I went to spray the interior metal passageways of my 240Z hatch with a Transtar Amber anti corrosion spray can and noticed there is a reinforcement plate on both sides and top of the hatch. To spray the two passageways created by this plate on the sides was easy as I just had to guide with my hand the 3 foot long spray wand above and then below the reinforcement plate as you can feel the end of the plate with your hand. See drawings. After I did this on both sides I drilled a couple of holes at the top middle of the hatch to give access to the top and bottom of the reinforcement plate in that area. Access to that area can also be had without removing the hatch as I did by drilling in the corner, see last drawing. Be sure the two corner holes line up with the two passageways at the top of the hatch especially if you use the Transtar spray wand as it isn't flexible enough to go around tight turns. I plugged the holes later with plugs I got at an auto parts store and sealed them with silicone. The animated .GIF drawing shows the location of the reinforcement plate. The end of it can be seen by looking up in the bottom inside area of the hatch with the interior finisher removed.
Where I ran the spray wand on sides of hatch:
Black U shaped area is reinforcement plate (click for animation):
Drill two holes for spraying top of hatch:
Transtar Amber Spray can (spray can on left):
Wand used was 3 ft long, sprays 360 degree pattern: (I found mine in a local automotive paint shop, can also perhaps find with google)
#4471 Transtar Rustproofing Wand (includes three 3 ft wands and shorter red wands):
The map light in my 240Z got stuck so that when the switch was pushed in to make it turn on or off it would push in and wouldn't pop back out. This was largely due to the top and bottom of the assembly pushing in on the clear plastic switch cover causing the clear plastic to drag. To cure this I glued in a sawed off ordinary lead pencil to bow out the top and bottom of the assembly reducing the friction on the clear plastic switch. The pencil length that worked well for me was approximately 26/32 of an inch and was epoxied in place when it was working right. I painted the yellow pencil gray to hide it behind the clear plastic better. A small bolt with a series of nuts would likely also work and would be adjustable but use lockwashers if you do this.
I also put a small amount of light machine oil on the switch itself on the white plastic post that sticks out of it and used a pocket knife to scrape smooth the plastic adjacent to the moving end of the clear plastic switch to make it more slippery. The plastic seemed to have dirt on it that was causing friction.
Note that the clear plastic switch cover on my car would come out of the white housing on either end once the heater fascia cover was unscrewed for access to the map light.
Bottom View of post location:
After modification before installing in car:
Got the car, starting to tinker around but would be cool to know others who appreciate our challenges and fun with a 240Z. My cursing goes unheard as I stare and stare at what I should do. In San Fernando Valley. I love my Z's. Knowledge is a plus!
I am new to this site, If I violated some of your rules, you have my apologies.
I wanted to offer these hard to find parts to your members
as I used to work on cars in my earlier days so I know that these cars use these parts and they have been discontinued for may be 10 years.
I have this listing on ebay for these original parts, NEW in sealed original envelopes
Whats up everyone, I'm the new kid on the block and I need an engine wiring harness for my late edition 1977 280Z without going broke to purchase one. Why are 1977 parts so hard to come by? Can anyone help? Darn squirels chewed up wires and corrosion set in on the connectors.
This will describe the lock latch modification only and will not address the door warping issue further.
I noticed the glove box door on my 240Z would not always stay latched. The first thing I tried was to slide the lock mechanism fore and aft after loosening the two screws that hold it on as they are in long slots. I had previously modified the latch on the door to stay in position better using a cotter pin (see part 1 of 2 blog post on this) but the half with the locking mechanism needed work so that the latch would hit at the right angle. I did this in two steps. To do the first bending operation I pushed in the lock with the key so the vise grips wouldn't hit where the key goes in and used an aluminum rod 3/16" in diameter as a fulcrum.
Step 1: (click for animation)
Step 2: (click for animation)
The second bending operation used vise grips on both sides of the very end of the tang to slightly turn the tang so the latch would hit at a better angle:
The door closes every time now with a firm click and
stays closed. Be sure to click on the last two pictures below to see the short movies showing the latch before/after action.
Latch tang result from step 1 and step 2:
Closing action before: ________Closing action after modification (click either for animation):
So I have a possibly stupid question.... short and simple.. should I hear my fuel pump running while the key is simply in the run position while not running? Or does the pump only run while the car is running?
Where is a good source for the rubber fuel line hoses for a 1972 240Z ? They appear to be 2 different sizes in the engine compartment. Also, I am looking for a source for a 240Z front tag. Any suggestions?
I wonder if someone would be able to tell me why I am unable to put my car back on Datsun Classifieds.I had sold (thought I had but
turned out to be a scam)so I deleted the add and now I'm unable to re-post.If anyone could tell me what I need to do I would certainly appreciate it.
Just a quick note for anyone with kids (or not) that may find themselves watching "Cars 2". Lots of cameo appearances by 240 Z's. You have to look close but they are there. Any other movies with Z cars in them?
