preith

Great site Steve! If I dig anything up I'll be sure to send it your way. Perhaps you should add an informational page on what GTU body kits are still available today and/or how they differed. As I'm sure you're aware of, there was a great thread on Hybrid not too long ago. I found DrSideways posts to be particularly valuble. I'm still trying to figure out how they were able to make the stub axles last with those monster wheels...

Yes, nice ride. It's been featured in a few different magazines as well, an old Zcar one if I remember correctly... I still miss that publication.

That's a good tidbit about the springs Jon. I was getting a little off subject with that anyways, I think you're right, it probably wasn't valve float which caused it, but my first guess would be the cam dowel as well.

Mark, You're new, so not to harp on you too much, but this post probably could have been continued with your last thread stating the initial problem, which I'm sorry to hear about by the way. My luck hasn't been too good either, particularly at that track. What are your cam specs? What manufacture, or is it stock? If it's stock or even slightly larger, IMHO I'd say stick with the stock springs, even at those rpms. I'm just going off my somewhat sketchy memory, but something like 460 or less in lift and I think you're ok with stock springs. One of my beefs with Scheider for example, and probably most others, is they stock one spring to ecompass their entire line of cams and the end result is a spring which is overkill almost all but the most aggressive cams. Also, I left you a private message back when you first posted pics. I'd be happy to help you off line as well. From the track and date you have listed you were at a Midwest Council member. I'm also Council member who runs in vintage, but the car is still down at the moment, maybe I'll see ya soon at the track, hope to make it to the June 24th weekend at Blackhawk.

I'm pretty sure this is the same car. Grey Ghost just posted it in the photo gallery. I was there when this photo was taken, I belive it was in the spring of '02 at Road America's SVRA event.

That is cool, and Bill and I are in the same club! Bill, are you going ITS with it?

There's a VSCDA member, Joe Ziltner, who occasionaly races in my club (Midwest Council) and has been using triple SU's for a while now. I didn't take any pictures of the engine bay unfortunately, but I'll have to next time I see it. Anyways, he built the manifold out of exhaust tubing (steel); it did look presentable. As for straight line speed, he was door to door with me at Road America...for a breif moment. I beleive he's since upgraded the cam, so I'll have to get another comparison this year if I race against him again. Hopefully Steve won't mind me posting this:

Ok one last time...and I'll speak theoretically this time. I'm not denying the bore will be different after the head has been installed, that we can agree upon. My point from the beginning, as dspillman eluded to in his edit, is the argument of final honing with a plate vs boring and honing with a plate. "Theoretically" the final bore could be the same, but I don't know, I never been able to compare the two.

I see your point, but speaking hypothetically, if the end result would be the same, or the cylinders would exact dimensions either way, I still don't see what difference it would make? As for how much more trouble would it be to leave it on, I have no idea, but perhaps it is.

dspillman, no offense, but I kind of feel like I'm dealing with the media here; your reply twists my post a bit. I should have left the last part out, my main point, which seemed to slip past Zsaint too, was when to use the torque plate during machining. It is not needed for the boring, the final hone will compensate for any differences.

I'm a little confused by your post, are you offering one, or in need of it?? With that said, I feel there's a popular misconception with torque plates. The torque plate does NOT need to be used for the actual over boring, but only for the final honing. Also I wonder just how important they are for the 'ole L-series. IMHO, the reinforced skirts on the blocks make them much more stout than a Chevy or Ford small block. My last road race block was prepped sans torque plate, with no issues.

That's the Red Frog Racing Z, right? Left you a PM.

$800 seems a bit high. The custom hub should cost you around $150, and the damper itself is an "off the shelf" item which you can buy from Summit for example, at about $300. I beleive The damper is listed as a big block Chevy application, but you could probably find out from ATI. I dealt with Jim Beattie, the owner, and I can't say enough about his customer service.

I resisted posting because you specifically mentioned the Nissan damper. I'm currently using the HPV setup on an ATI application with a custom machined hub from them. Not to get too far off subject, but I personally feel this is a better solution to the Nissan one. Anyways, wheel is mounted on the back of the hub, actually on the water pump pulley, between the pulley and the front cover. The hub is drilled/tapped with 6 #10 countersunk screws. It's worked flawlessly thus far. The engine is in peices, but I could take some pics of it installed on the hub I guess, and maybe of the sensor bracket too?

That the Mistress Motorsports guy, right? We're getting off subject here, but for some reason I was on a Shelby Cobra board a while back and he had the car for sale there too. It was entertaining reading some of posts from Cobra guys who had diced with a Z at one time or another on the track, and were quite surprised with it's performance.