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tlorber

Door Window Squeegee

40 posts in this topic

I swear, I did search but found nothing recent that appears applicable.

Has anyone found a suitable replacement RUBBER piece that attaches to the stainless strip on the outside of the door to seal the windows? My stainless strips are in good condition and I'd rather not pay $80.00 per side just for some new rubber. I know it has been discussed in the past, but has anyone here recently dealt with this?

Thanks.

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ID: 2   Posted (edited)

I bought the squeegees from Too Intense Restorations for $47 +ship.

The leg that attaches is too tall for a stock 71 240Z stainless strip. I had to cut them down to make them fit. Also, the curved piece that wipes the window is shorter than the original.

It works but you need to modify.

I wouldn't recommend them.

I've gotten replies to my thread that the MSA rubber is an exact fit, coming in OEM Nissan bags.

Edited by mlc240z

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The ones I ordered from MSA were a Nissan part. It may be cheaper to go through your Nissan dealer or at least get a price quote first. The part was an exact fit for my '72 - a little pricey but completes the door.

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I called MSA today and they said they don't sell just the rubber. You have to buy the metal and rubber as one piece. Are you guys saying that you can get just the rubber from them?

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ID: 6   Posted (edited)

OK, sorry to flog this horse here but as I've tried to locate the squeegee, it has become apparant that either 1)people are not satisfied with existing profiles that are available 2) you (I) can't get calls back from suppliers, and 3) I just can't stomach spending nearly $200.00 for a part that MIGHT fit my car when all I need is some stinkin' rubber seals.

Therefore my question is: how much demand would there be if I were able to have the window squeegees made? It sounds like the setup and run would be a couple thousand dollars, but I'd be willing to do it if I could amoritize the cost over enough sets. Let's say the final cost would be $30.00-$40.00 for the pair. These could be made from a more modern material (some type of neoprene rather than rubber) which would hold up to UV light better, and would stay pliable longer than rubber. I would use the existing rubber pieces I have to reverse engineer a die for the extrusion.

Thanks for any input.

Edited by tlorber

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Why not check what DOES exist before you re-invent the wheel?

McMaster-Carr, Graingers, are but two re-sellers of extruded products. You may even find the exact profile or so close to exact that it's function is identical.

FWIW

E

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JC Whitney supposedly sold the proper size/profile relatively inexpensive but I'll be damned if I could find it on their site.

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I've checked JC Whitney and haven't found it there either. I've checked the other suppliers and their applications appear nowhere close to what we have. For example, one of the sites only handles vintage american aftermarket parts. Most squeegees, like the Datsun Roadster either slip over a groove or into a track.

I guess my question is not so much on the supply side as the demand side. Is this just not a big enough issue for people to worry about replacing, or does everyone just drop the 2 bills and get on with it? If that were the only seal to replace I could live with it, but by the time you spend $200 here and $380 there on stuff that doesn't even enhance performance, it seems there has to be a more cost effective way.

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I too have perfect metal pieces but the rubber crumbled away. I would like to just replace the rubber but then how to attach it. The glue by itself would not hold up and there is no way to re-staple the pieces. or is there another way to attach them?

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Is there a picture anywhere that is a closeup of the rubber and the metal molding and how they are put together? Both ends have a flat spot of metal, could that be drilled and a rod mounted all the way through (not sure it would help)? I have heard drilling stainless is a challenge. One of my squeegees does not contact the window at all; it appears to be too short.

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Any success with locating a supplier of just the rubber? I have rain pouring down my passenger size window into the door.

Replacing the rubber is a simple process of removing the staples, the steel strip, then the rubber. Then it would be simple enough to just drill, using the staple holes as a guide, out some holes large enough for small rivets. I've rebuilt the hold stainless strip using a window squeegee from a Volvo 740, but it's a pretty "meh" fit and it was sort of a pain in the arse to get it set up as the Volvo's rubber fits in a groove while the Z's is obviously stapled; so there's some finessing that needs to be done.. right now it is just a hold over until I get actual rubber.

