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removing asphalt paper


Davis

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I tried doing a search on this but no luck - maybe I havent used the right lingo.

What is the best way to remove the layer of asphalt type paper that is over top of the floor pans?

I have removed some of it with a chisel and found rust some below. My idea is to remove it all then coat everything with POR 15 before I install new carpets.

Anyone help?

regards Dave

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thanks for the guidance - I did a search on tar mat and found a few ways to remove it

I used a heat gun and it went quite well - got most of the passengers side done in about 1 hour last night

I found a patch done by some other owner, but otherwise very minor surface rust that will remove easily - the view from the underside looks ok too.

What purpose did that mat serve - was it to waterprooof?

regards Dave

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I used a paint scraper and a hammer. It kind of worked but then I used airplane remover which is a potent paint remover product that I got from Autozone. It would dissolve it enough to scrap up the goo left behind. Obviously don't use this with a heat gun. Best of luck.

carl

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Use dry ice!

Go down to the grocery store and buy a couple blocks of dry ice. Break them up with a hammer and spread the chunks around on the tar mat and let it sit for a while.

Come back after you have a beer or two when most of the dry ice has disappeared and hit the tar mat with a hammer a few times. It breaks up like peanut brittle.

This is way easier than any other method and is almost no mess! What little remanence that remain on the floor boards will clean up with lacquer thinner with ease.

Edited by er34gtt2000jp
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I just waited for the cold weather to chill the mat by leaving the garage door open all day. Then I used a body hammer with the pointy end on it and it snaps out like Peanu Brittle, as said above. Then follow thru with a putty knife for the small bits that are left.

The first 2 pics show the after, of removing with cold weather and a pointy happer and also show the Rust Mort white residue that I later cleaned up.

The 2nd 2) show the Duplicolor Truck Bed liner over the POR15 and welded holes. I cut out the rust and weled in Patch panels, then undercoated the under side, then was able to POR15 the rusted area's then coat the whole floor with the plastic/Rubber truck bed coating. It's basically a Pool Liner now. Water will never touch bare metal on these floors.

And as soon as I have the Money, I'll be laying down 76 square feet of Dynamat Xtreme on the Floors, firewall, back wall behind the seats, a little inside the tool boxes, the rear hatch floor, inner doors using strips and outer doors using a full sheet, as well as the rear quarters and Sprayable Dynamat in the doglegs and in the lower kick panels below the doors. Sure, there will be extra weight but it'll be a beautiful thing. Quite enough to not yell over road noise and exhaust sound. Quiet closing solid sounding doors. Louder stereo due to less sound loss due to noise and vibration. It'll be like a new car. But it better be after $300 in Dynamat, spray, truck bed liner and filler in the quarters.

Dave

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Edited by Zs-ondabrain
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You all might think I'm crazy, but what do you look for to replace it like original? I'm looking to actually replace it after I re-prime the metal, and repair a dent in the floor, I don't have any rust to repair (thank god). I made a template to make a new one before I take it out I just need to find the material is.

I've helped friends with this the dry ice works great and then some heat where ever it didn't come up. We didn't use hammers since the metal on that car was aluminum. just found edges and pried up on it breaking pieces off. I know someone that might be able to get me some liquid nitrogen that would relay make it brittle. When the time comes to remove the tar met I'll let you know if I used liquid nitrogen and how well it works

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DO NOT use liquid nitrogen.

Aside from the very real hazard of giving yourself a nasty "cold burn", there is the additional problem that it will very literally freeze the metal to where a sharp impact might crack it (not shatter like glass). The dry ice method is more than sufficiently cold. Besides, it's much cheaper and readily accesible (Baskin Robbins for one usually has it to transport their tubs of ice cream).

As far as a chisel, pointed hammer or claw... just a simple rap with a rubber mallet from below the floor pan will literally pop it right off. The other instruments could potentially damage the metal.

As far as replacing the mat, there are various products out there; but replicating the original? If the intent is to "restore" the floor tar mat to look like the original ... well, it's your time and money. Most folks just re-cover the whole floor and avoid having any openings where water can once again creep down to the metal.

To take the tar mat off to simply reprime the surface and then replace the tar mat? You're going to a lot of trouble for very little, if any, gain. Just my opinion, but you'd be better off protecting the metal, and use some stronger protection than simple primer (primer IS porous), such as POR, Zero-Rust, Rust-Mort or the like.

For the tar-mat, use Brown Bread, Dynamat, Q-pads manufactured by Evercoat, or whatever generic tar-mat you can find.

Just my 2¢

E

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