Evap tank removal?

[New-to-240z]

So, I'm slowly taking my car apart to start leaning and I came across this while tearing up the panels in the rear end of my car.

So I'm guessing this is the Evap tank that everyone is talking about? Now, I want to remove this to help with getting rid of the nasty gas smell that has been apparent in my car for some time. What does removing this do to my car? Will it cause any issues at all? I'm still running the stock gas tank, and plan to for a very long time.

Now, the last one shows the tube going down on the driver side and i followed it and it went into the gas tank. I think that this is the only line that touches the gas tank and that is what I am wondering. Can I just remove the evap tank, and all the lines connected to it? Then, just plug up any holes that need to be plugged up? I also noticed that there is a line from the evap tank to the rubber gas tank fill tube inside the car (3rd picture), can that just be plugged up as well?

Any help is greatly appriciated.

Edited May 27, 2010 by New-to-240z

[steve91tt]

The following post has some good information...

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034&highlight=fuel+vent

I followed these directions when I did mine. This got rid of the smell but the car would not run well with a full tank of gas. To fix this I also had to eliminate the line under the hood running from the gas vapor line to the breather and PCV line.

Without redirecting these underhood lines I found that I was sucking raw gas (not fumes) directly into the PCV/breather. This would cause the car to stall when I had a full gas tank. I simply disconnected the vent line under the hood and ran it up and through the radiator support and then down into the front of the wheel well. I'm not sure why my car needed this second modification, others have not, but I have had no problems since.

Good luck!

Edited May 27, 2010 by steve91tt

[pbarcher]

I have a '73 too, and had the old braided lines and the evap tank removed by Auto Expectations in Sterling, VA. It made a big difference with the fumes that so many of us encounter.

At the same time I had the gas tank reconditioned, using the POR-15 kit. We found that one of the gas line connections had a small leak, and repaired that along with plugging one of the old vents following Dogma420 suggestions. Tip - just because the outside of your tank looks pretty good, strip it anyway. We found rust under apparently good paint.

With the evap tank and fuel filler out, it's easy to install Dynamat in that area. No problems running with a full tank.

[New-to-240z]

How much would this cost to do? I'm soo poor right now its scary. I'm spending a lot on new frame rails, and also on suspension, etc . . . Your help is GREATLY appreciated by the way!

[hogie]

I removed mine and the most expensive bit was the 5/8" fuel injection hose from Napa and I think I got $7 worth or so. The rest of the line is common autozone/lowes bits and shouldn't set you back very much at all.

[New-to-240z]

Did you just remove the evap tank? If so, what lines did you close off? I may just re-do the entire gas tank, but I live in a condo and it would be a @#$% to do. I would just like to remove the evap tank, close up the lines that need to be closed, and then be happy for the next few years until I have my own house.

[hogie]

I followed the instructions in the link on post #2. I thought alot of the smell problem was the fact that the lines are getting old and crappy as well, not so much of the tank itself stinking. Capping crappy lines wouldn't help in that case. Though I wouldn't really know as I removed it as soon as I got the car.

[zcar70]

You can remove the evap tank. The only vapor hose from the tank that you will need is the hose that goes from the pipe on the rear center of the gas tank tank. Run it up through the deck and attach to the tap on the side of the fuel filler hose. In fact this is how very early 240Zs not sent to North America were built.

The two other vapor hose taps on the gas tank (driver side middle and front top above the sending unit) will have to be either welded shut or capped off to avoid gas fumes escaping from the tank.

With this you can also eliminate the hard vapor line that runs from the evap tank to the front driver side of the car near the crank breather tube.

Much simpler. And it works fine.

[26th-Z]

In fact this is how very early 240Zs not sent to North America were built.

Not exactly. The model type HLS30U, which was sent to North America, does not have the evap hardware. Cars with evap hardware are HLS30UV model types.

[New-to-240z]

With this you can also eliminate the hard vapor line that runs from the evap tank to the front driver side of the car near the crank breather tube.

.

I actually no longer even have that line supposedly. I did the SR20DET swap and I think that line has been removed or capped off. I will find out later tonight I guess. What can I use to cap off the gas tank ends?

Would it work if I was to just use the JB weld method that was described in that thread? Just take a metal fitting, put it over the pipe and JB WELD the fitting onto the pipe?

[zcar70]

Not exactly. The model type HLS30U, which was sent to North America, does not have the evap hardware. Cars with evap hardware are HLS30UV model types.

I stand corrected Chris, you are right. My car is a HLS30U, no evap plumbing. The gas tank also does not have the extra fittings for the evap hoses....

[New-to-240z]

I went to look last night and found that few of the ports on the gas tank are REALLY hard to get to without dropping it, so I'm going to just wait until I'm ready for that stage, and just do the complete restoration of the gas tank. No reason not to. It may be an extra week or two, but it should be worth it in the end.