madkaw

I knew it was a long shot-but I've been fustrated over this issue. Don't know if I want to drive it till it get's worse-especially a fairly new motor. Like you said it's not a huge job to change the gasket. When I get back into town Im going to look at it some more. I guess I will do another compression test now that I have green plugs. I have never seen fluid out my pipes like this before-I'm betting the gasket gave out. My Z hasn't given me a lot of fun this year:(

WOW, just priced a Nissan headgasket from Courtesy-150$$ I don't think I will consider anything else. I would love to find out that this problem is tied to my persistant oil leak at the rear main. I have changed everything and she is still pushing out oil. Could a leaky headgasket around the oil passage be pressurizing the oil?? I think in the end I will have concluded that I ran this engine too lean for too long with too much timing and compression-Compression detonation- hopefully I didn't do any damage

The engine just didn't sound or feel the same, maybe a bit lethargic would be a way to decribe it . It's one of those deals that I worked on the car to fix a couple of things and suddenly it seems different. One thing I worked on was mooring down my weak trans mount. My method of fixing caused more noise to transmit into the car(semi solid mount), so I experiencing unusual noises for the first time. The car ran decent, but didn't seem to have the POP it had previous. I will state from my earlier post that I haven't done another compression test since finding the "green tint". The level in the radiator was down a little-but so little it has me second guessing. I guess I was expecting something more defining from a blown head gasket. No overheating-not even close No detonation-that I could here No laboring from the starter-like my timing was too far advanced Always run premium

Not equipped for that test, but good idea

I know the description doesn't spell out blown gasket exactly, but the green tint on the plugs worries me. I've never seen my car put out that much condensation either. Maybe it's not fully blown? Not sure what else I can do to troubleshoot. I need to let the engine run again with the radiator cap off and watch it closely I guess.

:mad: Well I was all excited about the cooler weather and how well the car was running and then she started running kind of different. I pulled the plugs and #3 was about carbon fouled, but 1&2 weren't bad. So I whipped out the compression guage and all 6 were hovering around 180-looked good. So I'm thinking why would just one cylinder be rich when the other two on the manifold were decent. I had a spare set of bosch wires so I put them on and figured I would get some new plugs eventually. I swapped the #3 plug around to #1 so I could hopefully see if #3 would do that again. I also changed around by O2 sensor to the other bank of cylinders to see if I had them running fairly close. I took the car for a long drive and she sounded a little better , but still not right. I get home and pull the plugs again and see no carbon fouling, but a green tint on the foward 3 cylinders-dam. I take the radiator cap off and start it up and see a few bubbles, but I thought it might be from the thermostat just opening. I walk around the back of the car and there is water spitting out the exhaust. I guess the perplexing part for me will be WHY?? Has my engine been detonating all this time? I know I ran it lean for a considerable amount of time because I didn't realize it was that lean. I guess when i pull the head off ,I will see rest of the story

If you have the head off, check out the thread on Hybridz covering different heads-they have pictures!

There is ton of info on this site and Hybridz on this subject-what info have you found by searching? If it's a l24 block it should be marked p-30. What year e-88 makes a difference too. The early e-88s are good heads-but how much compression do you want to run? What gas are you going to run? That cam won't allow a lot of compression on today's premium gas. 200HP is a reasonable goal and there is a large thread at Hybridz right now covering this. The power is mostly in the head and lots of tuning. Probably tuning more than anything.

Walter, that's exactly what i was doing at first. I was watching my wideband run into the high 16 area and as I pulled the choke it came back down. Like you I had been playing with the mixtures to get it right for this hot summer and boom the temperatures drop out. It took a full half turn to get the car to a power mixture. No regrets on installing the wideband-except not having one for each pipe:)

It's fun watching the wideband guage as the weather changes. Here in Indiana we just went from super hot and humid to 65 and no humidity and I watched her run lean. I have always kept it on the lean side, but WOW she really went lean this week. I fattened her up a good half a turn on the mixture nuts and boom -baby, it was a different engine. This to me is all the justification I need for all the work I'm putting in on my CAI for my Mikunis.

Might be a bit late for this reply since you have taken all of it apart already, but this trouble shooting method worked for me. Maybe once you put things back together you can test for leaks. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?40902-Raw-fuel-smell-FIXED&highlight=fuel+smell+fixed

You could lighten mine by taking them off my hands;) Good advice above^

carl, who is doing your engine work?

I agree with Steve- of course- because his name is Steve and his set-up is similiar to mine as far as muffler and resonator-I just have two. Don't know if I would make anything different about the sound. I think the header makes the biggest gain in noise level.

Thankyou Arne, sorry I put down missleading info. My car use to be an auto, so the number stuck I guess. 3.36 -that's some tall gearing!

I kind of figured a 3.54, there wasn't too much variance in the r-180. Watching your gear selection it seems your 2nd gear is good for 70, kind of like my 3.54 with my wide ratio t5. I thought the 3.36 was only in the r200

RATIO is what I was looking for-thanks

I'm liking this thread! Steve, what diff are you running?

MSA ceramic coated -unequal length header 6-2 into two 50mm pipes then into crossover pipe back out into two 18" resonators and then onto two 12" magnaflows. All mandrel bends. Engine is the mighty L24 as in my signature.

It might be Arne, and at first it drove me crazy wondering if my new engine was detonating. I am running the shortest magnaflow they sell and it's only 10" long

Thanks for the reply Arne. I was wondering if you could here the fact it was duals. Did you listen to it with speakers on your computer? I have seperate speakers on my stereo and I could here both pipes. My exhaust also has what I call a cackle from the rear that could be thought was valve noise or pinging. I thought some tip resonantors might mellow that out, but you have tips??? Maybe it is a different sound we are comparing.

Exhaust is a one -off design by me. It is twin 50mm pipes with a crossover pipe. I was going to ask Arne if he could decifer the fact that it was two pipes by the sound of the video since I am also running magnaflow mufflers. I had promised many folks that i would post up a video sometime so they could hear a twice pipe set-up. Yes I was waiting for someone to comment on my permanent smile on my face!! You have to have a pretty powerful stereo to overcome all the noises-exhaust,wind,ect..., but it is tolerable for a hot rod. NO REGRETS

Work to the music!!

It don't get better than this-day-off from work and beautiful day for a z ride! Please ignore the 3rd gear grindLOL yo2M0F0DCVI

There is a ton of info on this sites and others for adjusting float levels, but basicaly the lid on the float bowl has to come off and you bend the tab that rides against the needle and seat(like most carbs). Note the level of gas when you take the lis off. The float level is pretty cruical on this carbs for proper running through out the power band.