hmsports

I'm looking for opinions on which of the following types of rims you think would look better on a Z racer. They are both 15x7 and weigh in at 12lbs. Style 1 Style 2 Thanks, Rick

Had to get some shots of these two GT-2 6 Cylinders Jags - full tube frame with fiberglass bodies - the red one has a solid rear axle, the black one was independent. Super fast and awesome sounding!

Just got back from Gateway today - SCCA Regional racing. 102 degrees in the shade - only two Z cars today. 280 ITS and 1970 240 EP car - kind of what mine is going to be like (except I'll be faster :classic:)

Sixth from the right - blond

Most thermostats are stamped with the temp at which they open. I think you will find that most 'standard' ones are 160-180 degrees. If I remember correctly, changing the pressure of the tank will raise the boiling point of the coolant.

I've never used sealant on any of my header gaskets and I think I remember reading against it.

I think we all agree that racing and driving crazy on the street is an incredibly stupid and dangerous thing to do. We have had at least one other thread where this point was made quite clear -- dead horse comes to mind. This being a Z site, and the Z being versatile and perfect for upgrades and performance enhancement, many of the threads are started to showcase what can and has been done to them. Many members have had Z's for years, many are new to the Z and many are new to vehicles in general. Everyone has something to teach and we all have something to learn. I'm sure nobody on this site condones that type of dangerous behavior -- please, let's keep this site open to interesting, thought provoking, awe inspiring and even laughable interaction between all our new friends that we have made around the world. Rick

I know its probably a long shot, but do your front control arms have excentric bushings? ---- Here's a few places to check measurements - quickly and easily... Take a measurement from the front control arm inner bolt heads to the same part on the back of each spindle. Both sides should have the same measurement. Use a level vertically inside the engine compartment on the strut tower to see if the driver's side is tweaked out (I know I mentioned this one before - just didn't know if you had a chance to check it) With the car on a level surface, you can measure the loaded spring height - that may give you a quick indication. Also measure from the bottom of the frame rail to the top of the control arm. ---- Just tossing out some other things... Have you checked the tension control rods to make sure both sides are set the same - I don't that that could cause any problems other than incorrect toe/caster - at least not 1.5 degrees of a camber difference I'm sure. I know there's not much chance of the control arm being bent - I'm sure it would stick out like a sore thumb if it was.

I may be interested in your Konis - what model are they?

Seeing as I was causing too much work yesterday, maybe you can save a little time if you buy one new bulb (you can always return it) and only take out the dim light. Hook up the new bulb and see how it looks.

EScanlon, It takes a heck of a lot more to offend me - I was just kidding with my remark -- as you should know from most of my posts -- sorry, I should have added a smiley. Again, that's the great thing about this site is that there are a lot of folks with a ton of experience -- the Z is such a unique and incredible vehicle and each problem can be approached many different ways -- and there is always someone who has done it easier. I'm just venturing into a street-able Z for the first time and I've learned a lot since joining this site. I'm just trying to do my part to return the favor. Anyway, I'm smiling in St. Louis :classic:

Boy, I'm bleeding from my nose after that one...

Try swapping the lights left to right and see if the dim moves. If it does, then it's your light, otherwise a bad ground may be the cause. Also check the plug, maybe it has corrosion or gunk in there - also check that the plug itself isn't sprung and making a loose contact. Sounds like it is something up front.

Those springs are so flimsy and loose (sounds like my ex-wife) that I don't think a new set would make a difference - but you should probably check with the Z-Therapy guys for the final on that one. How much of a fluctuation do you notice? Can you describe it a bit? Does it act like a drop or a surge? I'm sure that you used a synchronizer to get them both in-sync - and not off by 98 degrees (sorry, more bad humor here - as usual). Also check that they are both set with the correct idle mixture. Maybe one carb is getting a bit more/less fuel at idle, thus causing it to surge or drop off until it gets in check again with the other one. This probably is where the cause is. Also, check that the floats are adjusted correctly - again I'm assuming a lot of this was done since you just rebuilt them - just going over some of the possible causes. Also, make sure that the needles are seated at the same height. Let me know what you find... Rick

I wish I had his tire (tyre) budget!

I thought this was the new battery powered version and that's where the charger plugs in :classic:

Check the condition of the return springs and make sure both are hooked up. As well as applying the grease as Si|v3r72 says, check for binding in any of the links. Also check the level of damper oil in your carbs - that may play into the fluctuation.

It seems that in 72 they came out with both a one volume and a two volume set. I have the single volume set and it is quite good. If you are looking to rebuild your engine, get the book titled "How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine" by Tom Monroe - it is invaluable. I also have a Chiltons and a Haynes that I aquired through the years. Between the four books I have, I always find what I'm looking for.

Looks like a 240 that's ready to have a baby!

Here's a link to a site that has the front covers of the manuals Manuals

The most confusing days in the life of the Talaban's Camels and Donkeys... - Driver's education day and sex education day

I was going to say it sounds like you need a proctologist :classic: I race with a full welded 4.11 R180 using synthetic lube and have never had a problem with any leakage. I don't run a catch can either. The only thing I can think of is what Royce already mentioned - was the car level when it was checked and filled?

Talked to my crew chief today, he's a professional mechanic and owns his own shop. He says he will never use a remanufactured master cylinder -- especially one with an aluminum housing. He says that they have a high rate of failure.

Now you're getting personal, talking about my Mother-In-Law like that :classic:

I think that as long as you maintain them and clean/oil them correctly/regularly they will capture more dust and allow your engine to breath a bit better. Sure, you won't notice any huge power increase, but just as well treat your engine to some cleaner air. Plus over time, the cost savings of having to always replace your filter will add up.