Bambikiller240

Dave; Did you delete the Thread about the 500 Megs of Z car stuff? We are getting inquiries from several people who wanted to read the thread as it was recently brought to the top of the list. At this time it seems to be gone from the Tech Articles forum. Regards, Carl (Bambikiller240) Tech Articles Moderator ClassicZcars.com

Hi Dave: I forgot to mention that these ashtrays pop up on eBay (the USA site) periodically and sell for serious money when in very good condition. I've seen several go for well over $100 USD. All the Best, Carl

Why couldn't regular Di electric Grease (probably spelled wrong) work for this? AFAIK, nothing is going to protect the plastic from deterioration (it's not really corrosion as stated previously) caused by heat.

These ashtrays were not made of metal, let alone metal that was or could be chromed. They were made of some sort of pastic or bake-lite type material.

They show up on eBay occasionally, but I don't know where you can get them in NEW condition. You might check with Motorsport Auto in LA, CA www.zcarparts.com as I think they sometimes have used ones for sale. Another place to check is to email Andy Russell z@datsundude.com I think he can get them too. Good Luck!

On the back of the wheel cylinders and calipers. Congrats on getting your Z! Next step is to purchase Repair Manuals. If you have the money a Factory Service Manual is the best one to get, tho it is not cheap (approx $75). IMHO the Haynes (brand) manual is the next best and can be had very cheaply (under $15). These manual will answer so many of the questions you will have before you even need to ask, and will guide you in repairing and improving the car for many years. Worth the're weight in gold! (well, almost anyway)

WE will be the judge of THAT! :devious: IF we're ever given the opportunity. Does anyone live near the Pup? Maybe someone who can snap a candid picture in a compromising situation?

Mine wasn't meant to be good or bad. Simply meant to show a total lack of interest.

I saw that story today also; and it did indicate 5 dogs per month. Yes we are culturally different. I saw a documentary about 6 months ago showing the capture of an approx 30 ft. Python and it was all that 3 experienced snake handlers could handle. I would not want to get this fellow pissed off.

That's a Mr. Miserable Failure President bio. Actually he ISN'T a Miserable Failure, but I think they were aiming for a Family Audience and couldn't use the correct term for GWB

Chloe....................????????

No

I believe that you are correct Victor. I don't think it matters much though, unless one plans to built out the motor to a high horsepower monster.

Hmm, I don't know what could be wrong. It is s simple system and a simple (2 wire) install, as you can see from the instructions with the Ignitor and the diagrams provided by Pertronix and on the site here. I would think that it has to be something simple that is being overlooked, or something in the OEM wiring on your car not being the same as mine. It would be really unusual for a person to get two Ignitor units that were bad from the factory, so at this point I'm at a loss to explain why you are having theses problems. Do you have a digicam to take and post pictures of the install?

It is amazing how far things have come I would have preferred that also, but I *think* that the octane rating of our gas was dropping at the same time and MAY not have supported that move They must have figured that the Americans always felt "bigger is better". I guess.

Good deal, that's what you needed to do to know how they fixed it.

Playing devils advocate, I'll ask if they pounded it out (mostly) or filled it to the brim with bondo.

I've seen 280Z's with that color of Yellow, but I don't recall seeing 240Z's in that color from the factory. Does anyone know for sure if that is a 240Z color? mperdue? bueller? bueller? Anyone?

You're welcome. I'm sure others can jump in and answer in more detail if needed. BTW, racers seem to like the 4 screw round tops better than the 3 screw ones, but either type is better than the flat top ones in my opinion.

I am not sure when the 4 screws stopping being used from the factory, but I believe that it was sometime in 71. Three screw round tops were standard on my early 72 (mfg'd 11/71) Flat Tops began to appear in the USA on cars mfg'd after 6/72, which were mostly sold as 73 models. $150 is good money for unrebuilt SU's. I'd take the $$. If you are getting an L24 motor, I (myself) would be more concerned with the mileage on the motor rather than the year of mfg. Dude, it's bad form to use ALL CAPS on these forums. It is considered as SHOUTING, and is frowned upon.

That would explain the $$$ paid for the carbs. They are the 70-72 SU's. Evidently someone retro-fitted the car with the better carbs before you acquired it. It would be pretty amazing for Flat top carbs (standard on 1973 Z's) to command $150.

It sounds like you had the unit installed correctly. Were you able to measure battery voltage at the end of the ballast resistor that you connected the RED wire to? Have you tried to start the car with the unit installed? I never tried the static test that you have been doing, but I've been told that he pertronix should fire without regard to RPM so it would make sense for the fluctuation you mention to occur when rotating the magnets by hand. I'm just not sure about the diagram showing the black wire connected ONLY to the volt/ohm meter (in other words it NOT being connected to the NEG of the battery. I dunno. I'm no electrical whiz, I just followed the directions and it works great for me. Have you tried to start the car? or are you just relying on the test to confirm if it works or not?

I would think that Nissan did what they could, given the time frame they had to work with. It certainly was not in their best interest to make a car that did not perform to the level of previous iterations of the Z car. I do think that the anti pollution laws did put pressure on Nissan to complete development of the EFI, so in that regard the laws did spur some performance gains (arriving in 75), but 300 bhp was not seen on a stock Z for quite a while after the 73 era smog laws began to choke engine performance. Nixon himself had little to do with any of this, he was consumed with deceiving the Justice department in order to keep his job as long as possible. IF the government ever starts encouraging higher horsepower or performance, I'll SHOUT their praises from the nearest mountain top.

You are th one who equated anti smog laws with 300 bhp, not I. I equated the smog laws with the advent of the boat anchor carbs. Those laws and the boat anchor carbs took away performance of the Z cars.

When saying "fried", do you mean that actual smoke came from the unit, or it caught fire, or ? Not sure what you mean about "I have tested both units with the battery and ohm meter scheme of rotating the magnet in the unit but the both stayed closed..." Can you elaborate? I haven't done any "testing" other that doing the install and starting the car and driving the hell out of it. You have disconnected the original black wire from the coil? and also at the distributor? Removed the points and the condenser? Connected Pertronix RED to the 12V side of the ballast resistor? Connected Pertronix solid BLK to the coil where you removed the stock solid BLK wire (NEG terminal)? That is really all there is to it in terms of wiring. Without doing any testing, have you actually tried to start the car?