Looking for Security advice

[Mdalpoggetto]

Hey everybody,

Fisrt of all thanks for the welcome mat! More pictures to follow eventually.

Question 1: I know that the Z is very easy to steal. Tomorrow I will have LoJack installed, but am wondering what you do to keep the curious and stupid out of your car? Looking for the most preferred security system.

Question 2: Own a very original Z that is a rare find - I want to respect the originality, but at the same time I want to add some speed. Curious what you think about pulling all original (saving to return to original one day) and replacing with performance engine etc without any modifications to structure.

Buying a second car is not an option just because I have no place to put it.

Thanks for the feedback. Take care

[hls30.com]

I think several of us are going that way.

I am all for mods that can be undone in a couple of afternoons and make the car even more enjoyable. I have a completely restored original drive train for my car for the days when a pristine '72 is valuable and rare, until then, I have a 5 speed and an L28ET waiting for me to paint the car.

Be aware storing an engine safely does not involve tarps and the far corner of the back yard.

Will

[zbane]

I think one of the simpler ways to deter theft would be to install a battery disconnect switch. While most of these devices are located around the battery, I think it might be possible to set up a system where the switch is located in an easier to reach (yet concealed) location, say under the dash.

Just an idea, nothing more.

Welcome to the club.

[=Enigma=]

I am VERY interested in hearing more about this topic from those with personal experience. What makes the Z easy to steal? What have others done to commpensate for this or correct the problems? What theft deterrent devices or practices work best for our cars? I truly believe personal experience is more valuable here than speculation so let's try to stick to that if we can.

[Arne]

FWIW, here are my thoughts:

Question 1: My car is garaged and will seldom be out unsupervised. Therefore I am not all that concerned about theft-deterrents, and will not adding alarms, Lojack, immobilizers, etc., partly due to concerns listed in the next paragraph. But in answer to Enigma's question, the security of the 240Z (like most any car from this era) is not great. Locks were pretty wimpy even when new, and most of them are essentially "one-key-fits-all" by now. The cars are fairly easy to get into, and once inside the car, even if the ignition switch is still good, give me 5-10 minutes with a Phillips screwdriver and a cordless drill and I'll have the ignition lock removed, the car started and be gone.

Question 2: Mdalpoggetto, your car and mine are very similar - I have a '71 with less than 60,000 miles that is also virtually all original. It is my intention to do nothing to my car that can't be easily reversed with no after-effects at all. But I do think that in general, cars that have survived this long in stock, unmodified condition should be kept that way. Because there are darned few of them left, and as their custodians I feel we are obligated to try to maintain that originality as much as is possible. There are plenty of modified 240Zs out there, from mild to wild. But not very many stock examples are left...

[hls30.com]

If a 240Z is stock and in a decent state of tune it can be started in less tha 10 seconds with pocket change.-I aint posting the instructions for thieves, but a moving the battery inside the car and a battery disconnect stop that cold. Leaviing it visabley in gear will also stop anyone who understands how this works-or hospitalize anyone who doesn't

Will

[ZIII]

Like Arne, I never leave the car unsupervised. First, I live in El Paso and the border is like, right there, and you can practically see the chop shops from this side. However, there are times when I am off to car shows etc., where I will spend the night at a motel. This is nerve racking for me. It’s gotta be the “right” hotel. Nothing to do with how much it costs but everything to do with what the parking area looks like. Then, the drill starts. I have a battery disconnect switch with key mounted on the firewall. Then the rotor comes out. Then the fuel pump fuse comes out. Then the coil to dizzy wire comes out. Now all I have to worry about is it being lifted on a flatbed and that alone keeps me up most of the night.

[BD240Z]

Michael,

Once completed, my car will be driven regularly, I'll use it to keep the miles off my daily driver. This means it will be left exposed so I'm also going to have Lojack installed. I feel that if someone takes it I'll have a better chance of getting it back. My wife and I have Lojack in three of our other cars so I'll be getting a discount on this one. We also get a small discount on our insurance.

I've worked hard at restoring my car and I've kept it as OE as possible. When it finally gets on the road, I'll have it appraised and I'll ask my insurance agent for a "Stated Value" policy based upon that appraisal. The money is one thing, but if my car gets stolen, I would prefer to get it back rather than getting insurance money for it.

In addition to the Lojack, my neighbor is going to wire my car with a cutoff switch. I have no details on this and yes I trust him. I'll also use a Club. I know that if someone really wants it, they'll take it regardless of what I do. I'm just going to make it more difficult on them.

Bruce

[240ZMan]

Michael, On question 2, there's no reason why you couldn't put a mildly built L28 w/5 speed and appropriate diff in, upgrade front brakes, and springs, struts, and bars. If done with care, nothing would require you to cut anything, so you could always take it all off and put back to stock. The difference in its level of performance would be huge. Of course, you have to decide if the extra performance is worth the time and cost for yourself.

For me, I've done all of the above and also the rear disc brake swap. That one can't be so easily undone, and unless you track it hard, isn't necessary. It's a very different car now, much more of what I wanted. But I'm sure there are some who would say that I've comprimised the ride too much. It's a very personal thing, and only you can decide what the right balance of performance vs. comfort vs. originality is right for you.

[Ed]

A theft deterent device needs to be convienient for you and difficult for the would be thief. Pulling your battery, removing the steering wheel, large locks, etc... while useful they are inconvienient.

Your driving along and you stop at a store to get a cold drink or a pack of smokes. Are you going to put on your "Club" or use your battery cut-off switch? Probably not. Even if you have an ignition cut-off switch you probably won't activate it for just a 2 minute stop. Most would be thiefs are opportunistic if it takes more than a few minutes then they will most likely give up. On the other hand if someone wants YOUR car then no matter what you do it's gone. Like previously mentioned it takes about 10 seconds to steal a car.

Lo-Jack is great if you notice your car has been stolen within 30 minutes or less. If you park your car overnight and the thief has had a few hours with your car then then there probably won't be much left. Lo-jack is not supported in all cities. Up here in western NY we don't have it.

[BD240Z]

Lo-Jack is great if you notice your car has been stolen within 30 minutes or less.

Yep, agree completely. If you're going to the trouble and expense of getting Lojack, get the "Early Warning Recovery System". It lets you know right away if your car is being driven by someone who shouldn't be. My notification is via my cell phone which is on 24 hours a day.

Bruce

[V8-240Z]

The easy way to do the battery disconnect is with a Intellitec latching relay. http://www.mastertech-inc.com/intellitec/batt_disconnect_relay.html This is not a starter relay, it disconnects the battery with the flip of a switch or reconnects the battery with a flip of the switch. The only power used is momentary when connecting or disconnecting the battery. These are $50 and can be mounted by the battery with the on/off control wires that can be 16ga going to a toggle switch in the car. These work well and can replace the standard battery disconnect rotary switch that is used.