EricB

I am going. Sennavsprost is going. Are you kidding? A Z Corral at LSIR? How could we pass this up? -e

thanks guys, the box has rubber insulators that separate it from heat sink betweeen engine and itself, further there's rubber insulators between the coil monting bracket and the inside of the box, and the box is shielded from the header then on top of that the engine would have new rubber mounts and the header is wrapped do you still believe heat/vibration would be an issue in this case? -e

Hi all, Would anyone be so kind as to give me WxLxH dimensions in " or mm of their MSD6 box? I am fab'ing an alum. box to go where the smog pump used to be - it will house the ext. coil right now and also have room for an MSD6AL box in the future... Thank you. -e

About the Diode: Radio Shack does not carry it MarVac does - their part number NTE506 costs a whopping $1.65 Fry's Electronics also carries it. About the alternator: The S130 pulley is no more than 1/16" different in diameter than the S30 unit. The difference lies I think in the Alt housing which does offset it a bit more from the engine. I tried to reuse the L24 fan/alt belt but it just wouldn't work - thus the S130 non-turbo one.

Thank you Carl - that's exactly what I was looking for! Perfect... You guys are a great help. -e

hmm... my reasoning behind it is very simply nothing more than to remove something out of the engine bay (ie v.reg) to make it cleaner in appearance. Yes it really is as shallow as that. So tell me Daniel do you know where I ought to be putting this diode? -e

I re-read Carl's (Bambikiller240) post on my other thread here in the Help Me section and he does briefly mention that in addition to doing the wiring thing you need to insert a diode. But he does not specifically say where or how? Are all diodes created equal? Do they have ratings or different sizes they come in? How do I describe the one I want when I go to Radio Shack and more importantly where do I put it? -e

I forgot to mentiom above that I did of course reconnect the T shaped two wire connector to the alternator as well as per stock...

So after the discussion we had here about swapping in an L28 LR160 alternator in order to do away with the 240Z voltage regulator I went to Zhome as instructed and followed the instructions word for word. THey are in short: Get LR160 (mine is off of an '81 280ZX) Get matching (longer) fan/alt belt Unplug v.regulator On the engine wire harness side of the v.regulator connector connect: _ the white wire to the yellow wire _ the black/white to the white/black _ and don't do anything with the remaining black wire. _ it didn't say anything about the condenser that was grounded with one of the v.reg mounting 10mm bolts so I left there - still grounded. reconnect the wires that go to the alternator as per normal, ie: _white/red goes to "A" ("BAT" terminal) _ black (ground) goes to "B" terminal along with the condenser that was there to begin with. I started the car and checked that voltage was not in excess of 15.0V and everything appeared fine... BUT: So what's my problem? I turn the key to the off position but the car continues running!! What did I do wrong?

yes the battery hold down is a classy one isn't it... hahha... thanks carl for the link i'll do the digging. and keith, no the car never had AC to my knowledge... i am looking for an exact match (wire color-wise) for it in the wiring diagram of the nissan '73 240z service manual - i'll let you know what it is.... BTW i found no mention of a seatbelt warning system relay in the above mentionned nissan service manual.... -e