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Sigh. Of course you did. Right after I did this: Yes... Before you ask. Yes, I made the little plastic washers.

Sent you a PM.

I made it back into the shop again, finally. I got a batch of clear zinc back from the platers and went through and reworked some door latches. I used the kits that Steve Nixon sells for the rubber bits inside the latch. I also bought a couple of spring assortments because one of the latches was missing the return spring Interestingly I have two different styles of latch. I have the style with the coiled return spring and then I have one latch that has the two flat springs in it. The one with two flat springs has a small notch on either side of the latch arm slot. Steve's rubber parts are designed for this style of lock. On the other locks I had to take a little rubber out of the semi circular pieces to make them fit properly and I glued them in place with some black super glue There are also three squarish rubber pieces that fit over the ends of the arms to cushion them The hardest ones to get on are the one that go on the door striker. There is very little little clearance to get the one side in Here are my two styles side by side. Maybe someone else can add some info on when these parts changed? Even the flat spring on the latch pawl is a different design between the two... I also put the dovetail on the edges of the doors and the spring loaded door poppers into the door jambs. Minimal progress but something. Now that I have the latches back, I can work on assembling the rest of the doors and glass

Checking on my vin 740 shows the same apparently un-used black wire…… Looks clean as a whistle inside the protective sleeve…. Like the above mentioned previous picture Was folded for extended time …..

I thought I posted this up already but I didn't see them over the last few pages... I had to trim the ears on the R200 diff for a little more clearance on the new SS exhaust This is an untrimmed side Trimmed I made a bracket to connect to the mid span support on the top of the new exhaust. It will attached under the diff arrestor strap nut Template Under the car Finished

@Captain Obvious I found the screws for the front turn signals today in the shop

I worked on Cody's car some Friday Hung the header, intake manifold and carbs The header is a pretty tight fit! I still need to come up with a way to hold the parking brake cable over Got the radiator in and have the alternator most of the way in

I have a bunch of wires in the center, right above the tranny tunnel, that are connected to nothing. Can someone help with identifying what each of these should be connected to? Here are several pictures I just took. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AtbSgkaMo9Fm5uT8A

Does anyone have the PROPER way to connect the under dash electronic fuel pump wiring in a 240Z? For testing purposes the connection in this picture (green and black/white wires) was jumpered and it worked. Being that there is a molex plug here there must be more to wiring it up properly. I've been told that the factory had it wired to the oil pressure gauge so that if the car lost oil pressure it would stop the fuel pump.

Brake spring installation Rev 2.0. Thanks for the input @Captain Obvious

RESTORATION PROJECT DONE & CLEARING OUT THE SHED. NO REASONABLE CASH OFFER REFUSED. L26 Motor with E88 Head- 074185 4 Speed Transmission - Likely L4W71B Aluminum Radiator Door Window Frames (L & R) Fiberglass Headlight Scoops (L&R) R-200 Differential 4:11 R180 Differential 3:36 2-Hitachi 3 screw Carburetors (HJG46W?) Mounted to N36 Intakes NEW - 2 each 12" Electric Fans with Controller Set of 4 - 280ZX Wheels Front Bumper with Valence Panel - Good Condition Rear Bumper - Bumper Ends Good Center Poor Full Sets of Windshield and Rear Deck Glass Stainless Trim Grille Front Valence Pieces New Rubber Weatherstrip - Window Glass Run, Rear Deck Glass, 1/4 Window, Cowl to Hood Windshield Passenger Window Glass 1970 Deck Glass with Vertical Defroster Wires TOO MANY MORE VARIOUS PARTS TO LIST!!

That boss could be a surface for locating the part in a machining fixture.

I had knee surgery and am starting to fool around with my Zs. The carbed 240 was a little more trouble to start. I think the bowls had evaporated all the fuel out. For some reason I decided to hit my precious carburetors with a small tack hammer. The lord only knows how many have dents from being hit, trying to knock the floats loose. Well I saw the most obvious thing ever before I started whalopping the sides of my float bowls. Is there a chance in hell Skinner Union or Hitachi put this boss there for any other reason? I tapped them both a couple of times without leaving any marks and that little baby roared to life after getting a flow of fuel. Could Skinner Union/Hitachi have some foward thinking or did they just put a big chunk of aluminum to show the fuel level?

