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@URGELIS double spit! Looks like something off "truth social". 🤣🤣🤣 He must have read the book.

Hazard switch test: Remove the hazard switch. Use the ohmmeter function on the meter. (I hope it's not just a voltmeter.) Look at which pins correspond to the green/blue, green/red, and green black wires. Turn the hazard switch on. Measure the resistance between the pins that line up to the green/blue and green/red wires on the dash harness. (Note, the switch may have wires with different colors.) Record the result. Measure the resistance between the pins that line up to the green/blue and green/black wires on the dash harness. Record the result. Report the results of this test. Turn signal test: Put your meter on DC voltage. Reinstall the hazard switch and ensure it is off. Turn the key to ON. You don't need to start the car. Find the flasher relay that has a green/yellow wire and white wire running to it. Disconnect the flasher relay. Measure voltage to ground at the green/yellow wire. Record the result and report your reading.

I just grasped what you were saying here. Your first post was caused by putting the phone on your Hazard switch. Which has identified a Hazard switch problem (maybe) since all of the lights should have been flashing. Your second problem, which is apparently new, is that your turn signal doesn't seem to work at all. That could be caused by the turn signal switch in the combo switch itself, or the flasher, or the fuses. How long have you had the car? Was everything working correctly before you put your phone on the Hazard switch?

Current symptoms: I do not have a right or left blinker when I use the turn signal. The outside turn signals and the dash indicator do not go on for either direction. When I put on the Hazard switch, only the left side of the car flashes. Yes, I do have a voltage meter. Yes, I did plug the Hazard switch back in before diagnosing. The left blinker no longer stays on when key is off because I turned Hazard switch off.

I think that's Al Allen, aka URGELIS.

Was the hazard switch plugged in when you tested? Flasher units? You probably need to test the hazard switch. Do you know how to use a multimeter?

Not really clear what the "current" problem is. Blinker won't go off would be a short to power problem. Blinker doesn't work at all would be an open circuit problem. Also not clear what you mean by "Both blinkers don't work (lights and dash indicators) ". Just trying to understand. The Hazard switch has a left and right circuit and its own power supply and flasher to flash the lights. I think that it could have been the source of the first problem. Does the left blinker still stay on when the key is off?

First of all, thank you for all the amazing and detailed information. Apologies for the slow response. I had a bunch of trips. So here is where I am at. Half idiot and half mystery. Idiot part-I put my phone on the Hazard light and defroster switches and turned them on. Hazards on wasn't my first instinct, because only one side was blinking. So I started diagnosing it as a blinker problem. After I disconnected the Hazard Unit to prevent it from draining the battery, the defroster still managed to kill the battery becasue I hadn't figured out it was me hitting the switches yet. So next step, solve dead battery problem. Mystery part- Both blinkers don't work (lights and dash indicators) now when actuated by the turn signal stalk. But the left one is the only one that works when the hazards are on (still does that . Fuse is good, bulbs are good. I checked the stalk before like I said and it seemed good. I can take it out again and do a pin out with an ohm meter next. Open to suggestions. Thanks, Adam

A true beast, so very well thought out. Awesome work! Safari Gold rules!!!

Thanks Guy, but I am disinclined to follow someone else's work in this case. In his ebay post I noted that he "modified" plastic connectors and the metal base. With all of the switches I have refurbed I have not yet found a need to modify the OE components - sometimes replaced with new or from the parts bin but never modified.

I'm older than that and I still work properly! Sometimes...Sort of...;)

@jfa.series1 can fix you up…..right Jim? Can’t understand why these things don’t work properly….they’re only 54 years old.

Daniel Parsignault is Datsuniverse and he's been an eBay player for a long time. I have sold him things and have bought a few things. I liken him California Datsun for "rebuilt parts" That is just my opinion of course.

So, can we think up some simple tests to run, maybe at the flasher or the plug itself, that might show low resistance through the turn signal circuit? Or high resistance at the contacts. Any chance the flasher itself is pulling too much current? Or do we just assume that the cleaning and modification was not well done? Seems like the sliding contacts must have got gummed up. This is actually datsuniverse writing -

Sounds like he's from the Al Allen school of parts restoration.

I found a "restored" listing. https://ebay.us/m/4gvALW

Electrical principles can be difficult. datsununiverse might be more of a mechanical person. If he cleaned up the switch and rerturned it that seems fair. Sounds like he's saying that he doesn't really know what went wrong. People often get voltage and current mixed up. I found his eBay store front but don't see a web site. Can't tell what "rebuilt" means. https://www.ebay.com/str/datsuniverse

There's some BS going on here. 13Ax14V=182W. I'm not sure whose backside produced a 13A figure. There are 2 (two/dos/zwei) 23W bulbs and a 3W bulb (on the gauge) in the circuit. Please invite the person who gave you that response to come here and show the testing. Until proved otherwise, I posit that someone is covering up for shoddy work. I am interested if someone can make me eat my words. I'll see if I can set up my scope with ammeter to look for transients that even come close to 13A

Per the recommendations from @Zed Head , here are two excellent upgrades you can make to improve your lighting situation: Headlight relay kit: https://www.thezstore.com/product/3861/headlight-relay-upgrade-harness-70-73-240z Parking light relay kit: https://www.thezstore.com/product/5031/parking-light-upgrade-harness-70-73-240z Take note of the fitment limitation regarding the Parking Light kit for the '73 240Z. Another improvement you can make is to switch out all of your small exterior bulbs to 3W LEDs. This would be front parking and turn signal, sidemarkers, rear tail light and brake, license. If you do so, rememebr to use LEDs that are the same color as the lens cover. If making this change for the turn signals, you will also need to swtich the OE flasher cans for the turn signals and hazard switch to aftermarket electro/mechanical units, a easy plug-and-play change. Your turn signal issues are possibly caused by the heat from high resistance in your wiring circuits: corroded bulb sockets, fouled terminals in the wiring, damage at the fuse block (check the underside), damaged wiring. Hope some of this helps.

Such a clean engine bay. Just stunning!

Hi @HusseinHolland! Any updates on this project? Curious, if you finished the 350z tranny adaptation in your 1st gen.

Happy to join conversations, exchange ideas, and gain fresh perspectives throughout the journey. I enjoy hearing diverse viewpoints and contributing whenever I can. Always open to different experiences and connecting with others. Here's my site-AutoMisto24 https://automisto24.com.ua/

Thanks Marty…….The Z31 is amazing…..Brandon didn’t miss a beat! Pit and Paddock shot a poster of the 300.

I haven't seen much about turn signal contact pitting in my time browsing the Z car WWW. The headlight and running lights have a problem for sure, melting/breaking solder joints and burning contacts in the switch, but a turn signal switch problem I've not seen. But, the cure for the headlight and running lights problem is a relay so if your switch works and you want to avoid the problem in the future a relay would be a good idea. I haven't looked at a 73 wiring diagram closely but I'd think a relay in front of the flasher should get it done. I tried to take a look at the wiring diagram in the 73 FSM but, wow, it's hard to look at. Can't tell which side is the power supply side but a meter would solve that problem. On the other hand though, what datsun universe seems to be saying is that your turn signal lights were pulling too much current, causing the contacts to pit and overheat. Somebody handy with a meter might be able to test the possibility. If you did have a high voltage problem it would manifest in many other places also, so "high voltage" doesn't really make sense. In short, your problem is kind of unusual. Hope my thoughts help a little bit.

Pace yourself guys!