madkaw

That’s a 73 heater panel that had the backlighting

Doing my own wide-band tuning today . Two are better than one !

I’m running this - https://zcardepot.com/products/flywheel-lightweight-competition-clutch-240z-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=356fe798b&_ss=r It was more being able to machine it for my CAS . The cool part about this flywheel is that it can be used for 225 or 240 clutch . It is also 13lbs, so a little more mass

Leaking around the injector body itself ? Surface of mating surfaces were so rough that the dry seal wasn’t sealing ? vacuum leaks get everyone . You seem to know what your doing , so you keep pushing on . You might even get brave with timing 😉

I get it . But I would make sure all aspects of advance are in order .

It WOULD affect off cruise accel. Especially a lean mixture . You could try playing with ignition timing . The problem is if you raise idle timing it might add idle speed . if your engine has some miles on it you could advance valve timing to #2 . You would be surprised how it adds torque .

You are also running vacuum advance and know it is working ?

Can’t use a driveway cruise to verify much . No load condition at 3k would probably cause a little popping since you leaned it out . What’s - WOT AFR now ? What is your timing set at? Premium gas ? What octane ? How did it feel accelerating off of cruise ? I would richen the idle enough to have control of the idle . Have you double checked for vacuum leaks ?

Cruise should be a lot leaner

What year ? How are you tuning your enrichment or are you just verifying numbers . Probably a non- quench head like 75-80 it will be better to be on the safe side . Without full control of tune - fuel and ignition - its tough . Flat top L28 you could can do better for sure .

What engine ? What EFI ? Not enough info . I run 15.5- 16 at cruise with 45 degrees timing Idle as lean as I can 13.1-2 WOT

I feel your pain . I have been dealing with neuropathies with no known reason . Sometimes it’s a struggle to get through the day let alone work on the Z . I hired a young man who is eager to learn to help me out . I’ve decided I can afford to pay someone else to help limit my pain. At the same time - working in the z can be a nice distraction from the pain . I feel fortunate that I can still get around as well as I can , but at 58 I expected I would be able too. The pain can be mentally challenging and makes me want to give it all up . If I knew working on my car was the cause of my pain I would probably let it go after 25 years . Pain can be a big motivator . Hope you find resolution

Industrial Plating Inc Lafayette Indiana . This is a pic they sent so I haven’t seen the stuff in person . Here’s a pic of what I sent them from my last plater

I just sent some out! My first plater sucked so I found another one . These folks look like they did better . Can’t wait to see the stuff in person . Quick turn around too!

Don’t think you can go wrong with the MSA header - it’s been the same design forever . Thick flange . NOT equal length , but that doesn’t amount to much as far as performance . My MSA does a good job keeping heat in the header with the ceramic coat . I don’t like this mismatched port shapes either .

I’m running a Kameari oil pump with no issues . Pressure and volume is quite a bit more than stock . Idle pressure is higher . You can’t trust a stock gauge , it reacts to slowly

Hole 3 significance ? Racer Brown? @siteunseen You would have to trick the EFI to give more fuel . Also have to trick the ignition not to time in too much or kapowy . Probably one of the worst heads for this scenario - pistons go without saying .

Don’t even know what to call the part , but it’s cracked and don’t know how important it is . Can I used an earlier metal bushing ?

Good advice Captain . The finger tight caps can be an issue

Question : did this cam turn freely in this head before ? Did you mark them before removal in order to get them back in proper placement? Have you checked the head for flatness ?

I wouldn’t be concerned about the second ring being a little oversized . Conventional thinking has changed about the gap size on the second rings over the years . Now the engineers like to see a larger second ring gap to make sure pressure doesn’t build between the two rings and cause ring flutter . I didn’t have as good of luck with my oversized rings . The box oddly said STD- .010 . The gaps still came in too big . Sounds like you have a winner !

I have also heard of his technique of using .010 over rings . I believe machinist told me that the one size over would still be concentric enough to do that . It takes quite a large gap before it starts affecting CR . I thought there was two specs . One was the range for the gap and the other spec was replacement range - like .039 or something . I ran large gaps on my last L28 build . All the rings were at the far range , but I ran it . Id say - send it

Straight vinegar . The pump helped by keeping things stirred .

Distilled white vinegar and a parts washer pump

maxima vinegar soup