Daniel

Finally someone shows an engine! Great job!!By chance does your valve cover read "nissan 2400 ohc"?If so, very rare.I have a 73/72carbs etc.I hope to have photos online very soon.I also believe if you can 't paint it,rub it till it shines! daniel

You're assuming that the gauge is correct.I have seen dirty oil/oilfilters cause that.Also the oil sending unit (which is screwed into your block down below the spark plugs)gets old/worn/plugged up.It gives false info to the gauge.To test the gauge disconnect the wire from the sending unit and use alligator clip jumper or such and ground the wire.Switch on your key. The gauge should go to maximum and hold there.If the gauge doesn't go max or doesn't hold max let me know and we'll discuss gauge repair.Sending units are cheap and easy to swap.Have fun!! Daniel

Sounds like a blown fuse.I once installed a napa remanuf. alternator and had that problem.It was defective.If your fuses are good you may have a burnt/bad fusible link.Always replace a fusible link with the correct part NOT a piece of wire.

So Han-Eric your saying that seeing sweden by train and then touring it for 16 hours in a restored 240Z is a bad thing????Oh,I believe your trying to make us jealous! Welcome! DanielLOL

Now that you understand rust/electrics etc. I would add find a car that runs and is driveable.Once I found a 71,no motor. Iwished and wished the guy would sell it to me.I had a motor. Well,I got it.Bad relays, bad brakes,power brake booster,heat fan,radiator.What wasn't bad was not working due to inactivity as the car had been sitting for 3 years.I learned the hard way,be careful what you wish for and get a car that moves!!!It's also more fun to drive one at least a little during the resto.Dragging one home and feeding it money and time for years without even a taste of fun gets old fast.There are reasonable priced driver out there.Just don't get in a hurry.Each one you check out makes youa little smarter next time.And that my friend will save you time and money.

Check your voltage reg. connector.Mine looked good but had a bad connection on the solid white wire.Thats the one that turns the voltage off to your battery when fully charged.Check continuity thru the connector,allwires.Wire around the connector if bad.Your battery is questionable now.Replace it when fix is made. Daniel

Kmack did an excellent job of the various Zcars.If Imay add the 260z came in a 74 and 74 1/2.The 74 was more similiar to a 240,carbs and small bumpers. The 741/2 is closer to a 280.It has fuel injection and large bumpers.Myself I prefer the 240.They are easy to work on for "shadetree" fixers.The 280 with the Fuel inj.sensors and computer run well,run long but,are hard to work on at home.Have Fun!! Daniel

The longest most expensive /most problem to replace/one that causes the interior fuel smell is the one across the back under the rear panel that hides the taillights.I was told once that that hose was a calif. emission thing .I don't know if thats true.Anyway I removed mine and plugged it off at the tank and the exp. tank.The tank is taller on the fuel inlet side.That hose is on the low side.Any air would go to the high side.My 73 has been without that hose since 1976.I would use all three of the other vent connections.The tank is easy to remove.If you do pull it out may I suggest go ahead and have it cleaned out and dipped.Then you will never touch it again.

Don't confuse the silver thingon factory exhaust manifold as a heat shield.It's job is a heat collector to provide warm air to your carbs.Thats why that hose hooks to your air cleaner bottom.You probably would want a shield attached to the carb intake,its cooler than the Exhaustand the air gap between exhaust and shield helps also.Bad coil,maybe .but my experence has been a intermit bad coil ,stops working till cool. Have Fun!!

I haven't a clue what a "dizzy"is but can't wait to learn.The factory settings are really a best generic guess for all the plus and minus that the factory produces.Add age/wear or different parts to that and the standard is no longer.I suggest getting your car up to normal operating temp and find what it likes.Of course the basics,carbs set,valve set,points set,spark plug set,good wires,dist cap,etc are needed for optimum performance.Then plan an outing for the day and tweek as you go.When it feel right to you ,well thats all that really matters isn't it? Merry Christmas! Daniel

You need to ask a local expert about emissions.They are obviously different everywhere.Example,In North Carolina whichever is newer has to subscribe to those laws.So a 73 car with a 85 motor must have 85 emissions.What ever emissions came with the car must stay on the car.Crazy rules.I also have a 1946 chevy truck.It is factory no nothing.I have added brake lights.Each year I pay 15.00 to hold my left arm out the window and do the manual turn signals(remember those from driver ed?)and honk the horn.My tax dollars at work.

The vapor lock is caused by the exhaust manifold heating up the fuel in the carb. bottoms.You need a shield between them.I made one from aluminum.On the intake there are 4 threaded holes just waiting for a shield.The foil type insulation wrap was a datsun attempt to cure vapor lock.The problem is that it acts as insulation until it finally get hot.Then it acts as a blanket that holds the heat IN.They also tried adding electric fuel pumps as a recall item to cure this.The shield is the fix. Daniel

The L28 280z type alternator is the same as a L24.It just supplies a higher ampere charge.It has external voltage regulator.The L28 280zx type might be internal.A dealer/auto shop has the equipment to check either.If yours is internal it's a swap unit deal.If external it will be a square forward of the battery,near the trouble light.Check the connector.If all is well,replace the regulator.I must assume yours is almost 30 years old,It can't hurt.The regulator monitors the battery and switches current to it when needed to keep it fully charged.Yours is not switching off.This is boiling the battery.It is dangerous/explosive.Your battery is now of questionable dependability.Wear a face shield when you replace it.Abused batteries can do unexpected things.Let me know the results..Have fun!

