hmsports

Check out Eastwood Company. They have all the right stuff for any type of polishing and restoring. Find out what you need and then check around for prices. I'm not sure they are the cheapest, but they have everything.

When was the last time you checked or changed your transmission fluid? It almost seems like it is old and viscous - once things heat up, it flows easier. This may be a good first place to start. Rick

yeah, and I think every man likes a little 'kitten' too:D

I know that the local professional photographer that's shoots us racing gets about $18 for a color 8x10" photo. I'd love to have a 24x36" poster - and would pay $25 if it was on good heavy glossy paper like a real poster.

All this talk about tranny's, straight 6s, V8s and swapping... I'm not going to be able to surf at work any more :classic: The great thing about America is freedom of choice - if you want a V8 in your Z - go for it.

When you were fiddling, did you adjust any of the screws or knobs on the carbs? Also, are the choke cable screws tightened back down? Move the choke cables through their full open/closed settings and make sure the nozzle underneath the carb moves down when the choke is open and up when closed. Remove a couple plugs and see if they are really wet with gas too. If they are, remove all the plugs and let things air out for a while.

Late 60's and early 70's muscle car from Chevrolet...

What head casting is on the engine? I'm looking for E31. Are the carbs three or four bolt? What is the intake manifold casting number? I'm also interested in an R180 with 3.7 or 3.9 gears. Thanks, Rick

Is your car bone stock or souped up? Consider the HP/Weight ratio of your car to the car you are racing and be realistic in your expectations. A lot will depend on how much you feel like tearing up your machinery. There's a definate power band for your car... in each gear. Best thing to do is find a safe place to do some experimenting. Rap up your car in each gear to learn the sound of the engine and the feel of the pull. You can tell when the engine gets flat and is no longer in the power band. Try shifting up at different RPMs (say in 100 RPM increments) down from these realistic maxes for each gear. Listen and feel how the car accelerates from each of these shifts to determine the optimal max RPM for each gear. Never slam the gear shift. Cup the shift knob in your hand - don't have a death-grip on it. Practice counting in your head... 1 as you disengage and go through neutral and then ...2 as you slip it into gear - this will help you get into a rythm - almost two distinct motions. I've been taught to treat the gear shift knob like it was an egg. You will be surprised but as in all racing - smooth is fast. If you have a good clutch - and don't mind a lot of wear on the tranny and engine, rap the car up and dump the clutch. Practice this to find the best RPM where you don't end up just spinning your tires. Be careful not to slip the clutch too much. Again, be smooth. Remember... racing is hazardous - not just to your car, but more importantly to you and others - and should be kept on the track. Now, this is just my opinion - that, along with $3.25 will get you a small Starbuck coffee - so take it for that. You will get a hundred different opinions on this one...

I have an extra rear suspension that is just sitting around from a 72 240. I'd be happy to send you the part you need if you give me some more information (maybe a picture) of what you need - free of charge - you pay shipping. Thanks, Rick

There's a new place near St. Louis called 100 Acre Wood where they started holding rallyes. There weren't any Z cars entered, but it is pretty new around here. 100 Acre Wood

Seems that an early 240 (69/70) in near perfect shape would easily fetch $3900. Do a search in the forums area - there are a lot of threads that explain what to look for. One in particular is titled "I want to buy a 240z...what should I look for?". There are a couple of responses about rust. If you are not worried about a perfectly stock Z, you shouldn't have to worry if the suspension replacement parts are aftermarket. Good luck and welcome to the wonderful world of the Z

Ok then, how about these items to check in the rear... Mustache bar bushings Half shafts for play Differential carrier bearings worn Rear wheel bearings Brake drums out of balance - maybe some fins are missing or the counter-weight plug is missing Toe is off Check the screw-in cap on top of the right rear strut - maybe it has worked out and the strut insert shaft is wobbling Check strut inserts to make sure they good Control arm busings for wear Half shaft u-joints Maybe if the half shaft were out before the mounting plate where they mount to the pumpkin or wheel is cocked a bit Check that all bolts holding the control arms are tight If there is a rear sway bar, make sure it's mounts are good - and that it isn't binding Check the strut-mount insulator There's not much else that I can think of.

If you aren't worried about killer performance off the line, the 3.36 is a fine ratio. And you will get better MPG and lower RPM while cruising. Is your 4.11 a limited slip? If so, would you like to part with it? Do you have a 3.36 to replace it with? Thanks, Rick

You are too darn good 2Many! I forgot about the throw-out bearing :stupid:

Has the shake gotten worse recently? Or has it always shaken the same since you got it? Is the vibration felt in the steering wheel or where? I'm not sure all the things the shop checked, but here's a list of items that could make a shake in the front end... Ball joints Tie rods - both inner and outer Tension Control arm rubbers worn Steering rack rubbers worn or lose Strut tower topper may be worn or lose (not likely) Control arm busings Spindle nut lose Wheel bearings worn Incorrect toe I'm sure you've rotated your tires but maybe it's a bent/out of round rim. Was the car involved in an accident before you purchased it? More details may help. Rick