240260280z

they all seem low... here are a few "gottchas" that get most first timers (including me): did you remove all 6 plugs before starting did you open throttle valve for each test did you crank engine over a few times for each test is your battery strong enough to crank the same is the test gauge calibrated or cross-calibrated are the valves seating well (check valve lash)

www.canadiantire.ca www.princessauto.ca

Late to the thread but rather than post a vid here to degrade the site, look up "ladysitter" on you tube.

Where are you in NJ? I am in Bridgewater at 287/22 if you ever need a hand.

I read it messes the threads if you don't un-stake them. If you have a dremel with a cutting disk it is not so bad. Use the 280zx nuts to replace them. No staking required. btw to respond to a query above. I have a hammer drill. I used it to drill pilot holes prior to fastening spikes in concrete. I may have used it on a vehicle once as an experiment.

Dealing with the public is always the same for any business....and the public is the public.Having a knowledgeable person, a "filler" person,or an automated system is the point raised in this thread. To me it seems that having no-expert-guidance at front end of the business is not in the spirit of business nor in the best interests of the customer. It is clear from this thread alone that MSA will trump VB/BD by anyone who reads it. I guess if the VB guy wanted to go the next step he could go offshore and have some poor underpaid, language-challenged, night shift worker try to do the job .... but other businesses have tried that and backed away following the problems with this cost-saving risk. After a while people start to open their eyes and see the crap....but sadly not enough.... they took the blue pill. However, the VB/BD owner could also assume that his customers are experts and therefore no guidance is required. If it was my business, I would make each employee buy an old Z, MG , etc. and restore it with parts at cost.

My understanding is that one should run the hose from the back of the head to the thermostat housing for best circulation when the head is getting hot but the thermostat has not opened.

MacDonald's staff? I wonder where the guy studied business? I can think of a few places with such business practices.

I agree with ignition module. Heat kills them over time. You can verify by watching the tach the next time it fails. If the needle falls faster than the engine revs die when coasting then it is an ignition problem. For a fix, I recommend this rather than buying a new module: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

In the front is best and having the control near the ebrake makes for an ergonomic racing set up. Have fun!

[h=2]Brake Line Drawings 1972 to 1978 from FSM's[/h]

It is in the photo I posted (blury) but it is the right most block that the lines go through before they hit the "T".

Phred, Before laying down $300 do more research. I recently was web researching a mix-up in a part in a Precision kit and I do recall a post about Precision supplying MSA, VB and Nissan. I thought it strange but it may be worth checking out...especially these days with monopolies, buy-outs, closings and diminishing competition. Could have been on Hybrid or Zcar or Classic or another Z forum.

Excellent question. Unfortunately I do not have the associated data for the configuration of the test bed... 6,4,2,1 paired webers? 2or 3SU's? I don't know. However the data was compiled from a renowned performance investigator named David Vizard so it was proven somewhere. Given this,the only safe assumptions that we can make is that there are differential differences between geometries and the absolute performance gains (according to Norm's drag strip HP improvements) can be extrapolated to be in the order of magnitude of the drawing above.

I used Fusion plastic paint on the centre console. The heater control panel was ok. For refreshing the heater control panel: Remove the wire control assembly in the back along with the knobs (screws underneath) then try cleaning yours with a scrub brush in the sink. Follow up with black marker to spot out the chrome flecks peeking through and use 3M or similar plastic polish on the chrome.

The electric PS bolted to the column on most econocars is junk... cars wander so much and very little dead zone. The only two cars I drove with electric ps (at the rack) were the NSX and S2000. I would like hydraulic systems to stay.

Thanks for clarifying. Unfortunately I have a terrible memory for details but I did read references to Mercedes motor design and Nissan in the past 8 years. In fact it stirred me in to searching for a few pictures of Merc motors from the 60's and I noted many similarities. (such as the valve train and timing chain and general motor layout in the photo above..even the spring clips on the rockers). I will keep my eye out for more substantial references and report back when I come across them.

Please correct me: I had read that Nissan had licenses from Mercedes for the initial design process they used and from SU for the initial carbs.

OK well the next step would be to check the joints at the steering knuckles, the rack tensioner, the ball joints and the bearings at the top of each front strut. Lift the front wheels off the ground and start checking. This is an easy first check: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/steering/racktension/

Brian, I think that if you do it and post some high quality vids on youtube, it could become a very popular reference for most car enthusiasts.... especially those with German I6's as the Z motor is a Merc descendant. Bring it to the 2013 ZCCA event too! I saw the old ford cutaway vid and wished the quality was better with more close-ups. but as mentioned above, hitting the crank with an electric motor and a cutaway would be easier (especially for shows inside).... heck cut away a manual transmission for greater observations and drive the whole thing from the drive shaft spline or crank nose. Just grease the parts that rub should be fine for room temp slow-mo demos... no need for fluids. Some of those fluorescent plug wire inserts to enhance the firing would also be nice.