george71z

A farmer stopped by the local mechanic shop to have his truck fixed. They couldn't do it while he waited, so he said he didn't live far and would just walk home. On the way home he stopped at the hardware store and bought a bucket and a gallon of paint. He then stopped by the feed store and picked up a couple of chickens and a goose. However, struggling outside the store he now had a problem - how to carry his entire purchases home. While he was scratching his head he was approached by a little old lady who told him she was lost. She asked, 'Can you tell me how to get to 1603 Mockingbird Lane?' The farmer said, 'Well, as a matter of fact, my farm is very close to that house I would walk you there but I can't carry this lot.' The old lady suggested, 'Why don't you put the can of paint in the bucket. Carry the bucket in one hand, put a chicken under each arm and carry the goose in your other hand? 'Why thank you very much,' he said and proceeded to walk the old girl home. On the way he says 'Let's take my short cut and go down this alley. We'll be there in no time. The little old lady looked him over cautiously then said, I am a lonely widow without a husband to defend me. How do I know that when we get in the alley you won't hold me up against the wall, pull up my skirt, and have your way with me?' The farmer said, 'Holy smokes lady! I'm carrying a bucket, a gallon of paint, two chickens, and a goose. How in the world could I possibly hold you up against the wall and do that?' The old lady replied, 'Set the goose down, cover him with the bucket, put the paint on top of the bucket, and I'll hold the chickens!!!!

Got this from a friend. http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/uptospeed/2009/08/nissan-throws-an-ev-thunderbolt-the-leaf-.html

The factory parts catalog also lists: 18415-E8700 ---9/71 to 7/73 L24 18415-E8800 ---9/71(exc. Canada) L24 18415-N3601 ---8/73 (L26 U.S.) 18415-N3401 ---8/73 (L26 Canada)

Boy, that reminds me of when I had my '71 media blasted in 1992. Got it back in about the same shape; and man, was I scared. All the patches, holes and hidden damage. I swore I would never be able to finish the project. All is well in the end. Good luck on your resto, and be sure to post more progress pics, and the final, of course.

My wife warped the head in our Toyota van many,many years ago. (Ran it with the lower radiator hose off) It was visibly warped. A shave was out of the question. I had it heated and pressed flat, and it ran great for another 10K miles before it was traded in. 12 thousandths is easily shaveable. I would go with that if you are uncomfortable with the heat and press, but it does work, and works well.

I just did a search on this topic and found some good info, but I still need some clarification. Escanlon wrote: The only place for grease on the window assemblies is on the front sash, where the nylon guide slides through, the gear / spline contact area, the swivel point for the scissor, and the two roller guides that fit in to the window pane frame guides. Other than that, no grease, oil or other lubricant other than the "fuzziness" of the gasket. I just cleaned what seemed like JB Weld from my window, guides and regulator. I know this is the remains of the grease I put in there when I re-assembled the car after a paint job. My question is, what is the best lube to put on the aforementioned areas so this won't happen again? Roughly, how much lube should be used?

I have had a Sears Craftsman metric and SAE set for close to 30 yrs. and it has served admirably. Granted, I think the quality of Craftsman has declined over the years, but maybe you can pick up an older set at a flea market or garage sale. Z137 gave good advice. Do not go cheap on taps and dies.

Maybe I should change my screen name to something with 'redneck' in it, as I favor Natural Lite, Busch, and Coors Lite. Out at my favorite wing place, it's Landshark. Used to go strictly with Red Dog, but they don't make it anymore. What's the worst beer y'all ever had? Two come to mind with me. Rheingold Extra Dry from the roach-infested taps at the old Shea Stadium in N.Y., and a rain-diluted St. Pauli Girl at the track in Lime Rock, Conn. The memories linger after almost 40 yrs.

I am on my second fiberglass MSA ducted spook on my 71. ( I hit a thrown tire tread on the interstate) The first came in gray and needed painting. I went with a semi-gloss black. I also made my own BRE logo. The new one came gel-coated in gloss black and I bought the real logo from BRE to put on. I wouldn't do my front end any other way. pic is my old one @ Zcon 07

Get an old pair of athletic type socks and slip them over the ends of the bumper to prevent inadvertent scratches. This is even advised with two people handling the bumper. Cheap insurance.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/05/automobiles/collectibles/05EGO.html?_r=1&ref=automobiles Neat article about an original owner in N.Y.C.

I have a spare set of dash end vents (a.k.a. 'eyeball vents') for my 71, and would like to clean them up. They have a stubborn , greenish tarnish on them. I have tried a bleach solution, some tile and grout cleaner and gentle application of a brass brush. The chromed plastic still doesn't come clean. Any suggestions?

I dismantled my wheel, and took off the nylon ring. As you can see from the att. pics, it's in poor shape. This might be worth checking if your horn pad keeps coming loose. (What I thought were 3 plates is actually a formed spring.)

will this bracket work for you?

I have been having the same problem. My horn button would pop off when I hit a bump or under hard acceleration. Looked at the fix in the post from Geezer, and went out to the garage to see if it would work. My horn button was fine. However, the nylon ring on the steering wheel, with the 3 metal plates that hold the button on, was not 100%. Part of the ring behind (dashbd. side) one of those plates was missing. I checked a spare wheel I had in the attic, and the nylon ring was intact. Pushed the horn button on it and had a hell of a time getting it off! Looks like I'll have to look over the posts about restoring the steering wheel, as this wheel is not as nice as the one in the car.

My factory parts catalog lists a 'switch assy.--glove box with lamp'. It's #36 in the diagram, p/n 25720-73000. I believe the 3W bulb plugs into the back side of the switch. It probably works like the door switches; i.e., 12V is always there; when the plunger comes out, it makes the ground.

Sorry guys, I've always been a four spoke kind of guy.

This is from the MSA catalog.

That bolt would be the one. I have another hold-down on the left side bolt on my 71.

I believe I have one of each. Let me know which one will fit. The pic on the left is from a 71-72. It is identical to the grille in my 71. (mounting tabs face inward) On the right is the 73. (mounting tabs face outward)

Various early 70's from Lime Rock, Conn.

Has anybody else seen the post on Zcar.com about the shop in Mission Viejo, Ca. that needs a s--tpot full of 3N71B auto trannies? They replied back to my email and said they would pick it up in Fla. and pay $100 for it, working or not. Anybody have any laying around they don't need?

I was in the midst of restoring my 71. I had taken off the front cover as the timing chain tensioner had come apart, and I could not get the car to run right. I knew next to nothing about L24 motors at the time. I was on an errand and passed a gas station with a 72 with a for sale sign in it. I stopped and asked about the car. The owner was asking $1200. He took me for a ride and I swore it had a V-8 in it. Nope, the L-6 with triple Webers on it. I offered him $1000 for the car and sealed the deal. I got the whole car and swapped motors into my 71. Best deal I ever made.

If you want to keep the stock 14" rim size, a 205 to 225 would put a good amount of rubber under you. I have run 225/60's on my '78 rims, and I am currently running 195/60's on my Libre rims. A 65 or 70 series tire would fill the well a lot more.