e_racer1999

if you get ztherapy's 240z tune-up video he covers remounting the choke lever in great detail (as well as a bunch of other useful stuff) i highly recommend you get that video

the only reason i was thinking of going stainless was cause my dad has access to it... ya, so more than likely i'm going with the kit....

nah, it's 1.5 feet... crazy huh? well, i'm either going to get the floorpan kit from one of the various internet sites ($250 - $360) or work with my dad to fabricate a stainless steel floorpan and frame rail set... then, of course, i will POR 15 and rubber coat the bottom (and top) i was just hoping to save a wee bit of money and do something that wouldn't take up a few weekends!

well, i was reading through MSAs specials book and i came across this. since i have about a 1.5' rust gash in my pass side floorpan, i was considering getting this as opposed to getting the replacement floorpans (i don't have a welder). anyone ever used this? also, i'm gonna post a pic of my floorpans to see if it would be pointless

jeez, i'm on a roll! thanks

hmm... i don't know what's going on, but take it easy. i appreciate all of the 411 that you gave me

^^ so do you have the square header on your round port head? how well is that working for you if you do, 'cause that's what i plan on doing (round head, square header)

that's what i'm wondering! maybe it had something to do with a bigger area for the brake lights....

looks nice! i'm going to have to tackle that project soon enough..

ya, it took me a while to figure that out... i always wondered why my car never FELT bloated.....

also, i thought i read somewhere that the N42/N47 heads had some of the best shapes of the combustion chamber, allowing a better combustion

have you checked out victoria british's prices? i think that they have better prices than that. i'll let you know when i get home to my catalog, or someone else will post first...

^^ah, a good question... you would have to notch the head for the injectors, and i don't even think it has holes for the injection manifold. i think that getting the E88 to flow as well as the N42 (with bigger valves, plumbing for FI) would be more work for you than port/polishing the N42. if i were you i'd save up to get the flattop pistons... that would give you a higher CR and you wouldn't have to worry about the extra headwork.... JMHO

i like that idea.... it would be a good alternative and a good investment -jason

i personally like the spook, however i have also been considering the "plain" air dam that has been posted except with the cooling ducts

180 or 200? what ratio?

sh!t, if you make repros, count me in!

thanks guys, i think i'm going to go to autozone tomorrow...

thanks for the input! after i watch my newly acquired ZT vids i'm going to investigate! btw.... the hatch area hurts the neck...

yes i'm referring to my 72 and i do have SUs... i just set my timing yesterday (you won't believe me if i told you it took 1.5 hours and $36 to change my timing!) and i haven't had a chance to "open it up".... i'm going to start a thread chronicling my events from yesterday so i'll keep you posted... anyway, thanks for the ideas!

my car pulls fine through 1st and most of second, but if i'm under load or in third gear my car starts missing at around 4500-5000..... i'm guessing it could be the timing, but does anyone have any other ideas?

old thread! is that the adjustable FPR for carbs in the VB catalog? if it is i was thinking about getting it.... (not trying to hijack your thread)

^^maybe that's what i read... i just remember reading something about the 72 being the first year for the tank.. perhaps i misread it... i stand corrected

they should be. the body was unchanged, but the only problem you MIGHT encounter would be the latching mechanism