It may not be the voltage but rather the length of time the voltage is supplied.The voltage regulator is what switches the voltage on and off.If its good ,check the connector that the regulator plugs into.Find the white only wire(others are say white with red stripe).Make certain you have continuity across the connector.That is the switch off wire.A perfect regulator will overcharge the battery without that connection.One batteryand one voltage regulator later---I learned the hard way.

when the dealers had that problem they would put it on the lift and use a long extention and unscrew the latch from the hood.

Dale if my memory is correct it mounted in the bezel face slightly above the stock radio

Lets call this rumor or fact,you make the call.There is a rear tranny mount .It is a rubber sandwich.They go bad from normal stop and go as well as the leaking fluid decreases the life of the rubber.I have heard that if replaced with the solid "racing part' it rides real rough.The snap sound when starting out is normal Z.I replaced everything in the rearend and still have it.I was told it was wear in the axle splines.When removing any of the drive/axle shaft mark how they came out.They are balanced at the factory to minimise vibration.Never reuse the nuts,bolts,washers that secure the shafts.The bolts stretch,thewashers don't lock.Make sure the bolts are all the same.You want uniform weight /balancewhen they spin.The leak may have been the rear tranny seal.Easy to fix.Drop the driveshaft pop out the old,in with the new.Make sure the driveshaft piece that goes into that seal is smooth.Any rust or roughness will eat the seal as it slides in/out during normal use.

Hi Mark,.I like the kyb.I ha dthe same thoughts as you.I wanted a fun driver.My thoughts about the adjustable shock were like anything else with adjustments ,you find one position you like and never touch it again.Urethane bushings all around.The quickest and cheapest positive result will be to replace the steering coupler with a ABSor urethane .Thats the doughnut in your steering link just below the brake master cyl.Next best thing for me was stainless brake lines.I highly advise take off the valve cover and check /replace the oil tube that runs along the cam.On 2400 engines there are two little square boxes with gaskets on the oil tube.They split causing uneven lube on the top end.This was the slow death of many 2400 engines.Its cheap and easy to do NOW.Oh yeah,I was told once do what ever you want to a 240 under a shade tree ,but don't even think of replacing your own struts.To that advise I fully subcribe. Daniel

The frame rail rust is bad news.Most had bad frame rust under the battery tray.It starts from batterys overflowing acid.That drain pan and hose are very inportant.Odds are your floor pans are gone also.There is a tar like coating on them.One I redid I thought there was a small hole.A close look showed big problems.All AC was after market for 240's.Even"Factory was add at the dealer.There was no special ACdash.Soundslike you have a parts car or a body work lesson in your future.Perhaps you could find a rust free/better shell and swap parts over.Have fun!

316 lbs. Daniel

Dale has you on the correct path.Ihave had the bad plug also.Check your distributor cap and remember plug wires can leak current across each other thru induction.Try to make sure your plug wires aren't touching each other at the distributor cap.Once I had to replace the distributor cam(the part that your point ride on and your rotor attaches.It was worn and allowed wobble.It caused timing drift as well. Daniel

keith,the 70,71 Z's have what they call a 3piece tranny.the 72/3 have a 2 piece.Myself the 3 piece has always felt sloppy,even with new bushings.Also the 73 is the only year with a lighted heater panel.there are two 74's.these are the 260 models .The 74 is kinda like a 240,carbs, bumpers look the same.The 74 1/2 look more like a 280 these are fuel injected and have the big safety bumpers.Also the 70/71Have manual adjust clutch slave cylinders.The 73 is automatic adjust.Ithink the 72 is auto as well.Happy hunting---Daniel

Mike,The last one I bought was about 8years ago it was 1100.00.When I compared that to the cost of parts/machineshop/downtime/headaches not to mention no warranty when the job was FINALLY complete,It wasa darn good deal.I don't know of a website but there may be.No shipping charge!They deliver to your door you give cash or certified check.The engines are remanuf. in japan they don't want yours.It was something to do with japan emission control or something but their cores are less mileage than ours to start with.They also have trannys.Call the number I gave and they will send you a book.They have lots of import engines not just nissan.I have never had ANY problem from the engines I have purchased.I love easy.I love dependable! Daniel

Matt,So begins "hours of enjoyment".Not knowing how deep you were going to go into your engine,my response may be over kill.I have had much success with a company called ATK.They ship a 280 motor fully remanufactured to your door/no exchange.It comes witha 12/12k warranty and of course for a fee can be extended.I have bought 3(all for different Z's)and have found it to be cheaper/less headache and faster than do it yourself.Not only do you pickup horsepower using the 280 long block but you also get rid of the oil tube that is the death of alot of 2400 motors.The 280 has oil passages in the camshaft.Use a 240z gasket for intake/exhaust this covers the holes that the 280 uses for fuel injection.I'm a 73Z running the '75 280 with 72carbs/polished intake/header/aluminum flywheel/euro distributor(faster advance curve)It's faster than a speeding ticket!!haha.VERY DEPENDABLE!Of course if you want matching numbers or have a friend in the machine shop this may not be for you.ATK calif.1-800-421-3726.I did have to move the piece at the front of the cam that works the mech. fuel pump over to the 280.Your point distributor works fine also.It's SOOO easy! Have fun!!! Daniel

The 240Z came stock with a mechanical fuel pump.Later as an attempt to stop vapor lock problems an electric pump was also added.I have had many Z's I have never had an electric pump.The mechanical has always done well.I have had to clean and dip the fuel tank and replace the main fuel line from the tank to the engine compartment(not an easy job).I have seen dirty/incorrect air filters cause the problem you spoke of.They idle fine but can't suck enough air under load.You can try without the filter as a test only. daniel