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I get that info later this week when returning home from a business trip.

What are the window dates?

I'm not sure it it made it the resources. Look for the thread titled 1970 Wiring Diagram in the electrical forum. Go to the May 1 post to get the download able PDF

I have not. Is that in a files/resources section of the website?

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/IMG_5209-1024x768.jpeg Join us on Sunday, June 8 for the Z Owners of Northern California (ZONC) gathering at the Blackhawk Museum! See flyer below for more details: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/499860045_10236740117827575_7586398421903317342_n-scaled.jpg We had a blast at last year’s ZONC event with a fantastic turnout. See our report from the 2023 event HERE, and Z you at Blackhawk! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/IMG_5176-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/IMG_5284-1024x768.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/IMG_5194-1024x768.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/IMG_5250-1024x768.jpeg View the full article

Hey Charles, I found the same difference in the return spring on one of a batch of door locks I picked up a few years ago. The unique one had a date code of 1969. The later style coil spring was not yet installed on the one on the left.

Did you download the latest wiring diagram PDF from Captain Obvious? He has resolved a lot of discrepencies in the FSM.

Here's a good read on installation for a '72. Dave's 1972 Datsun 240z: Electri...Electric Fuel Pump InstallationIn an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using...

The oil pressure switch on the 78 280 was the only model that had that configuration.

I figured at least some of them were for the radio. Are they all radio related? There is no radio in the car. I'll install one so I will need to know what wires are for what please.

You could do an inertia switch in the jumper loop on that plug. Duralast Fuel Pump Inertia Switch SW1771

When installing the door latches, make sure you use the correct length flathead. The lowest screw that attaches the latch is shorter than the others. If you put in the longer one in that position, the latch will hang up. Again, ask me how I know 🤣😝

Yeah, I went socket head because I was thinking that getting in there with a hex driver would be easier than a phillips screw driver. And now that I've done it, I think I made the right call. T-handle allen driver for the win. Oh, and they're stainless. Seemed like the right material for the application.

Yeah i know thát feeling.. it was only yesterday that i took a look at a combination of a drill/lathe and millingmachine.. but not really to buy one because it's all Chinese junk and i don't have really room for it/that! (And a bridgeport is a machine that needs a stable floor!)

They look like the radio power and lighting connections. Does you car have a radio installed?

Socket heads might be nice there. One day I might have room for a lathe... and a bridgeport...and... 😁

I don't know if it's the ONLY reason for it's existence (seems unlikely), but that is where they printed the identifying markings:

Here's mine. A little embarrassing to post after your clean and shiny stuff, but it's what I got. They'll work fine, but aren't as pretty. You can see the washers under the springs:

Much better. One follow up question though... Are there metal washers between the hold down springs and the shoes? I can't tell for sure from the pics, but I just want to make sure the springs are not riding directly on the shoes.

Sigh. Of course you did. Right after I did this: Yes... Before you ask. Yes, I made the little plastic washers.

Sent you a PM.

I made it back into the shop again, finally. I got a batch of clear zinc back from the platers and went through and reworked some door latches. I used the kits that Steve Nixon sells for the rubber bits inside the latch. I also bought a couple of spring assortments because one of the latches was missing the return spring Interestingly I have two different styles of latch. I have the style with the coiled return spring and then I have one latch that has the two flat springs in it. The one with two flat springs has a small notch on either side of the latch arm slot. Steve's rubber parts are designed for this style of lock. On the other locks I had to take a little rubber out of the semi circular pieces to make them fit properly and I glued them in place with some black super glue There are also three squarish rubber pieces that fit over the ends of the arms to cushion them The hardest ones to get on are the one that go on the door striker. There is very little little clearance to get the one side in Here are my two styles side by side. Maybe someone else can add some info on when these parts changed? Even the flat spring on the latch pawl is a different design between the two... I also put the dovetail on the edges of the doors and the spring loaded door poppers into the door jambs. Minimal progress but something. Now that I have the latches back, I can work on assembling the rest of the doors and glass

Checking on my vin 740 shows the same apparently un-used black wire…… Looks clean as a whistle inside the protective sleeve…. Like the above mentioned previous picture Was folded for extended time …..

I thought I posted this up already but I didn't see them over the last few pages... I had to trim the ears on the R200 diff for a little more clearance on the new SS exhaust This is an untrimmed side Trimmed I made a bracket to connect to the mid span support on the top of the new exhaust. It will attached under the diff arrestor strap nut Template Under the car Finished

@Captain Obvious I found the screws for the front turn signals today in the shop