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Sorry, I was referring to the reservoir for the rear wheels when I said 'rear reservoir.' Alright, so hopefully the new master fixes the issue. I just don't understand how both wheel cylinders and the master all went out at the same time... Do you think the positive pressurization in the reservoir is due to the possibly blown seal in the master?

The rear reservoir would be for the front brakes. Unless you mean the reservoir for the rear brakes when you say rear reservoir. Neither reservoir should be pressurized. The pressure should only be created by the pistons in the MC bore. If you had moisture in the brake fluid it wouldn't be a surprise to have corrosion in the bore after 6 years. Then when you pushed the pedal to the floor you might have damaged the rubber seal inside. So, loose fitting allows reservoir ro leak dry, pedal goes to floor because of it, damaging MC seals, new MC leak looks like old fitting leak. Should have got that fitting tight the first time. Seems like it was very loose. Oh well.

Interesting. I'll give it a look when I change it out, but it's odd that it started leaking 6 years after being installed if the connection there was originally poor. Is the rear reservoir being internally pressurized unlike the front not a concern?

It's also possible that the metal to metal seal of the brake line was damaged when you changed the MC the first time. Pretty common for the tube to twist with the fitting when the fitting is loosened. The only way to be sure is to examine the parts. A magnifying glass and bright lights help. Take a close look and you'll see where the actual sealing surface is. A spec of foreign matter can screw things up. Something to be aware of if you do change the MC. The threads don't do the sealing, they just do the clamping. You can see the cone that fits inside the end of the tube in this image from Rockauto. That's the sealing surface.

I bought a new one which should be here tomorrow(ish). When the master's seals go out, does it take the wheel cylinders out too? It's just odd everything started leaking/misbehaving at once.

It's more likely that your MC seals have blown.

No leak between the master and the booster. It only seems to be coming down near the areas where the brake lines screw in to the bottom of the master. I just thought it was odd that the rear reservoir (for the drums) has positive pressure on it when you take the lid off and the one for the calipers opens without a pop of pressure. Is there a pressure release valve in the reservoir cap that could be blocked forcing brake fluid to be squeezed out of the bottom when the pedal is pressed or something?

You shouldn’t hear any noise other than the booster actuating. I don’t think you mentioned if it has leaked between the booster & MC. If you did I missed it.

It was sitting for ~9 months being driven maybe monthly during that time period and hadn't leaked since I installed the new master in 2019 so it's weird that all of a sudden its tightness became an issue. It was driven weekly before 9 months ago so it wasn't sitting that long in the grand scheme of things. That said, it was leaking after being tightened and the pedal needed to be pumped up to work which is new. The car sits flat. Is the reservoir making a pop noise when the cap is opened (being positively pressurized inside it) an issue? This is exclusive to the rear reservoir I believe.

Maybe it was never properly tightened. As soon as you started using the brakes you started pushing fluid out. When it was sitting for years there was no pressure. Regardless, it's leaking now (maybe). Are you sure that the fluid is not running down the bottom of the MC from a leak inside the bore? Might depend on how the car sits if the bore tilts forward or backward.

Wow that's weird then. Since it's metal on metal and has been connected/not touched for years, why would it start leaking now? I did notice whenever I take the cap off that reservoir it does make a pop as if it's pressurized.

The reason I mess up when talking about ChatGPT with my colleagues on campus…

Good morning, I didn't realize that Junkyard Jenny had parts for sale. 7 pages from what I can tell. I purchased them late last night not sure the condition, the photos look good. I'll still purchase your plated version if that's an option. I'll go down to my local dealer ship this week with some part members for cross referencing to see how helpful they can be.

Did you buy this set off eBay?? It shows sold as of yesterday. Junkyard Jenny has some nice parts at reasonable prices.

The nut on the brake line into the master cylinder is a metal on metal seal. If you have factory lines or CuNi lines then you should be able to get it to seal. If they're stainless, they can be much harder to get sealed

If the paint on the booster below the mounts of the MC has been eaten away sounds like the master is bad. Start there. Seating the lines on the master cylinder can be tricky.

The brake fun just keeps on comin! A few weeks back I found brake fluid in the engine bay below the master cylinder and the rear system's brake fluid reservoir was bone dry. I noticed the bolt that screws the rear-wheels' brake line into the bottom of the master was wet and could be tightened a good 3/4 turn, so I tightened it, bled the master, and the pedal felt great. Noticing both wheel cylinders were leaking, I replaced those this past week. I tried to take the car out tonight to test the brakes and noticed I needed to pump the pedal up to get the car to stop when coming out of the driveway. I checked in the engine bay and a fair bit of brake fluid was sneaking out between the brake line's bolt and the bottom of the master again despite tightening that bolt a few weeks prior. Is there a plastic/rubber seal there that has failed indicating I need a new master brake cylinder, or is that metal on metal which is now leaking for some reason? The car has been sitting for the better part of 9 months while I redid the floor's sound deadening/carpeting and it's odd that the entire rear brake system seemed to die at the same time. The wheel cylinders were last changed in 2016 and the master was changed in 2019.

OK, I'll bite. What does "salute you're typo" mean?

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I can't add much to the bolt hunt that isn't already covered, but I just wanted to pop in here quick and salute you're typo.

My daughter used to live in Lacey Washington. I was born in Richland Washington

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eBay70-78 Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z axle half shaft flange bolt +...USED rear half shaft nut, bolt and washer set for 1970-1978 Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z cars. All are clean and the threads are good.

You want OEM then. The aftermarket bolts won't work for you? It's almost worth buying an old junk 280ZX, they use the same parts but the cars are cheaper. I bought a complete 1978 280Z parts car just for the transmission but ended up with a bunch of other useful parts.