Bambikiller240

By 75 Nissan was installing A/C at the factory for cars destined for the USA. In 71, they were not. any 71Z w/ A.C. had it installed by dealer or otherwise aftermarket. I have seen stickers that were at least similar to the one described and agree w/ 26th-Z that it sounds valuable to a restorer and a unique part of the history of 240Z.

Yeah, doesn't look too bad, for that price.

SOmebody will get them. If I was closer, I would.

If you ahven't done so yet, you'll want to read the Caig wesite www.caig.com before you buy anything. D5 won't clean corroded/dirty terminals, it's for maintaining clean or cleaned teminals. D100 cleans terminals The other products have their own specific uses

Honda Magna wrong year, but you get the idea.

you beat me to it!

I don't know if it applies here, but I've always been told that you should not mix Petrolium greases/oils with Synthetic Greases/Oils.

Enrique shared a good idea with me when I rebuilt my Wiper System last summer. Clip an old fashioned wooden clothes pin to the wiper pivot post when you are ready to test the wiper movement. They will illustrate the movement to ensure it is in the correct direction without (possibly) sacraficing your cowl and hood.

Lance: I agree that POR should be applied after welding. I cannot see any benefit to applying it before welding. Sturdy welds are foremost in my mind as well. Does the weld through primer remain after welding or does it burn off in the process leaving just the zinc?

This show will again be on The History Channel in the USA tomorrow SATURDAY APRIL 23RD, 2005 AT 7AM PACIFIC TIME ( 10AM EASTERN TIME)

It used to be (at least it was a couple 2-3 years ago). I'm not sure if it still is held there.

Could you please post it in Word please. I don't have MS Excel at home. Thank you.

Lance: I'm not a welder (unfortunately), so maybe this is a dumb question.......but since POR must be in contact with seasoned (rusty) metal. or metal treated with "Metal Ready" (phosphoric acid), wouldn't the "weld through primer" be a problem, since it would/might/could (?) prevent the POR from contacting the metal that it must contact in order to do it's job properly? Just asking. Carl

I know, Will. I just wanted to be sure that any newbies reading the thread wouldn't faint thinking that the quoted prices were "per unit" pricing. I want one of those "galss" bottles. Do they come in Redhead? I have room in the garage!

Never tried installation on a "sideways" Z. I just laid rags on the bottom of the well to protect the paint on my "right side up" Z. Don't think I or anyone else was calling you or your methods dumb.

These would appear to be prices for CASES rather than single, individual containers, but yes it illustrates that there are large size containers available.

It's not the body lines that makes the difference, it's the locking mechanism No one said that. He's looking to use early 260 (same as a 240) doors on a 280Z

But, But,. But, it has "240" and an "X" in the name...........................aren't they all the same?

Early 260 doors would be the same as 240Z doors. I doubt they'll fit.

Will you share the prescription with us as well as her contact info? It would be nice to have that as a reference material.

"this is off-topic" AND Yawn, yawn, yawn Back to Z's ! !

Yep. BTDT. Isn't necessary, in fact it would be a royal PITA to have to do that. Whe removing, undo the screws that secire the wiper pivots to the chassis, push the pivots down into the well, rotate the the pivots (BOTH) inward toward the center of the car. Remove the bolts that secure the wiper motor to the chassis, then move the whole assembly (motor and pivots) toward driver isde of car (HLS30-U) until you can lift passenger side pivot and motor upward, now start pulling the assembly up and back towards the passenger side until it all comes out. "Installation is the reverse".

better save two for yourself. They don't grow on trees you know!

I try to crawl under there after work and see if I can find that wire on my 72.