madkaw

I have not , but own a 83- 720 and have rebuilt it . It’s as easy as you thought. Stub axles bolt in . Pinion flange probably needs to be swapped . Studs on cover should be in the right place

It is indeed the same R-180 used on the trucks and cars . Swap flanges and go . Good thing is that diff has probably hardly used , and there are some nice low gear sets to be had . 3.90, 4.11, 4.56 if you drop the front diff crossmember complete with diff attached it will hang of the studs on the moustache bar . Just make sure you break the torque on the moustache bar first . Loosen those nuts to within just a few threads of coming off. Transmission scissor jack from Harbor Freight really helps here

No - they were right , but a 40 year old pump is what it is . My Walbro is in the tank and it’s not too bad noise levels . Plan on spending about 250$ for a quality pump that is quiet

Why would mess with an original old pump when you have all that time invested in your motor ? I would invest in a good pump !

Armature is getting worn - it’s warning you REPLACE ME !

Exhaust isn’t loud enough . You are running the original pump?

I hope you plan on dyno testing that thing ! Your car looks fantastic . Very nice work . Without going thru the whole thread , does this thread show how you did your fusible links ? My buddy getting ready to do a Megasquirt on his 78 , which is much different than my 71.

The owner is a stand up guy that does a lot zinc plating that he sells . I’ve done business with him - very professional . 80k - mine is going on the market

Have you read this thread https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/42960-triple-mikuni-thread/

That might buy you more room . Make sure #1 rod is TDC and out of the way to help clear crossmember

Don’t remember leaving any gap - I wanted it clamped down .

I remember reading about these and never replaced mine on my car . The issue for me is that I can remove the seal and the door closes perfectly and is aligned nicely . Put the seal back in and the door has to be slammed and it pushes the door out . I spent countless hours with my original precision rubber seals. I shimmed, adjusted , oiled, altered the catches . I thought it was my door . Put Kias on and blam- everything works fine .

I still get a thud unloading the drivetrain at low rpms in a higher gear . I still dance with the clutch to avoid the thud and I have the sandwich set up . Sometimes I think my r-180 moustache bar is not up to the task of 230 ft pounds and posi tract rear . I’ve about given up trying to figure it out what the noise is . I can drive my car hard and never hear a thud , but under certain circumstances i get a distinct thud . If I cruise around 40 mph in 4th gear and keep the throttle steady and push the clutch pedal in and out , it will thud every time letting the clutch out . That’s releasing the clutch swiftly . Granted - I don’t drive that way - but wonder where all that movement is

Yes . The seal doesn’t want to squeeze down at the top of the door body . It also binds on the forward part of the door .

My first run of precision seals ? - No - they never broke in . That’s why I wonder if 10 years later it’s the same thing . Like I said - the Kia seals were an immediate transformation . They have never leaked either . That’s why I say it’s a design flaw and not just needing to be broke in . It’s hard to pass on to a customer to let their door seals break in - just slam your doors for a while . I’ll see how Vintage does .

It was many years ago that I used a Precision weatherstrip kit on my Z . I remember how the door seals just didn"t work. You had to slam the doors and they didn't want to break in . I eventually went with Kia door seals , but they discontinued them. I thought that I had read more recently that their design had changed and folks were having good luck with them. Well I just received a full kit and the door seals still suck. Same deal-doors have to be slammed against the hard rubber . I just ordered the spendy Vintage rubber set -hope I'm not disappointed again.

I don’t see how the journals polished out . They would have cut to clean up the scratches in those pics . the scoring behind the water pump is not part of the head . That’s the timing cover that will need to be replaced . you need to find out what you have before you spend money on junk . Find out how thick the head is and if it’s flat . Then a pressure check . If the towers are bad , it’s probably because the head is -or was warped . Not sure I would cut any more than .080 . Shameless plug . I do have a p90 for sale that is shaved and ready to roll and it’s shaved .080 - with good towers ! Just PM me if interested .

I would suggest getting another head . You are going to have a difficult time reinventing the wheel . You should be able to measure head thickness . Making your own bearings ? In all the years in these sites I’ve never heard of anyone putting bearings in the cam towers .

That doesn’t look good

Why the line bore ? Can you swap out towers ?

You want to stay internally oiled . No difference in metallurgy . Get a good big cam and have fun

I don’t understand the cam oiling issue ? You should be able to re-grind the cam that was in it .

Appreciate any insight

I called , but they are out of the shop until the end of the month