New to me 72 240z. Replaced all the tail light bulbs and replaced brake light switch. The older brake light switch had different connectors than the new correct one. Old brake light switch had one yellow wire from under the dash and one of two green wires connected to it. Headlights, running lights and reverse lights all work. Turn signals do not work and have not since car was purchase a few months ago. Here is what I have going on as far as I can tell. When I connect both green wires to the new brake light switch the parking lights come on and stay on with me stepping on the brake. One of the connecters gets really hot. When I connect either one of the green wires and the yellow wire that comes from under the dash (looks like the hazard switch) to the new rake light switch the brake light only come on when the hazard switch is turned on. The turn signals also only work when the hazards are on.
I have searched a lot of threads but I have not found the help I need. Any help from all the collective great minds would be great. Thanks in advance.
I saw a link that was about an oil additive that prevents all wear of engine components. This oil additive lubricates the cylinder walls during cold startups. Never use synthetic oil again. This oil additive
is amazing. It beats prolong and a multitude of other additives.
I know a distributor that sells this product for $16.50 per bottle.
If you like what you see on this 11 minute demo, contact me @
Most experts now saw that the old 3,000 mile guideline for oil changes is over-kill. However, none will debate that normal oil changes are still of probably the most essential ways to keep your automobile running for as long as possible. However, many people think they have to take it to an expert. In reality, it's a fairly easy job, and could be done a lot more cheaply at home. Article source: Changing oil is not rocket science
You are likely to have to make sure you've the right tools for the task. This includes having a replacement oil filter, wheel chocks, rags and a tub to catch the old oil. You will most likely need about four to five quarts of the new oil for those who have a typical automobile. You will need eight if you have a V8 or pickup truck. Make sure you do not forget your tools either. You will need a jack, a socket wrench, an oil filter wrench and a funnel for putting the oil in the automobile.
Lift the car up
Let your vehicle run for about five minutes before getting to work. Warm oil is much more cooperative than cold oil. Park on a flat surface and jack up your automobile. Make sure to block the elevated end of the vehicle and chock the back wheels. Or, for those who have them, elevate the automobile with ramps.
Now pop the hood. Open the oil filler cap to obtain air flowing in the system.
Drain the oil
You will let out all the old oil now. The very best way to do this is to acquire under the automobile with your drain pan. You will find the drain plug by looking at your manual or by looking online for specific make and model. You will need to loosen the plug by using a socket wrench. Since the oil may be hot after having the car on, be careful not to acquire any on you, and make sure it all drains into the pan. The plug can get put back in after that with your fingers and then the wrench. Over tightening it can be an issue, so keep away from that.
Next step is the filter
One fact to remember before replacing the oil filter is that you need to put some brand new oil on the brand new gasket to make sure it will seal tightly. Donâ€™t seal it too tight either; that could cause problems. First you need to look on the side of the motor, or someplace else dependent upon what your manual states, for the oil filter. By using the oil filter wrench, you can loosen the oil filter. Do this by turning it counterclockwise. You will remove the oil filter and put the brand new filter in. Screw in the brand new filter.
The very last thing to do
Next you will put in the funnel, poor the oil into the automobile and replace the filler cap. You will want to check the dipstick to see what the level is at. It will work best if you run the automobile for a minute after you are done to make sure everything looks good.
It isnâ€™t so bad to do yourself, unless you donâ€™t have any extra time on your hands. Before you let yourself be done, make sure you take the old oil someplace where they can get rid of it in an environmentally friendly way. Call around and you should be able to find someplace to take it for free
I have a 72 240z and I really want it to look nice and low. I know that Ground Control Coilovers work real nice, but they aren't in my budget. What are any alternatives to making my car as low as possible? What lowering springs/kit would look best and would getting smaller rims/wheels and tire profile reduce the ride height as well? I will be putting on ZG fender flares on and I want the wheels to look tucked in. I also plan on getting Konig Rewinds. So what do you think would make them look best on my car?
i have a 78 280z that drove the last owner crazy trying to get it started and now i am too the book i have says its under the dash driver side by the controller behind the kick panel and the online truble shooting fuil inj it also says it is mounted to the facia and i have no clue what that is and i bought a new relay so i could match it up. i found 3 relays under the hood pas side under a bracket. 2 are single and one is a double but the double only has 5 conecter tabs and the one i got from the z store it has 10 tabs and i found some relays behind the pass side kick panel none of them look like the one i bought when u look at the photo in the hayes book i have it looks like the one i bought but cant find it in the car anywhare the id plate says it is a feb 78 280Z the double under the hood looks like one side is not working and the coil on that side looks darker than the other coil did i get the right one does any one know or can i identafy the relay by part # as all of them are factory parts
Hi there.. trying to figure out what to do with a couple of z's that my mom owns. The first was a gift from her dad when she graduated high school... lots of sentiment involved and the second one she bought because the first one didn't run. Both have been sitting neglected for too many years... Long story short she cant bear to look at them sit any longer. Neighbor down the street said I should have them hauled off for scrap.. just wanted an honest second opinion from a fellow lover of all things Z. Thanks
I just go my Tokico HP's in the mail today. Want to put them in. Then I start researching and come across STRUT SPACERS. Do I need to put new ones in with my new Tokicos? Thanks, somewhat perplexed.
Hi all, am restoring my dad's 73 240 Z. Had purchased a dashboard replacement, but it doesn't cover the defrost vents. There are 5 brackets for screws under the windshield, but I can't find anything that fits here. Anyone have this issue, and ideas how to solve it?