240260280z

Drive until the needle passes empty.

It was probably filled with freon. I have seen similar but larger tubes for cooling transistors on audio amplifiers and on telecommunication circuit packs. Most thermo-mechanical devices on cars use bimetal. Maybe the fluid filled tube was more convenient than bimetal for connecting the two distant parts.

I believe P90 and 90a came with 280zx turbos. All 3 have same chamber design. P90a has hydraulic lifters for quieter operation. P79 has exhaust liners to shape the flow.

Why not shim the bushing with a wrap or two of sheet metal and stuff it in? The wrap of sheet metal should be wide enough to serve both sides.

I think the distilled essence is that small light sports cars do not need a lot of HP to be fun.... like a 240z.

No, it is not supposed to have fluid in it. ... but I think the o-ring in the centre contact is there for a contingency of a leak into the centre chamber. The "o-rings" in the "dumbbell" keep the right side and left side fluids from mixing. The dumbbell slides left or right depending which side looses pressure. The contact hanging in the middle chamber (not shown well above) touches the metal part of the dumbbell and shorts to ground through the dumbbell and turns on the brake warning light.

Switch to "Think like an Egyptian" mode.

"Some kind of attempt at feedback to stabilize the output air temp in the face of changing heater core temperatures?" I agree with your guess.

Think "investment" and you will smile.

I am lost. Is the capillary tube the long cable-like part that connects to the door?

btw that fuel line ran along the outside of the car to the fuel door then down into the fuel tank as the hard lines were plugged. It had black duct tape over it so it looked like a racing stripe.

I think he should have no problem selling many. The price is great and it is a part that slowly fails simply from ambient moisture.

Drain the tank and see what comes out. Also,don't rule out the distributor as the culprit.It can cause problems under load that seem like fuel. P.S. Here is no-load fuel flow at 3000rpm and 800rpm: I drove the car for 600km no problem.

I think as long as it is all metal and has the vins and period correct parts then you are good to go. Put a parts needed list up and lets see what the Z community can send you to revive that early car.

$1500+$1000 shipping will get you period metal: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/3080075306.html

I recommend calibrating it at 12V with a depleted battery or power supply which reads 12.0V on a DVM. Then check it with a 9V battery or variable DC supply for correct functioning.

I'll be back in Canada next Friday and will send you parts to help revive it.

Yeah a dumb Toyota side swiped it on a restart an it walled. A ton of attrition in the race so far.

For any winter car, you can block off the front of the rad and get a higher temp. thermostat to help stay warmer and faster. A block heater can help too.

Bridgewater NJ.

btw where are you in NJ?

Use the green 260z pic above and the asian pic to see how they fit. I would do the crossover for the centre console just before it enters. Never mind, I just found this pic and it is exactly as I guessed:

Looking forward to pics. Have a save trip back across the mountains. Here is a photo of #127 from a few years back (2007) during body restoration work. Our club member Michel Malenfant had to dig it out of the ice in Moncton. I think it is nearly ready for paint today.

I have read that many refurbished their switches. I had to use two to make one good one due to corrosion.

This is on an asian 240z.