Gotcha. Well that explains the "newness" of the connector, but I still don't know what the intent of that wire was. Still the only real idea I have is that it was intended to be a ground connection to the antenna. I'm thinking maybe they thought they might need to make that connection to the antenna, but then decided they didn't need it? I haven't yet dug into that corner of the car I have here, but I should be doing that soon. It's a mid-70 car, and I doubt I have that wire, but I will check when I get there.

Regarding the spade connector on the black wire, I replaced the original with a new terminal. There is an earlier picture of this section that shows the original, although the cover is so dark that the terminal type is not clearly visible. Typically, I replace all terminals and their respective covers and most connector bodies on all of the harnesses.

Thanks for the picture on the spring installation. I will make sure to correct that.

And I have no idea at this point what that black wire is on your harness. Interesting that the spade connector on it appears new? At least newer than the bullet connectors just upstream. And not only does it appear newer than the rest, but it is the spade style intended to be used in a plastic connector shell. You can see the retainer tab on the face of the brass contact. Usually if the spade was not used in a connector housing, they used a style that did not have that retainer tab. Seems really unusual, or unlikely, but what are the chances that a previous owner made a modification to the harness to add that wire? I got nuthin'. I also find it interesting that your front calipers don't have a date stamp. We talked about caliper date codes a little while ago, and I wanted to see if yours lined up with the theories we discussed in that thread. But yours don't seem to have the same markings. Here's the caliper date code thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68569-caliper-date-codes/

Haha!! Thanks for the pic. And I'm glad you put one up. because..... Respectfully submitted, your springs are on wrong. I made up a cheat sheet last time I was into mine:

I seem to remember when an Aerovault was $11K... Bring a Trailer2024 Aerovault MkII LT TrailerBid for the chance to own a 2024 Aerovault MkII LT Trailer at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #194,177.

My guess is it will stay at $71, 970, but you never know. Just like houses here, bidding wars can get nuts.

Looks good

Does anybody want to guess on the final bid then? Will it break 100?

I have to guess then that this auction is for a select crowd that already knows that. I looked through all of the paperwork and the description and don't see Chuck's Frame Shop mentioned anywhere. Seems like it would be worth advertising. There is a Chuck mentioned, findable if a person looks closely, in one of the images. I guess that people in the resto world would know about him. It's a fascinating world. I don't live in it but it's fun to watch.

Hi Zed…..No, Chuck’s Frame Shop is a restoration shop…..mostly Porsches. He did two of my cars….both took two years. He, in my opinion is the absolute best…..no corners ever cut. I also use him for other items like spoilers…front and rear and he took the side panel strip off my silver 73 and matched the original paint to perfection. I don’t know the seller, but the owner is a good friend and never lets price get in the way of a great restoration. Here are a couple Chuck did for me.

Just for clarification, the transmission info on page 7 has no relevance to this thread. We will use the original stock transmission for this build. Thanks for the info on the antenna. I added a couple pics for reference. I do not think it is an antenna ground wire as it is very long. It extends approximately 20" beyond the antenna power wires. Also, it breaks out at the junction of the speaker wires and left signal lamp. I can confirm that the wire is black, so most likely a ground. It also has a heavy black shielding over it, so maybe it was intended to pass through the body to something near the fuel tank. Interesting. Also added a pic showing the 10/69 date of the harness. Added a pic of the rear break springs installed just for the Captain 😊 I rebuilt the front brake calipers with new seal rubber, retainers and pads. I cleaned them up first and then hit them with a clear coat to prevent future rust. (Notice the ones on the current 1970 BAT car). I then installed them on the front stuts so they will be ready to install once the body shows up. The body shop work is progressing, always the long pole. The passenger side rear quarter panel has been welded in place. Right front section behind fender has also been replaced, battery tray removed and holes plugged on right fender that once supported the aftermarket AC. The rear hatch has been installed and the flanges that attach to the hinges have been welded up. Next to be installed will be the lower rear panel. And, once the rotisserie is free, the new floor panels will be installed.