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Floor pans tar removal question? and other stuff ...


280z1975

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Thanks for the great ideas. I can get Dry Ice just down the road at the local grocery store and it should make for things going a whole lot easier for removal.

Now once I remove all this tar/sound insulation, would some Por-15 and then soundproofing material (B-quiet Extreme (aka brown bread) be a sutable replacement?

What j hammer and Mike said is true . One vary important thing with POR is no moisture and no oil of any kind. Be absolutly sure there is no moisture or the POR will foam and not seal off the metal .

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Sorry to be off-topic...

Jackhammer, what kind of insulation are you using? How heavy is it? Costly?

Thanks,

Steve

What I was installing this past weekend was a generic Dyna-Mat like

product. It's a 60 mil. rubber mat (closed cell) with a aluminum foil on one side and adhesive on the other. Ebay has several sellers that sell it...it's about a $1.00 a square foot.

In addition to that I first applied a gal. of the Dupli-Color Truck bed liner to the floor and inside the doors. I will finish it with a couple of layers of 3/8" thick aluminum laminated fiber padding.

Hopefully... that will be enough so that I only hear a nice low mellow rumble of the pipes.

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I got new floors from ZEDD FINDINGS, they are excellent. After they were welded in, I cleaned the area with wax/grease remover, then etched the metal with METALREADY (from the por-15 guys) then cleaned again with the por-15 cleaner (marine clean?), then I por-15'd the underside AND topside of the floor pans. It is noticeable where a drop of sweat fell on the por-15, theres a big bubble there now. Im going to use the por-15 tie-coat primer on the underside then use some sort of coating on top of that I guess. Por-15 is excellent, but it is runny and the surface must be bone dry. I needed 2 coats, but follow the directions to a T. I'll post pictures of the process soon in my galley.

Zak

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Im going to use the por-15 tie-coat primer on the underside then use some sort of coating on top of that I guess. Por-15 is excellent' date=' but it is runny and the surface must be bone dry. I needed 2 coats, but follow the directions to a T. I'll post pictures of the process soon in my galley.

Zak[/quote']

I used the tie-coat on my project as well. I could not imagine sanding the entire Por-15'd bottom and inside so that something else would stick.

Something I would do differently in the future would be to apply the Por-15 Rust Preventative with a paint sprayer. I brushed it on and sprayed the Tie-Coat and the Por-15 Chassis Coat and the results were better. Should you decide to spray on the Tie Coat I found thinning to 30% with Xylene was best. The instructions say 10%. Trust me 30% is best.

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