jackboxxx

far be it for me to cry "offtopic" but.... :devious:

Well if thats the case, then just grab the paint code off the radiator support and order a can from towerpaint like Chris (26th-Z) said above. Pic of code location

The orginal Paint was: Amino Alkyd Enamel. Does your Z still have the orginal paint? If its been repainted, it may not be (enamel) anymore. if repainted, it very well could be a Urethane paint. doubtful its Lacquer unless you have a custom paintjob. Talk to Enrique hes pretty knowlegable about paints. Enrique or "EScanlon"

For compairsion here is the VIN stamp on a HLS firewall 1971 Z. Looks to be pretty close to the same location on either car. (just under that wire harness clip.) Looks like the car was repainted red? and they attempted to paint the engine compartment too, and perhaps "glazed" [bondo] over the the numbers prior to painting?

but but I replied to the other one! dump this one

Umm as I recall the aluminum horns that MSA sells are the ones for SU's, (they also have a steel set for triples i believe) anyways, for stock SU's 44mm should be the right ones. I went thru this trying to match up something for my bored out SU's, i even went to MSA and measured those aluminum ones, they measured a bit too small , like 41 or 42 mm ish..so I ended up going with the stock air horns...((thats why I could only send you the outside of the air cleaner)) I extracted the stock ones from the inside air cleaner plate because they measured out larger than the aftermarkets. I also was unaware that TWM made a set of 48's for our SU's, sigh...

vintage Japan nissans...skylines etc...for sale

Oh you were good good, I didnt want to hurt your feelings if you were serious about wanting that kind of cash for your baby. my wife would kill me at this point if i drug home another car

Any idea what the 810 sold for on ebay?

thats the clear plexiglass radiator/ with dancing neon effects right?

the rack itself moves side to side? or is the rack doing what its supposed to do meaning the steering portion of it is "turning" with the rotors as you turn them simulating the car turning? Is it possible you mixxed up the bushings? they are different sizes. and they sit in thier "cradle" a certain way too.

Theres a few things you can do to get rid of possible water in the system.. Use an air compressor to blow out all the possible affected areas, dist. spark plug boots (both ends) coil wire (both ends) the air pressure should push out most water and you can see the water run out (being pushed out) as you do it. a hair dryer can help dry up any areas that showed of having water. Are your vent tubes open on the top of your float bowls? if so water could have got in there too...which could explain why it started up for a minute then wouldnt start again. it would use the gas from the nozzle through the small fuel line 1st & start then suck the water in the bowl through after that, you could also have got a bunch of water in your air cleaner... as far as timing goes, get it to the #1 cylinder to Top Dead Center, (top of is stroke..you can feel / see this through the spark plug hole, and from the rotor pointing to the area of the cap where the #1 plug wire plugs in. if it wont start still you can do a basic timing for it with 2 wires and a small blub like a parking light bulb..solder or connect 1 wire to the bottom of the bulb (+ side), the other to the side of the base (- side) of the bulb. i use aligator clips on the other end of the wires, then connect the + wire to the points where the power wire is.. the other wire to ground...then slowly rotate the distributor till the light comes on. once it does, you are close enough to being in time, that it should start...then you can more finely time it with a light. assuming all the water is gone from wherever. before doing the timing, check for spark, from the coil...pull the distributer coil wire lay the end close to a good metal point on the car, crank it a bit, spark should jump to the metal point. i usually lay mine on the radiator support next to the hood prop rod base. then check for spark at a plug wire too..same process.

I used the same material that they use for making stereo face plate adapters, called polypropylene (its plastic), most stereo shops keep a few sheets around for this kind of thing. it will never warp as you see...and if you have black door panels its perfect. its easy to cut with a jig or scroll saw, and has a textured / wrinkled finish on one side and smooth on the other. umm depth im not sure on anymore, but i can pull one this weekend and measure it if you like. the only worry is the window guide i think. its funny my dad way back when i did these suggested I use masonite too...im glad i didnt. now that I hear your are warping im sure mine would have too. my son grabbed the stereo and cd changer..i have the bazookas w/ new kickers in them, and the seperates still in the old Z. but i have new equipment in my current Z.

I like the custom fiberglass look, you can mold it to look so nice, so if your up for replacing your panels that sounds like the way to go. I went out in the back yard and took a snapshot of my previous 240 door from 13 years ago...the owner before me had rudely hacked holes in the doors and installed swap meet cheap speakers, I was working in a stereo shop at the time, and I had to do something so i took out his speakers, made some inexpensive panels to completely cover the out of round holes he cut, and installed pioneer separates in the doors. bear in mind this a 13 year old installation so it dosnt look too great now(see pic below) Click pic for full size and proceeded to go crazy installing a bunch of stereo equip. I had: 10 speakers total, 2 in each door, (separates) 2 mtx tweeters in the headliner (surface mount) 2 6x9 pioneer 3 ways in the tool storage doors 2 6 1/2" bazooka tubes in back . 3 amps...1 under each seat, and 1 bolted to the flat panel behind the drivers seat 10 disc cd changer behind the pass seat, a 10 band sony xe90 pre amp eq and a ummm Awia stereo in the dash that controlled the changer. thats a lot of crap to stuff in a Z... ... but it sounded pretty damm good. JacK

aint that the truth!

amazing to watch!

