240260280z

Another good Weber parts vendor: http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/ Lowest price synchronizer tool too: http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Synchronizer_p/43-5712-0.htm And another: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advcat.asp?CategoryID=WEBERCARBNPTS

beautiful blue colour!

When you install, ensure that your linkage from the pedal does not try to turn the throttle valve plates past 90 degrees or you can twist the DCOE's shaft. The setting for the linkage should be that the pedal hits the floor just before the throttle valve plate is fully opened. Welcome to Weber.

I believe it can be seen in the last 3 photos. It connects to the damper that directs fresh/recycled air. Use the fan that is also inside that assembly for orientation. You can follow the cable in this photo:

It will be.

Interesting.I did not know the dash fit in a 510?

You have a hawk eye sir Arne Mitsu-Colt actually.... but I bet you knew that! Hopefully they will drive the 1000mi from NJ to NS where some wider wheels wait.... weird reverse stagger to the wheels. Designed to go backwards.

Picked up a car today: Stored most of its 37k.

I saw one in Monteral in '88 and one near my house in late 90's.

What if you just lower the jets and tune for ~ 14-15 at cruise... what then happens at WOT and idle?

Great to hear the update Billy! I hope to install MS one day! I'll pick your brain then.

But... if ZT proved the carbs then it ain't carbs.... good chance you will have a similar problem with any carb.

Is your battery and new wiring secure? Batteries can slide and short against the body.

Here is a great DIY adapting what I mentioned above:

WRT Modern Car "Audio": Quality of sound has flown out the door. When one doesn't care about quality, it is just stupid.

FJ Blue looks like 1990 Miata Blue.... kinda like it on miata and brit cars like TR5 but not on Z. Chrysler's Viper Blue and Nissan's Daytona Blue look fab on Z's Then there is the great "Stonehenge Midnight Blue" Or you can go for an early 240zblue which is between miata and viper blue

http://www.wired.com/autopia/2012/03/nissan-deltawing/

Here is a reference table with Bosch numbers I nabbed years ago: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/injectors.pdf

I would recommend a close inspection of all the metal and apply rust treatments where needed (especially inside the box section structures and brake lines). You may wish to spray penetrating solvent on any bolts that you plan to remove in the future. You can also paint or spray white lithium grease on bolts,joints,metal that needs protection from rusting. If you want a longer job, drain then drop the tank and inspect the vent hoses as well as the tank and sender and wiring. You can also disassemble,inspect,lube and reassemble your rear brake cylinders and shoes/springs.