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Hi WolfZee, A transaction is in progress. If anything should change, I will let you know.

I reconnected the hose to the number 6 I take runner port, which is where I had it before. Right now I think my brake issues are being caused by air in the system, specifically in the MC. I’ve bless it three times and, even though the pedal is nice and firm when I finish, by the time I get it back on the ground it’s soft again, boost or no boost. I also noticed my rear calipers are getting a sheen of brown so I am going to pull them to be painted since I’m going to have to bleed this thing again anyway.

I purchased one for my 78 and it’s more intricate than a 240 and it works perfectly. I’m very surprised he would say it was hit or miss.

It would be nice if they had those in stock. Matt over there said the aftermarket ones are hit or miss.

Z Car Depot IncFuel Tank Gauge Sending Unit Sender 240Z 260Z 280Z 70-78Fuel Tank Sending Unit Gauge OEM 240Z 70-73 Datsun 240Z Fuel Sending unit.

I was afraid I'd see a number like that. Maybe I should clean up my old original

Nissan still sells the sending unit, but WOW they have gone up in price. I picked up mine for around $225.00.

I now have a new gas tank from S30 and would like to add a new quality sending unit. Any assistance someone in our group can provide will be greatly appreciated. Cheers. I'd also like to replace the four rubber pads between the body and the tank

Hello, I've received a nice new fuel tank from S30 world. Now I'm looking for a new sending unit for that tank. I also need the four rubber pads that I can't seem to get from Chris at S30. Any direction you can point me will be appreciated

Please let me know if this is available. I am in Cumming, but will be in Marietta Thursday evening. I can pick it up then.

You think the brake issues are related to the balance tube? What are you doing instead for brake vacuum if you aren't using this balance tube?

@Mike This bot is still at it. I hit "report" on this thread and the previous one as well.

Makes sense!

Hello everyone. I thought I would make the first post here. I am back in a 240z, again. This is actually the car I learned to drive in 36 years ago. My father bought it new after Vietnam and it was a garaged daily for decades. For a time by brother used it after crashing his 72 but abandoned it for 15 years when he moved out of country. I saved it from being discarded and started to bring it back to what I remember 3 and a half decades ago. Here is a picture with the roll cage out (So I fit) Cheers everyone.

Here is another: https://ventura.craigslist.org/pts/d/moorpark-240z-rear-bumper-overrider-bar/7909377176.html

The best way to test the injector circuits is with a fast-acting light like a NOID light or with a spare injector. If you find that the injectors aren't being opened by the ECU then you can focus on that. But you might find that the injectors are being "commanded" open but aren't. They can rust shut. Or maybe they are opening but they're squirting water. Maybe you put 5 gallons of diesel in by accident. Just kidding but the point is that you seem to have everything you need except good fuel squirting. If it starts with starting fluid you have spark and proper timing. Is your cold start valve still installed and connected? It's easy to remove and you could check that it is squirting good gasoline during the start procedure. You could also install it on one of the injector connectors, I think it uses the same EV1 connector. I've never tried that though. Could be interesting. Don't forget that the hose will be pressurized if you remove it from the hose. If you can keep it connected to fuel but get an injector connector plugged in it might tell you something. But really, a NOID light is the way to go.

Tachometer is connected and where if any is the resistor? I found this barely grounded to the distributor what is it?

I installed new coil, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Spark was weak not enough to cause a no start I believe.

I noticed I’m having some brake issues so I retired the balance tube for now. Once I get some of the must do things knocked out I’ll revisit it. It looks nice in the box, though. 🫩

Updated Price = $900 for everything

R200 Mustache Bar - 55450 N4300 Original, including OEM bushings. Asking $75 + Shipping Located in Northern CA

Set of OEM Fiberglass buckets (L/R) Both are in relatively good condition, given they are now 55 years old and can be used with a few fiberglass repairs. See pictures for details All of the studs and nuts are present and functional on both L/R Fiberglass repair along the top edge for the foremost mounting hole (Drivers Side) Fiberglass repair to fill secondary hole near bumer mount (Drivers Side) Fiberglass repair for minor hairline crack (Passenger Side) Asking $100 + Shipping for the set Located in Northern CA

Is your tachometer connected, with the inline resistor in place? I had found in the past that my 76 and a 78 parts car would not start if the tachometer was disconnected. It appears to do something to the signal on Pin 1. I never figured out what, but I did confirm it a couple of times. On the 78 I had the tachometer out and on the 76 I had the resistor removed which disconnected the tachometer.

Starting fluid worked, engine fired up for two seconds. Tested injector pulse just now and drops form 12.5 to 10.4 both sides of the pin and no pulse. Tested the coil negative terminal 12.5V key on and jumping voltage while cranking.

Seems like the main question is "what happened between then and now?" The cracked AFM hose could stop the AFM from functioning, but the engine should stil start for a few seconds on cold start injector fuel. Maybe your spark is too weak. Are you seeing s strong blue spark or a weak yellow spark? You might try starting fluid to see if you can get it to fire for a few seconds. Another possibility is flooded/fouled plugs. Have you pulled a spark plug to see how it looks? I'd do that, it's easy and quick.