Bambikiller240

kats: Thank You So Much for all of the information that you are giving to us!! I look forward any additional information you are able to get permission to post, and to the continuation of this thread by all who have information to share. PS: I KNEW the steering wheel had to be made of "wood AND plastic" (having broken one in an accident and observing the interior structure). It looked like wood that had been soaked to the core with resin or plastic. You could see the wood fibre, splinters, etc.; but it was not "plain, untreated" wood internally.

ROFL LOL :stupid: :stupid: Oh,....... I'm Dying Over Here!!!!!!!!!!!!

My understanding of the discussion is that (E) includes both HLS30 and HS30 for EXPORT (i.e. not for the Japanese domestic Market. ) Someone correct me if I'm out to lunch here.

For What It's Worth

So I just include the data within the "code" tags as you did, correct? You are speaking to a computer (semi) illiterate person. i.e. what I've learned has been 99.9% trail and error. Thanks for the info. If I have misunderstood, please correct me. Thanks!

Hi Mike: Yeah, that's what I thought. So I didn't go that route. $86 seemed a bit more than I thought a battery powered quartz clock was worth. I got a 280Z Quartz movement that was installed into the 240Z housing using the face and hands of the 240Z (Jeco) clock, so it looks completely normal from a 240Z perspective. Keeps perfect time too!

Check with Danny's Datsuns or Eric Neyerlin's ZParts one or the other of these folks should be able to help you out.

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz (Not that Enrique isn't correct on this, but I learned this stuff in a trade school and did well with "calculating on paper" what happens if E, I, or R increases, or decreases; but as soon as we hit the real world I become lost. Pardon me if I go back to sleep while the folks who can troubleshoot discuss this) :stupid:

Please don't take the discussion "off-line", we won't fall asleep. Delving into this can be enlightening for all so long as it stays a respectful and doesn't become personal. (and I'm sure neither of you would do that) Share what you can with us. Thanks to both Alan T. and Carl B. for sharing information with the club!

I retained my ballast resistor when installing the Flame Thrower coil. I do not know if it can be eliminated, but unless you are racing, my opinion is that removal doesn't make for any appreciable improvement in performance, so I choose to leave it alone. just my $.02

I bought a clock on eBay that was a 240Z clock housing and clock hands and face, with a Quartz 280Z clock mechanism installed behind the clock face. Keeps time like a champ and looks exactly like it should for a 240Z. Got it for under $40 to boot!

On the Home page, left side, in the Main Menu Module, click on 240Z Mailing List.

If it's just loose you MIGHT be able to tighten it through the coils of the springs, BUT, if it the problem is like Tanny mentioned of the KYB supplied gland nut not fitting correctly, you'll have to break out the spring compressor and remove the spring and replace the ill fitting gland nut with one that will fit (or follow Tanny's method of creating spacers to make what you have work properly)

My bet is on the gland nut being the problem. I would be AMAZED if the mounting insulator was the problem. (It could be, but I doubt it) Spring seat can't "wear out", but the welds could break, but again I doubt it.

According to Nissan Motors - as stated in the "DATSUN 280ZX" book published in 1978 by Nissan Motor Company. This table represents "units produced" within each calendar year - not units sold during the Model Year. ie. 500 240Z's were produced in calendar year 1969, however they were for the most part sold in the North American Market as 1970 Model Year 240Z's. Likewise there were aprox 10,500 1970 Model Year 240Z's sold in North America, the remainder of the 1970 production were sold as 1971 Model Year 240Z's. (the next Model Year cars, were usually introduced in advance of the calendar year here in the U.S. ie Sept./Oct. 1970 introduction of 1971 Model year cars) ***********USA*****Canada****Australia*****Great Britain*****Others 1969--------------500----------0----------------0---------------------0-----------------0 1970----------16,215-------1201----------- 319-------------------2-----------------3 1971----------33,684-------3440------------894-----------------264---------------89 1972----------52,628-------4020------------362-----------------549--------------494 1973----------45,588-------2537------------783----------------1,114-------------430 1974----------40,172-------1370------------442-----------------129----------------1 1974 2+2------9,499--------766-------------599-----------------320--------------153 1975----------40,216-------1153------------198-------------------20---------------23 1975 2+2----11,594--------329------------742-----------------139--------------493 1976----------45,766--------876------------385-------------------00---------------07 1976 2+2-----13,792-------351-----------1615-----------------444--------------454 1977-----------54,594-----1005--------------98------------------312--------------63 PS: Boy, I sure wish Mikey would allow ".doc" attachments. Formatting tables like this by hand/eye is extremely tedious.

Regarding the SU's shown, You'll only get the two Carbs for $595 + $150 core charge. The Manifold, and balance tube, and linkage shown in the picture will cost you $150 + $150 core charge more.

A Good Point, but I can tape the races if I choose to attend an event, I can't get out of work (or I wouldn't work ANY Saturday). Sadly, until they do the show on a Sunday, I'll never be able to attend. PS They found a way to have it on Sunday last year, and I attended and got a MR. K autograph PPS Bambi was "STUPID", I did the deer gene pool a favor.

Can't make it. I wish they'd take a lesson from Motorsport Auto and schedule these things on Sunday. Some of us have to work on Saturdays.

Cool. Yeah, they won the race in 75. Brock Yates recently wrote a book on the (infamous) "Cannonball Sea to Shining Sea Memorial Trophy Dash's" run in the 70's. It's light reading, but I enjoyed the tales told by the participants.

It is quite common for the 240Z style "Precision Products" door seals to make the doors difficult to close. MSA sells the Precision brand seals for 280Z's (the one with the bands attached). The OEM door seals were still available from Courtesy Nissan in the Fall of 2002, I bought a set. They do cost more than the Precision seals, but then again they also fit better too.

SN# 62150 would not be a 1970, it would be a 1972 240Z (manufactured around 1/72).

Agreed. Yeah, he didn't bother to mention the kind of car he's working on (except inthe subject line which I didn't look at either). I just remembered what car he has from previous posts about his floorpan repair saga.

to add to Mark's comments: Riviting in floorpan metal might actually keep your feet in the car, etc HOWEVER, if you get broadsided like our member "thefastestz" ; the car will likely fold up like a crackerbox, and then you'll wish (if you are still able to do any wishing at that time) that the structure had been more soundly repaired.

I think it is a very bad idea. You won't have anywhere near the strength of welding, PLUS vibration will (over time) loosen the rivits and you will end up with even less strength there. I would also think that successfully sealing the whole mess permanently will be another problem. This area of "ok metal......but not all that great" should be removed and replaced. You are talking about a structural part of the chassis. The floor pans do not "just" keep water out and your feet in the car. They connect to the rocker panels and to the firewall and to the transmission tunnel, and to the rear chassis panels to form the lower body structure. Strength here is vital to the safety and longevity of the car. Just my opinion.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by Zedrally Why bother Alfa, you don't have a Zed anymore. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- True, but if you don't own a Z, then we don't particularly WANT you to procreate. (Joking on another level here too!)