Hey Derek, Ill try to answer what I can, and certainly there are others here that know more of the details I hope they stop in here to help you out too, 1st, based on what you say about the paint job, (removing all logos) theres a good chance that hatch you have is the orginal one...he probably just took those off too, and patched over them and painted..as for the lack of defroster elements, most of the old Z's orginal defrosters have worn out..the window elements...that is. Ive seen several people that have removed the elements completly from the window. you can check out your hatch more throughly, by looking for the orginal nissan marking on the glass, which could help in verifying that its not an aftermarket glass. look carefully along the top and bottom of the inside of the glass near the window seal..you may be able to see reminants of the old defroster markings. you can also take off that interior hatch trim piece and see inside for indications of the old vents. if you by chance found the hatch to be orginal but the vent holes welded up..you might just want to modify some vent pieces to just be like an emblem and attach it with doublesided tape. 2nd. Like Arne said, you can verify your vin on the firewall. its stamped into the metal, its unlikely the guy covered over that or anything else, and it would be the most accurate way to determne the true vin. (vin plates can be changed..though its very unlikely) then assuming your VIN is correct, your build date is April 1970. 3rd The engine # you have is from a 260Z or maybe even something (diff model car) being put out by Datsun at the time of the 260Z. There used to be or maybe still are "japaneze motor warehouses" where you would buy used japan versions of your motor. I did this a couple times in the 80's. I dont know if you can even get L-series motors used from Japan anymore. I dont know a lot about what else abroad came with the L motors, someone else could help out here more than me. ((got any pictures of the motor?)) and this guy says you have the orginal carbs>? for the L-26 still on it? if this is true...then you very well may have the infamous flat top 260Z carbs...(take a pic and post it here) you could benefit performance wise from getting a nice set of earlyer Z carbs... and be closer to orginal 1970 style too. http://www.ztherapy.com go to this website for more info and lots of pics of Z carbs. they do good work. hope this info helps out. go look at the Zcar registry (i left a link in my other post. to see when your car was built. JacK

you know how those 280 guys are (JUST KIDDING)

Heres a pic I found on the internet of where it should be on a 75z under that black panel...youll have to remove some 10mm bolts to get to it. found this pic at: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/ but im not the expert on 280z's so someone chime in if im at error here.

Ok the important question is, do you already have holes in your doors from previous speakers? If the answer is yes, then upgrading to some nice speakers like infinitys is a good idea. If your doors are orginal....uncut...then I would point you to a box or panel setup in the back hatch area. the MSA board is pretty expensive but fits pretty nicely in the area where the plastic taillight cover goes. It uses the stock locations for screwing it down and holding it in place. When i put mine in, i was worried about rattling or noises from behind there, so i used a few zip ties to cinch down the wiring harnesses and a bit of padding behind the speaker panel as well. id be glad to snap a pic of this setup if you like.

Understand that the load on the amp (the radio) will be greater doing it in parallel thus creating a greater risk of blowing the radio itself. If it was me, I wouldnt want to risk frying my 35 year old radio...i mean you will get a little louder sound by doing it parallel, but are you really looking for louder hissy AM radio sound? or are you trying to go back to OEM for the sake of your Z being more orginal? for me the answer was to put a stereo/w remote control and 2 speakers in back in a removable(2 screws and a plug and its out) "box" for decent sound, and leave the stock radio in the dash in working order maintaining the orginal dash look.

http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/classic.htm This is Carl Becks Register for the Z's, complete with who owns which #Z and how to contact them I just happened to have it bookmarked.

Yep Enrique you can add a speaker to the other side assuming he has the speaker grill holes. the orginal owner did it to my Z, using a factory speaker mount plate. I have a 71 with the "air" vents on the Sail panel so the speaker "grill" was there for my car, his 70 may or may not have it. As far as the wiring goes, If you wire it in parallel (meaning: you put both + speaker wires together and both - speaker wires together and connect them to the factory radio wires) . this way will put more of a strain on your old radio than wiring in series. If you do it in series you would do it like this: connect the + speaker output from the radio to the + on to speaker "A", then you connect the - speaker output from the radio to the - on to speaker "B" and you run a 3rd "jumper" wire from from - side of speaker "A" to the + side of speaker "B" there by completing the circuit.

The correct radio you are looking for looks like this one below.. My understanding is only a Hitachi AM Radio (not stereo) came with the 1970Z. Click the pic for full size

William, hmmm the price of a cheap new car seems a bit steep for an 810 for me at the moment. appreciate the offer though I was thinking more along a the lines of a local fixxer upper needing mechanical work for not too much cash Though listening to Steven, it appears they are in short supply..I wonder if many wagons still exist? Ive seen one of those nicely restored and it looked great.