halz

Thanks Carl, That is pretty much what I expected would be required distributor-wise...I was just hoping I could "let well alone" and play with the oil pump in isolation. I haven't delved deply into the architecture of L6 engines before... Would I be right in guessing that the distributor is driven off the crank at half speed and that its shaft extends down and couples with the oil pump...hence the need for everything to be in a 'known' position at the time of removal and refit (ie TDC)?

Guys, I'm slowly addressing all of the little problems on my Z and next on the list is the grimy, oily oil pump. Its obviously leaking or weeping from one of the gaskets/seals and needs attention. Are there any tricks to removing and replacing the oil pump? My Nissan workshop manual mentions that the Distributor must be removed first... I'd rather leave it alone if at all possible. Your thoughts? Hayden.

Rich is a nice guy and he has a nice car. The article does not mention however, that the car has a very warm L28 with triple webers, uprates suspension all round, etc, etc. A stock 240 might not have got quite the same rave review when compared to the 350z..

Hmmm, You might as well include Alfa Romeos too... I think these cars actually all have a clutch-and-gearbox type transmission. The 'automatic' part is the electronic operation of the clutch and gearshift which is quite different to the traditional torque-converter type of automatic transmission (ie, what you would find in a Z.)

...and for a '70 5-speed?

Alan, I standeven more corrected ! I had a very close look at the magazine last night... you can even see a yellow reflection in the metal of the windscreen wipers too! What a contrast between the open contrition or Classic Car mag and Vintage Racecar. By being honest about what they did Classic Car will move forward with their credibility intact... VR should be sunk for their scurrilous, un-researched story! Hayden

...and I'm just getting back into my box..!

Alan, Are you sure about this? I was fooled by the mag layout too.. red car on front, yellow one inside. When I look closeley however I see that there is one article on the yellow car (the badge snobbery article) and another under the topic of "treat yourself" (things you can get/do with 5000 pounds). In the second one they use the orange car depicted on the front cover...I don't think they've photoshopped it! Hayden.

Whoa! That sounds really unsophisticated! Every thermo fan setup I've ever installed has used a temperature sender unit that is immersed in the coolant. Most sensors are usually slipped into the coolant via the top radiator hose connection. Your sensor would be effectively measuring a combination of air and metal temperature, both of which would vary rapidly over very short periods of time... if its working then fine...but it sounds strange to me

...A few of you have mentioned early '70s Datsun performance parts catalogues... Do you have any scanned copies available?

Thanks guys.

I'm trying to get the facts here... Did Nissan make a set of competition headers for the 240Z? Is "Nismo" the factory performance arm? Are such headers available in Australia?

Good luck - I like it because its the same colour as my 240!

Why not look at the Green one for sale in Southbank too? You can compare the two. I know its expensive at $13k but its been for sale for a long time so I'm sure you could make a nice low offer :devious:

Good qustion - there are two thoroughly restored 2+2s in the group - they look as new (why they did 2+2s I don't know!)

Look forward to seeing that yellow machine. How's the engine work going?

Guys, Last sunday in Perth (Australia) a number of people turned up for the monthly W.A.Z-car register monthly meeting. Mr. Camoflage took some shots and has put them up on: http://www.wazcars.com/images/feb2004/ Enjoy - hopefully a few more Perth-ites will turn up in March:classic: Hayden.

Store your matching number L24 and put in the L28. If your stored engine is in good nick you can expect it to be in similar good condition when you reawaken it, provided you store it sensibly... Make sure you oil up the combustion chambers and the engine has a fresh oil change before storage. Turn the engine over by hand every 6 months to a year to rewipe the bores with oil. Obviously store it in a damp-free environment and under a cover. When reviving it, turn it over first by hand and then crank it without the ignigion connected to get the oil system flowing. When running, warm it up and change the oil and filter immediately. On an originality note: it took me a long time to find a car that was about 90% original (stereo, wheels and seat covers are the offending items) and as time goes on it will only become harder. Do everything you can to keep your car original but don't sacrifice the fun factor! I would not advocate overboring your original L24 to make an "L28"... what happens when it needs reboring again and you've taken the block out as far as it can go??

I don't care what number it is... for $15k I expect a car with its original running gear... that advertisement says "Butchered early car" to me

Lee - Congratulations! Its great to see your car at last, especially since its a Perth car! You should bring it along to the next W.A.Zed car meeting at Rosie O'Grady's in South Perth. The gatherings are on the last Sunday of each month - there was one today! Did you have the engine bay repainted too? I only ask because the paintwork seems to fresh and bright that you kind of notice that the engine is a bit drab in comparison (SORRY!)... Where are you getting your carpets done? Congrats again! Hayden.

where was that hillclimb?