All Activity

So, on the All Activity page, you can click on anything and it will take you to the end. So, this would be the page to start from when not signed in. But...the page lists all posts instead of all Topics. so there's really no need to click through since they're all right there in the list. Oh well. https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/

I think that Mike just changed things. Now, everything takes you to the last post, signed in or not. And the comments show on the Activity pages, although I have not tried all of them. So my thread is irrelevant now. Try it out and see what happens. 1/2 Thanks Mike. Actually, only the comments part has changed.

Could you dumb that down for me please? I hate not being able to go to the last post like we could do a month or 2 ago. Maybe @Mike knows the secret? I haven't been able to figure it out and believe you/me I've tried!

The comments are focused on the AC system for some odd reason...

A person could ask why any of the old 240Z's sell for high price. Or why people pay high prices for Bob Sharp cars. Or why first edition comic books sell for high prices. Collectors have their own values. Here's an article about the program. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/nissans-z-store-restored-240zs-might-not-have-made-the-company-any-profits-but-they-did-help-save-the-z/ Old pieces of colored paper sell for six million dollars! https://www.cnn.com/2024/04/05/style/superman-comic-record-6-million-intl-scli#:

I have found that there are two basic starting points to use when looking at the CZCC forum to see what's new, when not signed in. The first one shows the text of the last comment in a thread. But if you click on any of the options to open the thread all of them take you to the first post in the thread. This is no good if you want to see the latest comments, more than just the last one. So you have to click, click, scroll to get to the end of the thread. https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/112/ The second will take you to the last post directly if you click on any of the options, but does not show the text of the last comment. It just shows that somebody commented. https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/ Just an observation. Not all of the Activity pages are the same.

Will do, thanks for the photos. it is a very nice looking oil pan.

Just watched this video with Randy Jaffe who owns a Vintage Z and had 8 at one time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_TjHwA1xgE&t=161s Some interesting comments. The spreadsheet shows 59 cars but only 37 sold, must have been a few that were sold off unfinished. What's the 3rd iteration you mentioned @zspert

If it's possible, try contacting the people who placed these six figure bids and ask them? I can understand the emotions behind an auction, but there's got to be good reasons why these cars are selling in the high digits. In my opinion, this kind of money is only spent by people with the cash to do it. Unless they have inherited the money, they are likely very smart with their life choices and will have a valid reason to throw six figures at such a car. It typically won't be a whim and they will not do it unless there's some kind of investment value. BTW, "value" is a subjective term and doesn't always equal money. ;)

Mine was installed by the builder. Looks like a standard Nissan gasket. He used Allen head screws for the install. Didn’t mention anything about a new pickup tube and the dipstick appears to be the same. You can contact AZC and they can answer any questions you have. It’s a very nice pan.

SpeedRoo - This is a mystery that I too don't understand. I understand the attraction to a special "Program" car but one built to a high standard. Would another manufacturer put out such a product? Now, the 3rd iteration cars were much nicer - to a point - but all of the 3 batches were indeed built to a price, a low price. While I'd be glad to go into more detail most of the occupants of this forum have little or no interest. Might A Fool and His Money Are Soon Parted apply?

Hi @Yarb ! Thanks for the link. I like their oil pan and it is cheaper than the Japanese one. Do you have any feedback? What kind of gasket did you use? Cork, rubber? Sealant? Does it come with the oil pickup? I didn't see it in the description. Do they provide new bolts? How deep is it vs the stock one? Any issues hanging too low to the ground? Any clearance issues installing it? Leaks? What did you do with the oil dipstick? Thanks!

Why are the Vintage Z valued so highly? From what I have read here they were built as a marketing exercise. They were supposedly built to be as new but not original, lots of parts and finishes that were not on the 240Z when first built. Additionally they seemed to have been built to a price rather than price no object. They also came out of a number of restoration shops so there seems to be no consistency with the builds, the ones done by Pierre have underseal on the chassis. At the end of the day what is more desirable, an early 240Z restored to original using NOS parts or a Vintage Z? 1970 240Z 01606 BAT $165k, 1970 240Z 12070 BAT $129k

I got the "come on around" wave a week or 2 ago from an 18 wheeler. Dropped down a gear, maybe two?, and lit it rip. He was flashing his headlights when I came around, not a car in sight so I got ahead of him pretty quick. Made my day!

https://www.arizonazcar.com/engine This is where I my pan was purchased. It has hinged baffles and holds an extra qt. of oil. Very heavy duty.

