Suspension & Steering
Post your questions and answers about these major components of the Zcar and anything related.
2,200 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
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Just thought I'd give the group a "heads up". I was browsing the Nissan Surplus OEM guy's ebay store and noticed he was selling manual Maxima steering racks complete with the outer tie rods for $100! He has 8 of them. Seems like a screaming deal, hopefully it can be used in the S30 cars, just going off my memory but it looks identical. If they are the same it's my guess they're of the same design as the later 74-78 racks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Maxima-Steering-Gear-Linkage-OEM-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33589QQihZ014QQitemZ330210004813
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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Hi guys! I have a question, I had new OEM (Rubber) bushings pressed into my Front suspension arm. So i finally bolted it in to the chassis (but NOT yet bolted to the balljoint or anything else). The car`s sidemembers are on jackstands, so the suspension arm is just DANGLING. I`m aware that you only do the final torqueing once everything is bolted on with 2 passengers in the car, so i just tightened the big bolt-nut going through the bushings maybe 20 lbs or so. I then pushed the arm upward and let it go down, i repeated this a few times and felt some "elastic" resistance (binding?) each time i pushed it upward. So is this "elastic" resistance normal (i assum…
Last reply by PATZ, -
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Hi guys! NO, this ISNT another question about how to remove bushings from the FRONT suspension arm (Transverse control arm). The problem is that i tried removing the big bolt that connects the suspension arm to the chassis, but then the INNER sleeve got stuck on the bolt and the rubber just got all ripped up (so i just torched the rubber off), so the INNER sleeve is now acting as a stopper of sorts preventing the bolt from going out even after giving the nut end(nut removed of course) a few whacks with a hammer! Earlier on i put a vise grip on the INNER sleeve with just enough grip (too much and i might deform the sleeve and make it even tighter) so i could …
Last reply by gotswap, -
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The PO of my newly aquired Z said the rack & pinion was out on this car. He has taken out some of the bolts and says I must lift the motor off the mounts to finish taking rack out. Is this true? He says it shimmys so bad it slings the PS fluid out. Can anyone help with the removal of rack and pinion. Are there things I should watch out for? Any help would be appreciated.
Last reply by 81 ZXT, -
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Hi guys! I finally got my front suspension arm(track control arm) off and just had the new bushings pressed in. So now with the Radius rod(compression rod), Outer tierod and Stabiliser bar and suspension arm DISCONNECTED but with the strut-hub-drum assembly still connected to the Driveshaft, can i "properly"(backyard mechanic style) check the condition of my Balljoints without having to put everything back together with the wheels on? I simply held the flat plate end (with mounting holes) of the balljoint and started moving it around (no i dont have any kind of gauge for checking play) and compared it with a NEW aftermarket balljoint, and it felt about the sam…
Last reply by PATZ, -
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Hello all! I`d like to disconnect my outer tierod from the spindle as part of a procedure to remove my front suspension arm. Thus, i plan on using the tierod again. This is my first time to do this by the way. I`ve read some of the threads on outer tie rod removal using only a hammer to vibrate the tierod end loose from the spindle, i`m aware of the pickle fork and the tierod remover but really would rather go the ULTRA cheap method with a heavy hammer. I read that you dont hit the tierod itself or the tierod arm, that you hit the one the tierods connect to (Spindle/steering knuckle). Now to my question, does it matter wether i hit the spindle from above or…
Last reply by peterc, -
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I noticed that my back right tire is slightly turned inwards. Also, the back right part of the car is also lower than the left side. I think the shocks are on their way out but I am not sure. I really don't know much about suspension. Could this be bad suspension, or just an alignment necessary. Would you suggest DIY for replacing shocks/springs? I can take pictures if necessary. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Last reply by mikewags, -
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Hi guys! This will be the first time i`l be doing this, so pls bear with me.I would like to renew my 240Z REAR suspension arm bushings(forward and rear lower control arm bushings) with OEM rubber that i already have (i woulda gone poly, but not in these here parts!). From what i`ve read i would rather leave the SPINDLE pin portion of the suspension arm alone if i dont find any real noticeable play in the wrong planes of movement. I`ve only looked around under the car without jacking up the 240z. Yes i`ve read through an amount of the threads on REAR suspension arm removal (also called a Transverse link right?) as well as having the Haynes manual. I just neede…
Last reply by PATZ, -
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I am having a tough time getting the lock nut loose on the Passenger or right tie rod. I know the driver side has left hand threads. PB for 2 days, heat, the usual tricks but still no budging. any ideas? Nuts taking a beating
Last reply by BOMBAYBOB, -
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So I just opened the box from MSA and the Eibach pro Rate springs are WAY Shorter than stock. The 260Z springs are 15.5 inches tall (all 4, unmounted) The new Eibachs are..... Fronts.. (189710) (6303.001) is only 10.75" tall ( 4.75" shorter than stock Rears....(189712) (6303.002) is only 12.625" Tall ( 2-7/8" shorter than stock) Is this correct? Are the fronts springs supposed to be almost 5" shorter than stock? And if they are, how does this only drop the car 1" to 1.5" ????????? I'm don't want to install them until I hear from someone who has dealt with this before and can reassure that I'm not crazy. Please help before I get overambitious and instal them jus…
Last reply by Arne, -
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Hi friends, on top of most oem suspension's bolts there are numbers like 6, 7, 8 or 9. .I assume these are indicating the strength of the bolts. Unfortunately I can't find out how these numbers match the ISO-Standards where for metric screws/bolts are defined by 5.8, 6.8, 8.8, 9.8 or 10.9. Does someone of you know the "translation" ? What for instance is the quality of the 4 bolts that fix the rear crossmember to the link mount brace and the 4 bolts that fix the link mount brace to the body ? I think too weak bolts are dangerous, esp. at the suspension ! Thank you in advance Rolf
Last reply by John Coffey, -
- 27 replies
- 3.9k views
The car has new poly bushes all around. New LEAD coilover. The car is droped +- 2 in front and 1.5 in the rear. Std front sway bar, no rear sway bar. Tires are Kenda 205x65x14 My setting are: Front Camber left 0°46 - right 0°39 Caster left 1°57 - right 2°31 Toe left 0°03 - right 0°03 Rear Camber left 0°03 - right -0°11 Toe left 0°13 - right 0°04 I have the MSA front and rear camber kit on my shelves should I use it? The car is for Sunday spirited driving, and track days!
Last reply by Caen Fred,
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