Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,556 topics in this forum
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My son's '77 280Z is still on it's way to becoming a daily driver...long, slow process. First we tackled the fuel system (cleaned, sealed tank, new fuel pump, good pressure 40psi to rail, new injectors). Then we replaced all vacuum hoses, cleaned all electrical connections, etc. The car RUNS but there is no power. I thought maybe I had no COMPRESSION, but today I did a compression test and came out with what seems like good compression: (1=150, 2=155, 3=160, 4=150, 5=155, 6=150). The spark plugs were black with carbon and somewhat oily. When it does run it burns a bit of oil. If you have a suggestion I am all ears. Otherwise, I wondered how to: set the prope…
Last reply by 77-Z, -
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Hello I just rebuilt my top end and have a good amount of blue smoke. It did not smoke prior to the top end rebuild. I installed a high capicity oil pump when I rebuilt adds about 15 to 20% more oil. Could this be the cause of the blue smoke. Am I flooding the engine with too much oil. The engine is stock. Thanks Glenn
Last reply by zdude1967, -
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I'm not sure if this is the right section for this thread…but anyhow. I'm replacing the fuel pump on a 76 280z. Picked up the Airtex electronic pump yesterday. I guess my question is what are some other things I should look out for, or clean up, while doing this job. So far I plan on dropping the fuel tank, cleaning up that, as well as the straps. Replacing the hoses to and from the fuel tank, fuel pump and expansion tank. Also the in line fuel filter. What am I missing? John
Last reply by JohnnyP, -
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I have a slow leak at the drain plug and can't get it to stop. I have already tried to use some teflon tape and tighten it a bit more, but it has only slowed it down. The other problem is that 5th gear pops out as soon as I let out the clutch. All the other gears engage quickly and smoothly. There isnt a clearance problem for the shift lever. It will stay engaged if there isn't a load on the drivetrain...i.e. driveshaft disconnect or the wheels off the ground. I read that there is a roll pin or something that can pop out, but I can't find the thread here or on hybridz. Is anyone familiar with this problem? THanks
Last reply by hogie, -
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Hi all, I have an old Nissan Comp (P/N 38351-P9010K) R200 Finned Cover I am about to put into service, however it did not come with literature, nor does the Nissan Comp parts catalog that I have list what I need. I'm looking for the thread size of the two fluid holes at the back of the cover where you should connect the -8 oil lines to diff pump & cooler. Can someone confirm if they are indeed M16x1.5? I've got nothing in my box of fittings that is remotely close & so I need to buy a new pair of straight AN adapters. Thanks, -e
Last reply by EricB, -
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hello, i am new to the Z car, my dad just gave me one. . plz help, my dad pulled the starter off a few months ago, today i went and purchased a new one and put it in (really easy it was only a few bolts) but i have no idea what wires run to it and on which terminal they run to!!!! any help please please!! i ran to a few local auto stores for a manual but no one had one so im waiting about a week for one to come. hopefully someone can help me out before it comes, thanks.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I'm going back to the early transmission style and as I was prepping it in anticipation of getting my engine re-installed (throw out bearing, collar,lever and assorted springs) I noticed that the later dust boot is way too large to re-use. My question is , are there any other differences I need to be aware of, like flywheel bushing sizes or anything else that might make me crazy that I can deal with now while its on the bench. Thanks All, H Houghton
Last reply by vercingetorix, -
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I decided to pull my rocker cover this afternoon to see what's what before I pull the engine for a refresh later this year. Everything looked pretty good to my untrained eye. I'm trying to figure out if the motor has ever been apart before or if it has been modified by the PO. 1. Does anyone know if the sealant around this plug looks like it would from the factory or is this evidence of a rebuild? 2. The cam bearing caps have an "A" on them. Is this done at the factory? 3. The cam has red paint on it. Factory?
Last reply by steve91tt, -
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So I finally found some time today to put in my new rear end today. Or at least attempt to. It's a 260z, and i got the halfshafts disconnected from the diff, then dropped out the diff. Here's where my problems come in. Part of the reason for picking up the "new to me" rear end is because my u-joints are shot and I found a guy with the rear end with halfshafts with really good condition u-joints for just a few bucks more than buying new u-joints. But now I can't get the halfshaft disconnected from the wheel side, and I pulled the four bolts that seem to be the only connection. I'm hoping that this is an idiotic answer. But it doesn't look like there's anything else…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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Hi guys, I have a UK spec 1978 260z 2+2. A friend of mine took the car out one day and called me after parking it up for an hour saying he couldn't get it started as the battery had drained. We jump started the car but it was misfiring and barely running. I drove it home where it languished while life, work and other cars got in the way. Recently, I got some enthusiasm to get the car back up and running. I've done the following with some significant improvement, but it's still misfiring: New condenser New spark plugs New coil & ballast resistor New points (in bad need of replacement) Set timing Checked Valves move up and down as they should All HT leads are sending a …
Last reply by Markb, -
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Hey guys, I am assembling my rebuilt engine and I had a question. In which position should the cam shaft pulley be in? There is a 1, 3, or 3. What should be facing up? If my cylinder No.1 is all the way at the top, and my pulley is at 0, what should my cam shaft pulley be at? If you have pictures or something that will make it easily identifiable then I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
Last reply by motorman7, -
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My local Nissan dealer told me that Nissan/Datsun half-shaft u-joint model number 37126-VB925 is no longer available. Most of the posts that I have read recommended Nissan/Datsun u-joints over all other brands. Now that thye are unavailable what is the next best brand and model number for the half-shafts that I should purchase for my 1971 Datsun 240Z?
Last reply by erectorset,
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