acceler8

Location is now 30056 (Newborn, Ga). Price is back to $6,900.

Summer sale! $1,900 off!! New price is $5k

Location: Loganville, GA Zip Code: 30052 Sale Price: $6,900 Bill of Sale Required: Yes Willing to ship: No If you ever wanted a gutted 240Z (for fun) but hate the idea of stripping an old/valuable/somewhat rare car, this is the deal for you! To be fair, I removed 95% of the interior back when 240Zs could still be had for under $1000. This car provided tons of autocross fun, back in the day!! Build date 09/1971, currently registered as a 1972 model. *The car is running and driving, but I wouldn’t trust it to travel, so a trailer is required. It does drive well enough to get onto a trailer. From my research (I’m no expert so please do your own research if you are interested) this is a transitional, series 1 car. Series 1 were the first cars off the line, and are highly desirable. Series 1 hints include: vertical defroster lines on the hatch glass, non-Series 1 seatbelt pockets but uses the older series 1 style lap belts, and the Z emblems on the rear quarter panels have vents to the interior (non-series 1 had no ventilation). The good: • A real 240Z, that’s running, for under $10k! • Mileage: 643 (it’s rolled over, actual 100,643 – or 200,643???) • Holly Blue fuel pump (mechanical pump deleted) • Ground Control Coil Overs w/ Eibach springs • Energy Suspension full polyurethane bushing (front and rear) • High duration cam (forgot the brand, lost the specs) • Distributer points replaced by optical trigger (Crane Cams) • Electronic Ignition module (Crane Cams Fireball XR3000) • Full aluminum aftermarket radiator (Brand unknown) • Custom (Volvo) electric fan (mechanical fan deleted) w/ manual switch • Corbeau racing seat (but it has mouse holes & mouse pee on it) • Stainless Steel brake lines • New rear drum brake shoes and hardware • New Brake Master Cylinder • New Clutch Master & Slave Cylinder • New Spark Plug Wires • Both carburetors rebuilt with new parts kit • 4 new tires (crap brand, but new) • Car is currently registered and insured (which will make the registration process a little bit easier) The Bad: • Rust, everywhere • Frame rail fix on front passenger side • No title, Bill of Sale • Cracked Windshield • Aftermarket pedal covers that don’t quite fit right • A fuel filter that’s known for burning down cars (replace this ASAP) • The fuel cell is not strapped down (which is very dangerous) • Paint is awful (and non-original color, was Datsun orange originally) • I attempted (poorly) to spray over some of the rust on the roof (using high quality SEM automotive paints). It went so bad, that I abandoned plans to do the hood. Included: • New water-pump (thought it was bad, but it was just the belt tension bolt missing) • Full rubber door/window/hatch replacement kit (new, uninstalled) • Sat unused for 10+ years (only recently gone over enough to get it driving) • I have the 240Z logo (that goes on the rear hatch) not photographed • Cheap plastic side mirrors • Front Grill (not photographed) Options (Not required, the car has both carbs and a hood): • I have a 2nd set of round top SU carbs (off of a ’73 240Z) with the intake manifold that I’ll let go for an additional $400 (these go for $700+ on eBay) • I have a 2nd hood (which is in a little bit better condition, but is red) $100 So, it kind of sounds like I’m dumping on my own car here. This is unusual for someone trying to sell said car, right? Why would I do this? Well, this is an ambitious project car, and will take serious effort to make road/track worthy. The last thing I want is for someone to get in over their head, and have buyers regret. I am being as brutally honest as I can be. Just because that is what I look for when I am on the buying end of the deal. I am listing this in multiple places. So be aware that the car could be sold before I have a chance to remove this listing. I’ve got no time for tire kickers. If you show up without cash and/or a trailer, I won’t waste either of our time. Only serious buyers will be entertained. I will accept a cashier’s check, but you won’t get the car until it clears my bank (which can take several days). I’m actually super easy to deal with, but I also want to limit the potential for scams. Thanks for understanding! 😊 Disclaimer: I am selling this car as-is, with no warranty and I am not responsible for future repairs or any issues this project car may have. HOW TO CONTACT ME: I am only accepting text messages at this time @ 678-505-7866. If you call, you will get voice mail, and I will not call back (or even listen to the message). I also may not reply until after 6pm or so (depending on my work situation). I will read and respond to any text messages in the order they were received. Sorry for not being more accommodating, but this is the way. Thanks for your understanding! I’m happy to answer any questions in this thread, too! Some short videos: Startup: https://youtu.be/TDq4P5EcycE Up Hill: https://youtu.be/tZsKd_xfZjQ Down Hill: https://youtu.be/DxEDQgfXhkY More & Full-Sized Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/kQVPseBdMcVR3Wua6

Capital DOH! I changed the latch mechanism on my '71 240. I test closed the hood, 1/2 way and the latch seemed fine. I lefty it barely bolted in, so that when latched it centered itself. Then, in an act of pure stupidity, I shut the hood all the way. The latch works great. Too well, in fact! No, I can't open it!!! HELP, how can I get my hood open? The cable just seems to be stuck:( I have pulled on it with all of my might, and it didn't budge... Any idea?

Wow, that is a major project!!! I bet that puppy will scream when you are done!!!

Well, I have a new Z car with very little rust except for the passenger side frame rail. It is a '71 240Z, and is very cool. I am concerned about my repairs to the frame rail, but I plan on testing it completely prior to driving on the street:-)

Help! I got my E-88 head back from the machine shop the other day. Instead of having a nice clean shaven look, I got back a dirty head and a box of parts. The water passage near the #1 cylinder has corroded, and is into the head bolt passage I think. The corrosion has not penetrated to the combustion chamber, but is quite close... About 1/8" or so. FYI, the #1 cylinder was where the L-24 blew it's head gasket. The machinist, who was actually a Honda Acura specialist said that he might could weld it in, and then mill it down, but didn't recommend it. Is this head worth saving? I would love to keep this head, because for some reason I have grown attached to it:-)

Hi all. I am new to the Z community, as I have just purchased a 1972 240Z that is quite the basket case. It is all original, but has much rust, and a blown head gasket. At least I got a good deal... $300 for the whole thing, and it would still run, and even idle!!! I have the head off now, and am getting it machined smooth. I plan on just getting it running for now, and then tweaking it later. I can't wait to learn how to tune and set the round top SU carbs!!! Here is a question. What type of welder should I get? I would like one that is 110V, if it could handle body welding, and perhaps some frame welding... 208/230V would be ok if that is what it takes. I have not welded in 10 years, and then it was only arc welding. Should I look at a MIG?