I've received several waves this year from motorcycle riders when I've been driving my Z. I'm not a motorcycle rider, so I haven't tried to respond "in kind" (and it might look a bit odd coming from the driver's door of a car), but I've given a friendly regular wave back. I definitely saw it as an honor (to the car), and was happy to see it in each case. I'm sure we all get lots of waves from other classic car drivers, which I'm also happy to receive! Yesterday, being Canada Day, was a big day for that!

Well the reinforcement strips weren't as expensive as that aluminum pan! I'll re-run the numbers when I get the chance. I've never seen one of those pans in person, but if it's stiff enough, a gasket should seal without goop. In thoery.

Oh, and the last time I did an oil pan, I did things a little different. First the same: I bought a cork/rubber combo gasket like Datsun used originally and I used permatex gray (a very tiny bead) on both sides of the gasket. That tiny bead hopefully will not make it very difficult to get the oil pan off again if I ever need to. Hope I never need to, but hoping it won't be a battle if I ever do. After applying the tiny bead, I I torqued the pan into place and let the sealant cure. That much of the process is pretty much what I had done in the past. Then I did something different... After giving the sealant a couple days or so to cure, I went back, and ONE BY ONE, I removed the bolts, put some blue thread lock on them, and torqued them in again. My thinking on this is twofold: First, the gasket had time to compress and take a set. This was confirmed as I was taking the bolts out because some of them were looser than they were when I put them in couple days before. And second... The torque spec on those oil pan bolts is so small that It barely even compresses the lock washer. I'm thinking that maybe not even enough to prevent the bolts from loosening over time. So my theory, which is mine, is that the blue threadlock will keep the bolts torqued (even at such a low amount) while giving the gasket a day to take a compression set before final torque will keep the gasket under pressure. Won't know for a while how successful that whole thing was, but I'm hopeful!

That would be great. Thanks. I also started looking into getting an aluminum pan and found the one that MSA sells (made in Japan): https://www.thezstore.com/product/5261/price-drop-kameari-high-capacity-oil-pan-70-78-240z-260z-280z It is pricey, but the number of hours I spent on sealing the oil leaks in that area should justify the 1k price. I wish this pan had a groove built in with a rubber o-ring style gasket that GM cars use. My understanding is that the perfectly flat aluminum pan combined with the MSA's competition style gasket (i don't think it needs any sealant) should provide a good seal. What do you think?

I made up a CAD file for better / longer reinforcement pieces and ran some quotes. The costs were higher than what I was willing to deal with at the time. And that was before covid. If there is interest, I can open that can again and get a fresh quote?

I am going to resurrect this thread since sealing our oil pans never ends :-) I posted back in 2015 that I used a gasket which was sandwiched with Permatex Grey. It lasted me till 2024 (9 years) when the oil started leaking again. And boy, it was a major b$tch to remove it! Then I decided that I probably shouldn't be applying semi-permanent solutions again lol. I removed/cleaned both surfaces, made sure my oil pan was straight and applied a thin layer of Permatex Black to the oil pan to glue the cork gasket. Once it was cured, I put the oil pan back with a few dabs of Black in a few spots where the FSM is asking for. I installed the reinforcement 2 metal pieces and applied small torque to bolts per FSM. I did the same to my valve cover and it is working. It also makes it super easy to remove to do valve adjustments. Well, the oil pan gasket lasted me 6 months, the oil is leaking again. I think, it was Captain who asked if someone could manufacture a nice long thick reinforcement piece (we will probably need 2 for ease of installation)? If someone makes one, please sign me up.

Not so much trained but he does what he wants and gets what he wants I guess by just paying attention. He's the reason I get out of bed, his name is Rolex. I know what he wants and he knows what I'm about to do and runs and hides under the bed. Hates baths and toenail trims, cleaning his big ears are a weekly fight too. But I can't imagine my life without a good dog. So yeah I guess he is trained but I didn't do it, he did.

Knowledge of 240Z wiring.

Sorry Mike... It's not. I know you wanted it to be. ☺️