Need help with rear suspension

[ddezso]

I am working on replacing struts and springs on my rear suspension and am having an issue getting started.

The fronts were nasty but not that bad. However the rears have what appears to be an anomolie. The transverse link bolt is supposed to have a lock bolt. Sounds easy enough, right. What we found was a nut. Upon removal of said nut the threads were left with no way to remove the headless bolt to release the transverse link bolt. If no solution is found we'll just button it up and let the pros have at it.

So, the question is: what's the best way to get that transverse link bolt Oughta' there.

What Gives????

[hls30.com]

The bolt will pop out if you tap the threaded end(the head of the bolt is wedge shaped with the smaller end at the threads) into the assembly.

I'll see about a picture.

You are not to the challenge of that area-the spindle pin(the part the bolt in question serves to set) is the real b!tch. Beandip has a laoner removal tool, and another member here sells them. Save you sanity, time frame and possible even the original spindle pin.

Will

[Arne]

I actually have beandip's loaner spindle pin puller right now. It works great.

As for the lock bolt, I'd actually call it more of a drift pin. It is tapered on one side to match a flat machined onto the spindle pin. I'd recommend having a spare or two on hand before you start driving it out, as chances are very good that you'll mess up the threads.

[240jetjoc]

Before tapping on the threaded end of the tapered pin, screw a nut part way on to protect the threads. Do not try to remove the spindle pins without the tool that hls30.com mentioned. Contact Beandip. I borrowed his spindle pin removal tool and it worked great on three Z's. When you re-install the spindle pins after a good cleaning, coat them with anti-seize to make future removal much easier.

[hls30.com]

PICS

Picture 1: Wedge shaped retainer bolt with a locating "flat" on it

Picture 2: Retainer and spindle pin

Picture 3: Interference fit of parts as installed.

Will

[beandip]

:classic: Before you go any farther with the project . If the pins are still as in the pictures . Spray the tapered pin well with Kroil or PB Blaster and set soak overnight. Do as jetjock said and put the nut on the pin and protect the threads , use a soft hammer like one of brass or lead . If neither are available use a piece of aluminum , hard wood , something to protect the pin . And tap it and it should dislodge. DO NOT try and beat the spindle pin to remove it. If you damage the ends then the puller will not be of any use to you. You are welcome to use the puller , send me a PM with your address and I will send it to you . I only require that you return it to me and pay my shipping cost . Which should be just over $8.00 . The spindle pins will be saved this wan and they run about $25.00 for new ones . It's your call . Gary:rambo:

[=Enigma=]

Score

--------

BFH = -$25 x 2 = -$50 (damaged spindle pins still stuck)

Spindle Pin Puller = $8

What I could have saved = $42 (if I got the spindle pin puller in the first place)

Thanks Beandip!!!

[Carl Beck]

Hi ddezso:

If you don't have a can or three of Kroil Penetrating Oil, get on-line and order it. Nothing, I repeat NOTHING works as well {not even close}. Spray the lock pin from the top and let it set a few minutes - Once you remove the lock pin, spray Kroil on both ends of the spindle pin, and into the hole the lock pin came out of. Spray it a couple of times per day for a couple of days if possible. Jack the car up from the rear one day, spray the Kroil into the shoulder of the spindle pin, and into the hole the lock pin came out of - and let it creep down into the transverse link over night.... reverse the next day.... jack the car up from the front...

Believe me when I tell you that this will make a huge difference in how easily the spindle pins come out {or not}.

For that matter - it's just as easy to drop the struts off the car, with the transverse link attached... lay the strut on it's side - and let the Kroil work it's way down the spindle pin and into the transverse link. The more and longer you can apply Kroil and let it soak in - the better off you'll be. Also, in extreme cases, if that spindle pin still won't budge - with the assembly off the car you can apply serious heat to the transverse link's outer housing around the spindle pin. {yes, I've had a few like that}.

See: <a href=http://kanolabs.com/ TARGET=NEW> Kano Laboratories </a>

I had two very very rusted nuts/bolts - in a lower front finisher panel {where the turn signals go}, from a parts car.... No one would ever expect to take them apart without twisting the bolts off, or rounding the nuts off... I took Kroil and spray it on one {the worse of the two because only part of the head of the bolt was still there}... and P.B. Blaster was sprayed on the other. I let them set over night - sprayed them both a second time and let them set over night again.

I put a socket and wrench on the one sprayed with PB Blaster - and promptly twisted the bolt in two. I put the socket and wrench on the one sprayed with Kroil - broke it lose and unscrewed it. My son was there at the time, and he couldn't believe that anything would work like that...

FWIW,

Carl B.

[ddezso]

You mention removing struts without disconnecting the transverse link. Is there a way for me to replace struts and springs without making this disconnection?

[thegetaway]

dicconnect parking brake bracket from control arm and it will drop down

[Sailor Bob]

I came across this issue last winter and it was far easier to remove the complete assembly. I am qualified to say this because I opened one at the spindle pin and the other at the inboard hinge. The (inboard) unit c/w T/L was trickier to manouver, but it was nothing compared to the time consumed opening the other. Yes - you can do it without removing the spindle pin - for certain on the passenger side. Driver side maybe trickier due to the tail pipe/ muffler occupying prime realestate (happens to be the side that I destroyed the spindle pin on .

[thegetaway]

I used this web page in removing my rear and front struts,but in the rear after disconnecting driveshaft I disconnected the parking brake bracket instead of the spindle,and it dropped down so I could work on my struts without removing the spindle http;//www.biopatent.com/struts.html