Bambikiller240

I just received Rick's invitation to read this thread, and wouldn't you know it...........Enrique (EScanlon) and Keith (2ManyZs) have just about summed up my opinions on the situation. Between : the wankers who don't know or care how a vehicle should be maintained the wankers who believe they are "mechanics" because they can read a computer screen or error code device telling them to replace "this" or "that" and if that doesn't fix the problem, "replace something else" until the code goes away, or the wallet runs dry. the wankers who think they were put on earth with a license to "mine" the public for profits based on un-needed / unwarranted repairs [/list=a] the real honest to gosh "Master Mechanic" has largely disappeared because he cannot compete and make a living by using his skills to diagnose and problem and fix it, charging only for the small individual part (and the labor to replace it) that was the cause of the problem. To meet the business overhead (pay taxes, employee wages, benefits, equipment costs, rent, etc.) most automotive repair businesses must spend a minimum amount of time to diagnose and repair (while still charging "the specified labor charge in the flat rate manual ), and they must sell a significant amount of parts (at a high profit margin). Other automotive repair businesses use the additonal tactic of diagnosing and repairing problems that do not exist, or creating problems that require a more costly repair that what the car arrived at the shop needing. These folks depend on a segment of the public needing their cars fixed, and fixed now; since they need it to get to work everyday. They have no time to argue or shop around for a different diagnosis. Add the ignorance of another segment of the general public regarding the ever more complicated systems in modern cars to the equation too. They have to trust someone since they have no knowledge of the car themselves, so they are easy prey to the "wolves". Sure there are many "American buyers" who are maintainence ignorant, but many more are tired of being treated like they are a natural resource to be "processed like cattle to create profit" for less than honest auto repair businesses. Between these two groups of consumers, a significant percentage of the population cringes at the thought of taking their car to a shop for anything, and will put it off until it cannot be put off any longer. We, the folks who expend time and effort to understand and maintain our own cars are (increasingly) a rarity in modern US society.

I'm not waiting 30 years to say it! " another blasted sunroof....bah!" PS: Looks like someone left a cafeteria tray on the roof!

Whoa fella, you're reading way too much into what I said. I was just asking what you meant by "in better condition than that". Since the auction indicated it was a new badge being offered. No mocking was intended "Gladys". :cheeky: It's nice that you are (or were?) offering your spare badge to Gavin.

Heck Yeah! Grab it while he's offering it!

You have one in better condition that a brand new one?

Whew, your silence of the past few days had me worried. I was under the car for several hours yesterday and searched high and low for something else that fit the specs you had posted and the grille was the only thing I could find that had rivits, steel, aluminium, and stainless bolts. So,, is my "prize" in the mail?

Bravo, "Alain". I wish you had Mr. Rumsfeld's ear. (actually I wish you had his head...in a box....in the freezer.)

There is no doubt that the "original" Minilites were Magnesium, but even in the 70's Minilite (which ever iteration of the brand that existed) was making and selling both Aluminium and Magnesium versions of the classic designed wheels. There were also many companies that made their own copies of the design.

Thanks Gavin, I did see that, but I thought there was more to it than that. That IS funny, but (to me) it's not "fall off my chair funny" or all that "priceless". Different strokes for different folks, I guess. :stupid:

SO, how come it doesn't work for me? When I do the search on French Military victories, nothing is found. OK, I see the humor in that, but what has Dwight falling out of his chair, and what does George find so "PRICELESS"? Is there something more that I'm not finding?

But, that would be cheating, wouldn't it? (jk)

Rolf: On the www.google.com webpage you will see the search box where you type in the words "weapons of mass destruction". Right below that search box there will be two buttons to choose from. The one on the left says "Google Search" and the one on the right says "I'm Feeling Lucky". The buttion on the right is the one to click. Carl

That's a good one George. I suspect that the US will find those weapons soon. (as soon as we can manufacture and plant them!)

Which parts are you calling "rollers" ? 240Z seats have mounting tracks that are of a "slider" style, and attach to the seat supports with studs and nuts. My early 1972 240Z came with reclining seats from the factory. Also, though I haven't done it myself, I have a friend who installed seats from an early 260Z into his 1973 240Z and he says it was a straight bolt on with no modifications required.

Been preparing the passenger side floorpan for POR (inside and outside) Stripped paint off last week, Marine-Cleaned and Metal-Ready applied today. Friday, 2 coats of POR15 inside and out. Saturday, apply ChassisCoat Black inside and out. Sunday, rest and get ready to assemble rebuilt L24 engine.

Here is a diagram of an installatiopn, and a picture of a set of what you need for a complete set of end links. You need: 8 bushings (rubber or polyurethane) 8 cupped washers if using polyurethane bushings The images below show polyeurathane bushing kits. Courtesy of http://www.energysuspension.com/index.html

Not on any of the 3 - 240Z's that I've owned. The 3 nuts that mount the down pipe to the exhaust manifold flange have been 14mm stainless steel hex nuts, and the nuts and bolts that attach the intake and exhaust manifolds to the cylinder head have been 12mm hex nuts/bolts. Per Z Car Microfiche CD: Nuts (manifolds to head) = p/n 08911-10810 Nut - Hex Nuts (Ex Manifold to Downpipe) = p/n 20600-87100 Nut, Fixing; Tube End (these are Stainless Steel Hex nuts)

19mm Wrench required for these.

Gavin: I finally got to view your FLASH website. Nice work. It looks really good. It didn't take too long to load. Maybe because I'm used to my 56K modem connection?

Yeah, definately rare for shipping costs to be quoted. Nice to see that some company has balls enough to publish that info. (I wasn't trying to slam you post, as I'm sure more than one person will be interested!)

But what size wrench did you need to use for the bolts? I think that is what we are talking about here. FWIW, check out Lawson Products next time you need bolts or nuts. I've ordered bolts and nuts from them that have the correct hex head size (even MM sized, i.e. 10, 12, 14mm etc.) and they seem to have many if not all thread pitch variations available as well.

and trying to get parts for it in the US will probably be B I T C H !

The grille?

Minilite did make some of their wheels in Aluminium for road car applications. BTW, the Magnesium wheels are also brittle, and can be porous as well. Where an aluminium wheel may bend, a "Mag" wheel can CRACK or SHATTER.

While these may be "unusual" sized, they are still "EVEN" sized.