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ID: 14   Posted (edited)

I got mine at DATSUNLANDSOCAL part # D001 48 $ for the pair plus s/h ,,phone # 714 393 0273. They require the removal of the staple that holds them to the SS frame and they provide the clips that holds the rubber to the frame.:cool:

Edited by 72 OJ

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I got mine at DATSUNLANDSOCAL part # D001 48 $ for the pair plus s/h ,,phone # 714 393 0273. They require the removal of the staple that holds them to the SS frame and they provide the clips that holds the rubber to the frame.:cool:

really I am going to look into that.

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ID: 16   Posted (edited)

Do they sell internationally? I had my driver side rubber vaporized but i dont want to buy that expensive chrome strip for new rubber, current chrome is in mint condition.. :(

Edited by Reverend

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72OJ, Have you put them on yet? did they work well? I am thinking of buying them but I don't want to jump the gun.

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I ordered a set from black dragon and ity was about $110 shipped for the pair for my 71. Not too bad IMO. They are great quality as far as looks and build. Have not put them on as my car is in pieces waiting for paint. I have the set I took off my car and they are in pretty good shape. Chrome is mint and the rubber is just a bit hard but complete and not falling apart. PM me if you are interested in them.

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Yes I was able to installed them, they seem to do their job and they look fine but not close to stock.

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ID: 21   Posted (edited)

I received and installed the squeegees today. I would give them a 75 out of a 100 score. Considering they are about 1/3 the price of new molding strips, that's not bad. Also, one of them had a small gouge in the rubber that would be visible. I am not one to return things due to my lack of patience, so I used them anyway.

post-4964-1415081864954_thumb.jpg :ermm:

1) Remove the moldings from the car by prying on the rear portion with a plastic putty knife. Pull it up and work forwards by hand. (careful not to drop the window roller into the door. A magnet will retrieve it :stupid: )

2) Use an awl to bend open the staples, and raise them up.

3) Snip the staples with a cutter.

4) Line up the new rubber strips at the back of the chrome molding, note where the original strips began.

4b) TIP: To match the slight curve of the original chrome molding, snip the new rubber strip as shown, in one or two places. (photo 5 below)

5) Press on the retainer clips, longer side of the retainer should go inside the molding channel.

6) Trim the angle into the forward edge of the new rubber to match the originals.

7) Reinstall onto door.

14) Why don't these instructions come with the strips?????

post-4964-14150818644624_thumb.jpg

post-4964-14150818645831_thumb.jpg

post-4964-14150818646446_thumb.jpg

post-4964-14150818647776_thumb.jpg

post-4964-14150818648406_thumb.jpg

Comments: The window stays up tighter now and does not drop down while driving at all. When the window is partially rolled down, it does not rattle over bumps. With the windows shut, the door closes with a more solid sound from the window being more tightly held in place. Looks fine to me. It took about 1:15 to do both sides. A few more retainer clips would be nice and make sure you don't place them over the OEM molding clips inside the chrome trim. Keep all forces in check. Don't strong-arm anything or you could dent your moldings. Hammer on the new clips with a hammer's wood handle, while holding the assembly in your other hand. Gentle!

post-4964-1415081864391_thumb.jpg

post-4964-14150818645224_thumb.jpg

post-4964-14150818647088_thumb.jpg

post-4964-14150818648822_thumb.jpg

Edited by cygnusx1

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ID: 22   Posted (edited)

Dave:

Nice write-up and pictorial documentation.

Just might deserve to be a Tech Article.

I want to do a bit more checking, but Blue may be the best to ask as to the problems he encountered when we changed a few of his posts to Tech Articles.

E

Edited by EScanlon

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Thanks, feel free to "use the force" and move the post if you want to. Might want to link to it, in this thread.

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That's the rub. From what Blue mentioned to me, it's ok to put it up as a Tech, but then there are problems with the additional comments people make. Have to ask Arne and Mike if there's a problem or something we need to do different when upgrading a post to a Tech.

Nicely done though.

E

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Cygnus, I am asuming these are the ones from Datsunlandsocal that OJ was refering to. No?

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