L24 Fails to Start - Dead righ after starter turn off

[biddljj]

1972 L24 Issue

My car seems to die right after I let go of the ignition key.

It's like there is no spark after the ignition is not turning the starter.

Battery has been charged.

Yesterday I had a jump to get it started... Loaded it onto trailer

When I got home I have the current issue... The car really seems to be

trying to start

Thanks, Jay

Not Just a Z - zdisease

[biddljj]

One step closer to resolution.

1. I ran a wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil.

2. Ignition on. Car starts and runs fine.... Just can't turn off with hot wire installed.

3. Disconnect of hot wire kills engine

Ignition Switch issue ?

Jay

Not just a Z - zdisease

[Marty Rogan]

I had this happen a long time ago. Try this. Turn the key so that it cranks and starts, but don't let the key return all the way. If it stays running, it is the ballast resistor.

Good luck,

Marty

[biddljj]

I went down to the garage to test this idea..... Just for grins I tried to start without hot wire and... Damm she starts.... I did this several times......

Can the Ballast Resistor idea be aggravated by bad contacts ?

Happy but mystified, Jay

Not just a Z - zdisease

[zuum]

You should have a +12 ign power wire connected to the resistor, it runs throught the resistor to the coil, you should also have a +12 start only signal wire on +side of the coil. Make sure you have both. Turn ignition switch to run , not start, check for power at the coil +side. It should have more like 8v due to the resistor... if it doesn't (seems like it won't), could be a bad resistor (not as likely, never seen a bad one in 20+ years), but more likely poor contact in the spade (sometimes a ring) connector, or a the IGN +12v wire is not connected.

[EScanlon]

biddljj:

It's getting juice when the starter is engaged but not when you release the starter relay.

You have the Black/White wire at the coil reversed with the Green/White on the resistor.

Is the tach plugged in?

The juice to the coil goes through the tach during both start and run. If you have it looped out, and only the G/W wire to the coil, when you release the key, the car is no longer feeding juice through the G/W. You need the B/W to the coil also in order to bypass the tach.

HTH

E

Edited October 11, 2009 by EScanlon