7T1240

Hi Bob. Your first guess is correct, I taped them off. For the outer chrome rim, I used 1/4" easy release painters tape (3M green) to section off the chrome from the painted area, then used a 2" roll of the same type tape around the outer rim, finally folding it over to meet the 1/4" strip and covering all exposed chrome. For the black center cap area, I again started with 1/4" tape where the chrome ring meets the paint, and then wrapped and fixed the 2" tape to the first 1/4" of tape, folding the excess into the middle to cover the center. As seems to be the case with most painting projects, the prep and taping takes as much or more time than the actual painting. Prep in this case involved thoroughly washing the hubcaps, drying them, lightly scuffing the surface to be painted with a 3M scotchbrite pad, wiping the hubcaps clean again with an isopropyl based cleaner/degreaser, then the taping an painting.

e_racer, hello. Good question, I did consider it. However, I asked Les about clearcoat when I ordered the paint, and he said originally the wheels were painted with just the color coat, no clearcoat. In the interest of attempting to maintain originality, I went with his input. Gary S.

Dan, hello. I wouldn't describe it in those terms. It's a fairly smooth texture. I went with what Les sells because of his involvement in the Z restoration program. I wonder, was the texture rougher as new from the factory, or simply as a result of aging? Gary S.

Thought I'd post some pictures of my recent wheel refurbishment. I bought the aerosol wheel paint from Les Cannaday - www.classicdatsun.com For the black centercap area, I used an SEM product - "Colorcoat Flexible Coating" - Landau Black #15013. I sprayed small amounts of this color into a clean 8 oz. cup and brushed it onto the centercap with a #4 hobby paint brush. The centercap color match was spot on to my eye. First photo is a before picture, with spokes somewhat faded and center black area flecked off in places Second photo is of refurbished wheel. Third photo is the SEM Landau Black product. Gary S.

Try this link, covers the adjustment process in depth. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6231&highlight=window+adjustment Rainin' here in Spokane too - with wind gust up to 60 mph! Gary S.

Snipped Actually, the smallest Challenger has a 9000 lb. capacity - albeit as a two post. This is the model my friend has. He uses it to store his early Carrera RS over his '80 911SC, as well as for maintenance, and he paid ~$2800 for it in 2002. And yes, the smallest four post is rated at 12,000. Is excess capacity a problem? If pricing on two similiar models is equal, wouldn't increased weight capacity be a benefit? Also, if there is real added value in durability (over-engineered might equate to lasts longer), flexibility (maybe one day I own a truck or SUV, or perhaps a relative or friend who owns same would like access to the lift), or safety / peace of mind (ain't no way the E-type is gonna break this sucker!) a price premium might be worth it to some. It's all about choices. The Challenger website has a link to all ALI members, which is think is really helpful: http://www.autolift.org/members.html Go to the homepage of this website, and you can learn about lifts broken out by type - 2 post, 4 post, etc. Snipped Personally, I'm looking at the lift pictured below! Gary S.

Hi Rich, This morning I spoke with a friend to see what his lift is. It's a Challenger: http://www.challengerlifts.com/about.shtml My friend chose it at least in part because a local Porsche mechanic, (Hartmut Leuschner,Alpine Motors in Hayden Lake, ID. 208-762-7914) has a number of them in the his shop. I visited the Challenger website briefly and they meet your criteria in at least two ways - they sell a 4 post and they are ALI/ETL certified. They cite Ford and Michelin as two of their customers, and there is a lot of info on their website. Just another option for you to check out. Gary S. (who hopes to be following in your footsteps lift-wise in the near future!)

For the Left and Right side, try Cocoa Auto Salvage (Cocoa FL.) A- condition, part #5L4355 - $50 ea. 1-800-347-0928 Gary S.

Steve, hello. If I'm picturing what BillD is saying in this previous quote, the ramps push by the "mechanical locking tabs" on the way up, the tabs drop down into the support position, then the ramps are lowered onto the tabs, supporting the ramps and eliminating the concern for hydraulic failure. BillD, can you confirm? Gary S.

Rich, and Bill D, hello. Please educate me a bit. I've been interested in lifts as well, and a friend has a 2 post lift. I have been attracted to it because of the ability to work on wheels, brakes, suspension etc., and I'm quite certain my friend uses his 2 post for over/under car storage as well. Why your preference for the 4 post? Thanks, Gary S.

