240260280z

The oil only should be filled to ~ 1cm below the tube in the big aluminum piston. It just has to cover the plunger piston and everything below it. It will never stay filled to the top. If you over fill the tube, the excess overflows into the bottom and gets sucked out through the holes in the base of the big piston.

AircooledTech's Tools-On-The-Cheap - DIY Soda Blaster

www.86garage.com ? View topic - Weber Carb Cleaning Restore

Any tips on removing the accelerator pump rod assembly in SK's? It looks like a weber assembly except for the extra tab on the top that looks like it is pinned down with a peened rod in parallel with the pump rod? Parts 50 and 51 in the exploded drawing above. btw these carbs are almost at the point of a tough return... it takes a lot of coaxing to unstick some of the parts due to old gas, glue-like gaskets and corrosion. At least the throttle plates move nicely!

Data SK40 inlet dia = 43mm outet dia = 40mm TWM manifold inlet dia = 42mm outlet dia = 33 to 35mm (variable numbers.....could use a clean up)

Set your timing and jet heights after the car is good and hot. Besure to balance the air and fuel into each carb at idle and at 2,500 rpm. For cold starting, be sure to use the choke. Also make sure your TDC mark on the pulley is correct (get cylinder 1 at the top of its compression stroke then check the pulley marks). Some times the pulley separates and the timing marks creep.

I'm just a data geek at heart. I think it would be good for us to post all data to this thread. if you can scan the sk manual into a pdf that would be a good nugget'o knowledge. btw the more we enhance this site's content, the more people will come to it and in turn the more revenue for the admin. It is a good thing for all

What olzed said.

Copied from the net: The following SK Carburetor parts are interchangeable with the Weber DCOE carburetors: Main jets Air correctors Idle jets Emulsion tubes Pump exhaust valves Pump rod, spring and piston Auxiliary venturis (45 DCOE only) The following are interchangeable with Mikuni PHH late model carburetors: Pump jets (Mikuni calls these pump nozzles) Floats Needle Valves Fuel Union Banjos (I think Mikuni calls these Fuel Pipe Assembly) Another: I have a set of triple sk carbs on my 3.0 liter stroker motor and I love them.They have the same Idle jets,main,air,jets as the weber dcoe.The pump jet and needle and seat are mikuni parts.You can not get the main chokes and aux venturi in the USA any more.You might be able to find a used set .I had to bore out my main chokes to 34mm at the machine shop ( it was cheap though) I have talked to the people at twm induction (who supplied these carbs in 1992 (they were the biggest suppliers of these sk carbs in the USA they can still get the gaskets for these carbs.I ordered a set of these gaskets back in december and never got the gaskets but I was able to make my own.The guy I talked to told me that the SK carbs were very good carbs and easy to work on and he was right .He also said that these carbs were better than weber and as good as mikuni at top end .I had a set of 72 su carbs on the 3.0 liter stroker before I put the sk carbs on and the power was ok but I thought it needed more so I bought these carbs and now the power in unreal ! The idle sucked on the su carbs I would not idle below 1400 rpm and now it Idle perfect at 900 rpm (I have a huge cam 496 lift and 290 duration) The gas mileage has improved and I am very happy now they are almost tuned correctly . Another: Yes, that was the great compromise: the later style SK utilized the superior accel pump design of the Mukini, with the jets/emulsion tubes of the Weber. More like a racing version of the Mikuini (which the Weber was modeled after: the German Solex!) Webers just never worked right with that small pump they had, but the SK had a big shot when you mashed it, unlike the Webers. Just more volume for transition. That's why you can jet down Mikuinis and SK's and get decent gas mileage and still have a car that dosent't buck and pop in transition and light cruise. And by decent mileage, I mean 28MPG at a steady 65 from LA to Phoenix in a car with 1:1 top gear and a tight rearend! Weber just don't do that...

Just got a set of use SK Racing 40's... The PO has broken the inspection bolt off one of the progression holes....I looked at the remnants and it seems like there is some sort of substance between the threads and body? I am wondering if the factory use a sealant or if a wise PO used something like JB weld? Arggggghhh

I just put an Exedy in a 240z over a year ago. Works great.

I once spoke to a mechanic/restorer of vintage planes at the national aviation and space museum in ottawa that is into Z's.

It is the dirt-circle-track-biasing of light locations. Nissan had a go in the late 70's. Perfectly acceptable in NASCAR prior to the recent advancements of vinyl 1mm headlight technology.

Try an RB-26 motor FUJITSUBO LEGALIS R EXHAUST SYSTEM DATSUN 240Z 260Z 280Z S30 | Whitehead Performance

Springs were same L&R spring constants in front and in back but one spring was longer (+ more coil count) in the front to compensate for motor location weight bias. Look in FSM under suspension specs at end of each chapter to see this.

They have 94 octane at the pumps here in Montreal... F1 city it is!

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Oldies from 2004 http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/links/ 3.1 Stroker

Good stuff.

Just saw a stainless steel paint for appliances that may be tasteful or tasteless for this thread. The Official site of Thomas' Liquid Stainless Steel paint for Appliances – USA Also don't forget vinyl as a low cost alternative.