Accelerator linkage fix questions?

[JoelH]

I replaced the small linkage to the carbs with the longer 280ZX rod with a bend. I think it helped a tiny bit but the surge is still very evident. When I'm in 2nd and turning the corner it really bucks.

I need to smooth this out somehow or start wearing a neck restraint while driving!

[Carl Beck]

I'm not a welder and was wondering how anyone else has done this mod without welding?

Any ideas?

The article is intended to show you how to do the fix - without welding. You just cut and drill - and bolt together.

For example see below -

Of course you can replace the mechanical linkage, with a modern cable type - hot rodders do it all the time, but then that might also involve welding new brackets in place..

FWIW,

Carl B.

[JoelH]

I'll try that fix now Carl. That diagram is a little more clear than the other one I saw describing that fix.

[soundmasterg]

I've got this problem with my '72 also. Makes it really hard to drive smoothly. I'd eventually like to go to a cable setup but am not sure how to go about that. In the meantime I got an extra bellcrank to mess with so maybe I can mod it and have it work out of the box......not bloody likely but worth a try.

Greg

[JoelH]

Only thing I see with the bellcrank mod and screwing it together is durability. I'll keep the original bellcrank in the car just in case it breaks while I'm driving.

[ph240]

I know some won't want to do this but... I found a cool way to replace the factory linkage with a braided stainless steel cable that is teflon lined. Lokar (www.lokar.com) offers a universal throttle cable. You have to be willing to trim the gas pedal so their clevis pin will fit, use a washer on the firewall so the cable will fit in the stock hole. I welded mine up and redrilled it since my chassis is striped bare. And you will have to make a adjuster plate on top of the cross over tube on the stock manifold and weld on a tab 180 degrees from the stock one, since the cable must pull the shaft up. It is a little work but looks way cool. Once my body is painted I will post pictures. This will fix any of sticking throttle issue the factory had. I do like the mechaincal linkage, it is cool how it works and is so Z car, but the Lokar cable fits the look I am after. The 36" cable retails for about $50.

[WW2Winger]

I am contemplating doing this mod as well. When you add the washer to the top of the bell crank, how do you now get the e-clip back on? The total height is taller and now the groove in the throttle shaft is covered by the washer and bushing. I know this is probably a dumb question, but before I cut the arm I want to be sure I will be able to get it all back on correctly. Thanks in advance for any help.

[JoelH]

I am contemplating doing this mod as well. When you add the washer to the top of the bell crank, how do you now get the e-clip back on? The total height is taller and now the groove in the throttle shaft is covered by the washer and bushing. I know this is probably a dumb question, but before I cut the arm I want to be sure I will be able to get it all back on correctly. Thanks in advance for any help.

I had another thread later on this problem so I saw your post and can answer your question. I ended up cutting the bellcrank arm after the washer was attached per the procedure. I had a heck of a time trying to get the e clip back on until I made another mod.

I had got my hands on a few bellcranks when trying to get them from a couple of vendors. There are at least three different versions and they all seemed to have been used on a '72. With each of these I got two bushings so I had plenty to spare. What I did was use a total of three bushings on the shaft when I installed the new modified bellcrank.

You will put the bottom bushing with the "lip" on it as normal. The other two will be installed on the shaft after the lip on each are removed. I used a small hacksaw and filed any ridges off. The washer adds height to the bellcrank and in the stock configuration the bushing lip goes over the top and the e clip sits atop that. By cutting the lip off the top one you compensate for the washer and you can slide your clip on.

The only reason I used three was so they form a continous bushing up the shaft since you don't have the lip on the top preventing it from sliding down. I then applied some lithium grease on the outside of the bushings before slipping the bellcrank down in place.

BTW, it drives nice and smooth now. The mod really does work. It's a blast to drive now, nice and smooth.

Edited September 17, 2008 by JoelH

[WW2Winger]

Joel, this is the type of feedback that makes this forum so valuable. Thank you. Your fix makes perfect sense to me, now, all I have to do is find some more bushings. Thanks again!

[Carl Beck]

I'll just add this - but I think Joel's solution is better for most people.

In the original article, or in follow on questions - I don't remember which - the person that did the fix to begin with - cut a couple of slots in the top bushings lip - one on each side of the mount. Then drilled a very small hole though the mount, in the grove where the "C" clip was - and slipped a safety wire though - I suppose you could use a very thin cotter pin as well.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[WW2Winger]

Ok, I did It! I decided to grind off the welds that hold the upper arm, then rotate the arm and re-attach with a TIG welder. Then I cut the link arm and ran it through a die to extend the threads. This allowed me to shorten the link but use the stock plastic ball ends. This is where you have to be very careful. When changing this geometry, be sure that you can still idle and still have full open throttle without the bottom end of the bell crank hitting the firewall. Measure this very carefully, this rod lentgth is very critical. As advertised, this mod made a huge difference in the driveablility of my car. I can now accelerate from a stop without the infamous "jerk". Now I am the only "jerk" in the car.

[Travel'n Man]

Just wanted to pull up this thread to say that I completed a Lokar Universal Throttle Kit (LOK-TC-1000U) $36.95 install and all my slop from the linkage is gone as well as the throttle surge. I had to remove the accelerator pedal (3 screws) and drill out the linkage ball at the end. Connect one end of the Lokar kit. I used two washers to fill in the hole at the firewall. Dismantled the Lokar kit and pulled the cable all the way out - double checked my measurement and made my cuts - connected the end linkage to my carbs (make sure your carb linkage will marry). Make sure you have your cable end all the way in before you cut your cable or your cable will unravel a little bit (it makes for a cleaner job). You will need to add a support to keep things lined up and to give the throttle cable a support post. There are several fine tune adjustments to get your throttle cable snug but not too tight. It really ends up being a clean looking job. Time is approx 30 minutes. I'm keeping all my linkage and will put in storage.