Dave, hi. I just came across the Forza article after doing a 240Z search on google, and hit on that article. Congratulations on the XBox recordings, the new 240, the publicity and the sales of your wiring harness...I'm happy as could be with mine. Also, mally002 is looking for some Z hubcaps, see this thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24091 Happy Holidays! Gary S.

Hi Randy, It looks like Jim Frederick may have you covered. If not, here are a couple of other ideas. I did an ebay search in an attempt to find the hubcap auction you mentioned. I did not find an auction where the seller had no feedback, but I did find this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-76-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-HUBCAPS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ140745QQihZ020QQitemZ300055167471QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW The seller looks legit, and I would expect these hubcaps to go for more than his starting bid. As far as the $249.00 ebay radio, that seems expensive, even from a seller who specializes in refurbishing Z electrical items (unless you are doing a concours restoration). Are you looking for an AM or AM-FM? Rose Auto Wrecking in Portland Oregon has an AM-FM from a 1973 240Z in "A" grade condition - stock 11DA73 - call for pricing: 800.452.0760. Good luck, Gary S.

Well deserved Henry. Your car has the type of ownership history that is envious and sought after. Hi there Jim. I think I have a line on one as well through a similiar source. Do you recall how much yours cost you? Gary S.

Hi Henry, I just took a peek at your profile and gallery...nice car! Anyway, my question is did you (or can I) source the 280ZX distributor and E12-80 module as new parts, thus addressing the "You still have an old distributor with worn internal parts." part of your statement? I thought the E12-80 was hard to come by, and maybe only available used? Max, if you go this route, how will you source your changeover parts? Gary S.

I stand corrected, thanks Arne. And just out of curiousity, is this also the case for the spare? Gary S.

Hi Randy, The stock steel wheels were painted black. Now, whether there is a particular source for the absolute correct color I can't say, but you could contact Les Cannaday, a restoration specialist who was involved in the Nissan restoration program. His website is: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ Click on contact to email him. He's a good source for numerous Z resto items, including the correct paint if your "Z" hubcaps need a little touching up. Gary S.

Personally, I like the American Racing Libre wheels for the 240Z Check out this ad on San Francisco craigslist, with tires. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/240715558.html Glad to see you found a car. Gary S.

Hi Michael, welcome aboard. You've got to tell us more about your car...love the 240Z in silver! Gary S.

Use this link to go to the "Where To Buy SEM Products" page. http://www.sem.ws/where_to_buy.php Gary S.

Hi Bruce, I've used SEM product to renew the carpets, center console and ash tray/fuse cover on my '71. However, I was not aware of these products. Great job! As Will said, it'll be interesting to see how it holds up. Gary S.

Hi Todd, thanks for the checklist. Have you gone through one of these and renewed the seals and gaskets? If so, is this a home mechanic with hand tools job? Sounds like I need to get the car up in the air and just have a good look-see. BTW, where's Mckenna? rtaylor, thanks. This is helpful in the event that only the fluid change and cover gasket need to be addressed. Gary S.

Last weekend, before putting the car away for winter, I took it to a self-serve car wash to do some detail cleanup on the inner fender wells. While I was there I decided to blast off the accumulated gunk on the cover plate for the rear diff. The accumulated gunk appeared to be mostly around the seam between the cover plate and the diff., and then back onto the cover plate. This started me thinking about maintenance for this component. At first blush I would think to drain and replenish fluid, and check torque on the cover plate bolts. To go one step further might include removing the cover plate and replacing the gasket. Are there other leak sources I should be looking for? Any other tips or suggestions? (Car has about 83,000 miles on it...'71 series I.) Gary S.

In the interest of disseminating accurate information on this forum, I am posting some information that was shared with me by another forum member. To note: The ONLY function of the Accessory relay is to power the Rear Window Defrost circuit. If the Acc Relay fails, you don't have R Window Defrost, but everything else will still work. The BLOWER connects to the same Blue/Red wire that powers the Acc Relay but is independent of the Acc Relay (you could even remove the Acc Relay and you would still have power at the blower). So, the only reason to check the Blue / Red wire at the ACC relay is to verify power, because that Blue / Red wire supplies power to the blower motor before it gets to the ACC relay. Gary S.

Not a stupid question at all Walter. I did check the fuse, as well as the fuses in the fuse box...all is well. I'm beginning to feel more confident that the relay is the problem. More on that later. Gary S.

Hi Stephen, PM comin' your way. Gary S.