Bambikiller240

Ah, OK. I was typically "pipe dreaming" before I listened to Dr. Demento. Does that make me a "Herbivoir"?

Yeah, RAIN-X is good. Some Parts stores carry RAIN-X Windshield Washer Fluid (for your washer bottle) in addition to the regular RAIN-X liquid. The RAIN-Xwasher bottle fluid is good for a quick refresh on the fly of the RAIN-X protection of your windshield.

I dont know what Casey said (I never paid any attention to him) Yes, I'm sure ethe "herb" comment was in reference to the "pipe" dream. Still, I'll ignore the "herb" comment

Gavin, It's not going to be about the motor, rather it's going to be about rebuilding/servicing the mechanical parts (operating rods/joints, wiper pivots, etc.) The motors seem to just keep on ticking.

My rebuilt system is installed and operating. One pivot was so dry of grease and corroded that I could only barely rotate it by hand when disassembled. I cleaned and lubed everything, replaced the felt washers and rubber pivot isolators, and pivot boots, then reinstalled it all and it works great. Wiper motion is faster than has been since I bought the car 6 years ago.

I'll ignore the "herb" part , but I don't get the Casey Kasem reference either.

I believe that you have to get a R200 mustache bar from a 280Z to do this.

Ther should be more than photo's there. Lots of information too. The (Dennis) aka Rough Idle Cheat Sheet doesn't seem to be there.

Not a bright idea to be roasting the tires when you have really loose steering. Steering shouldn't be loose, something isn't right say WHAT ? ? ? (see previous quote above). At least it was only your pride this time. Next time you might not be so lucky. No one crashes on pupose. i hope you are wrong, but......... I don't feel so good about you driving it either. B E C A R E FU L ! ! ! ! (dammit!)

The correct P/N for 240Z door weather seals are 76802-E4100 and 76801-E4100. I have the seals in the OEM Nissan Bags right in front of me. Purchased from Courtesy Nissan in Richardson, TX. These are the exact Part Numbers specified in the Parts Microfiche CD 76921-E8700 and 76920-E8700 are listed for 260Z (production date starting 8/73 G6921-w600 & 76921-E4101s do not appear in the Microfiche for 240 thru 280Z production $32 is a extemely cheap price. I would be astonished if the are OEM and correct for a 240Z. FWIW, many after market companies use what they believe are OEM part numbers for their own aftermarket parts. I'd bet a dollar the parts you were offered are Precision Replacement Parts brand seals and NOT Nissan parts. JMO

Dave's ISP has moved several times since this data was originally made available back in 2002. If someone hasn't seen this stuff and wants to, perhaps an inquiry PM to Dave will clear things up as to whether it is still available. I don't see him listed as viewing the CZC site much these days.

FWIW. in spite of the current opinions (which can understand) on the color, they were quite common in the 70's, and they worked great to protect the carpets which were not very durable if you wore boots etc.

If I had money I would be. Unfortunately it's a pipe dream at the moment.

The drawing looks very nice, but to my eyes it doesn't look anything like a Z or a ZX (with the minor exceptionof the taillights).

Slow wipers are more likely to be caused by the grease in the Wiper Pivots drying out and corrosion setting in and causing a bind in the mechanical part of the system. I just rebuilt my entire Wiper system this past summer using advice posted here from EScanlon and that is exactly what I found. I have lots of pictures and a Tech Article in progress to eventually post.

Steve: Are you SURE these were made by Datsun? These are almost identical to mats that I purchased back in the 1974-75 era for my first 240Z (Persimmon colored body). My set had "Datsun 240Z" embossed on the black area of the floor mats and were definitely not a factory item. Stuff like this was commonly available through aftermarket sources due to the considerable popularity of the vehicles back in the 70's.

In 1983 a former neighbor of mine put up For Sale a 2 Door - 1971 Datsun 510. He had rebuilt the drivetrain, suspension, and it had a nice interior, etc. It was advertised at $2300 obo in the local paper. Since I knew the car and had drooled over it when we were neighbors, I immediately called and offered him the $2300. He indicated that he'd had little in the way of calls in the week it had been for sale, but he wanted to wait until the 2 week listing in the paper ended before agreeing to sell it. I asked him to let me know when he was ready to sell it. To make the story short(er), he was unable to contact me at the end of the classified ad due to my work schedule and before I could get ahold of him ( about 2 days later) I discovered the car pulling into the driveway across the street from my home. My new neighbor had bought it for his girlfriend and paid the guy $2500. I called the seller and he explained that he'd tried to contact me to see if I was still interested in the car, and planned to sell it to me, but my new neighbor had come to his door with cash in hand and bumped my offer by $200 and he couldn't turn it down. It's not always about being willing to give more than the seller asks, but rather to outbid another interested buyer in an "o.b.o. battle" for a desired item. (Missing out on that car is a sore subject in my home 20+ years later)

On underside of the Inspection Lids. (The ones you open to deal with the battery or clutch cyl / washer bottle). On EARLY Z's these plastic catches secured the lid in the closed position. Later 240Z's had metal catches in place of these.

Here is a LINK to the Auction. Attached is just the picture. $203 USD worth of plastic.

Do you mean the inspection lid clips? (I found the auction and picture, sadly I don't have those) I too feel for Burt, but the market is what it is.

....like we need a bullet hole in our collective forehead.

My interpretation is $xxx.xx or best offer PERIOD In other words whatever he can get. Most buyers I run into will state this type of thing and entertain offers for a period of time, and the highest offer gets it. Usually it will end up being below the price stated, but really, do you think he would turn down a higher offer?

It's not an Anniversary Edition either. Sounds like a candidate for the parts that guy who wanted to put a 240Z front clip on his ZX "SHOULD" be looking for instead. The seller sounds like a nice person who has been fed a truckload of B.S. about this car by someone.(her son who dumped it in her yard and split)

They are not cheap to maintain, unless the car you buy has been completely rebuilt. In which case it won't be "cheap" to buy. It's doubtful your neighborhood mechanic is going to know much about them. Some parts are getting hard to find. Face it they are 30+year old cars. Things wear out. You don't say where you are located, but Bill is right; they rust badly if not cared for (like not being driven in snow and salted streets). If you need a daily driver and have little money you'd be better off with something else. Wait until you have more money, basic automotive skills to work on it yourself then get a Z as a 2nd car so you can work on it in your spare time ans still have something else to drive. Looks like Alfa caught up to me while I was editting Yeah right. IMO without a minimum of 2-3 YEARS of safe and varied driving and education on how to properly control (and regain control) of a car; it is EXTREMELY unlikely that you are even close to ready to handle a sports car. Your experience with the Eclipse is what confirms this.

Tell that to Burt Diamond. He's been trying to sell his car for about 6 months. The high bid gets LOWER with every auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4504443135&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT Then there is this recent auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4505345559&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT