may not be functioning properly, therefore not stopping the draw of power from the battery. May be why the battery has been draining so rapidly. Am I on the right track?

Everyones help has been invaluable, I have been learning a lot simply from this forum alone. Thanks again,

John

[SteveJ]

John,

Now you have polarity correct. I suggest you look at my link for a meter with a higher scale for current. If you don't want to do Amazon, I think you can find one at Wal-Mart.

I think you're starting to see why I was telling you to look at Chapter 10 in the Haines manual. As for the voltage regulator, there was a reason I said,

Unplug the voltage regulator and re-test. If the current drops to zero, replace the regulator.

If the regulator is bad, your current will drop to zero. Been there. Done that. Regardless, you have a serious current draw on your battery, and that is exactly why the battery drains so quickly.